玩具火柴枪做法

合集下载

折纸加特林的方法

折纸加特林的方法
折纸加特林，也叫折纸机枪，是一种手工制作的玩具枪。

制作方法如下：
1. 准备一个方形的纸张，建议使用8x8厘米的正方形纸张。

2. 把纸张向下翻折一半，压出痕迹后再展开。

3. 将左右两边向中间对折，再展开。

4. 把纸张向下翻折一半，压出痕迹后再展开。

5. 把纸张的四个角对折到中心点，再折一次。

6. 把两个侧边向内对折，再向下翻折1毫米，这里稍微有点难度，需要耐心和仔细。

7. 将纸张向上翻折90度，把下面的角向上对折。

7. 把两个侧边向内对折，再向下翻折1毫米，这里稍微有点难度，需要耐心和仔细。

8. 把旁边的角向上对折，形成一个小三角形。

9. 重复以上步骤，制作出另外三个小角。

10. 将两侧的小三角形向内对折，形成加特林的枪管。

11. 完成！您已经成功制作出一个折纸加特林玩具枪。

提示：为了达到最佳的折纸效果，可以先在草稿纸上模拟几次。

橡皮筋枪制做方法

橡皮筋枪制做方法
1. 准备材料：一根长橡皮筋、一根短橡皮筋、一根笔（或者其他长形物品，如筷子等）。

2. 将长橡皮筋与短橡皮筋交叉，将短橡皮筋的中间穿过长橡皮筋，然后将两端各绕一圈紧扣住短橡皮筋。

3. 将一端的橡皮筋拉起来，将笔夹在长橡皮筋下方，使其成为弓形。

4. 将弓型橡皮筋的末端固定在笔的另一端，也可以用胶带来固定。

5. 用手指捏住橡皮筋的底部，将其拉至合适的张力。

6. 将子弹放在橡皮筋的中央，松开手指，橡皮筋弹开，发射子弹。

注意：使用橡皮筋枪时必须注意安全，不要对人或动物进行攻击，以避免意外伤害。

皮筋枪的制作方法

皮筋枪的制作方法
制作皮筋枪的材料和步骤如下：
材料：
1. 一根长约20厘米的木棍作为枪身
2. 一根橡皮筋作为发射弹药的力源
3. 一根较粗的弹簧，用于制作保险机构
4. 一块小木板作为弹药架和保险机构的支撑
5. 钢丝或细金属管，用于做瞄准器
步骤：
1. 首先，确定皮筋枪的尺寸和形状。

你可以根据自己的喜好调整木棍和小木板的长度和形状。

2. 将小木板固定在木棍上，形成一个类似T字形的结构。

可以使用胶水或者螺丝固定。

3. 在小木板的一端固定弹簧，让它靠近木棍的底部，这将用于制作保险机构。

4. 将橡皮筋绑在木棍的另一端，并拉紧。

你可以根据需要调整弹簧的紧度。

5. 制作瞄准器，这可以帮助你更准确地瞄准目标。

可以通过针线或者金属片固定在枪身上。

6. 现在，皮筋枪就制作完成了！你可以拉动橡皮筋，放置弹药在弹药架上，然后放开橡皮筋来发射弹药。

请注意，制作和使用皮筋枪需要谨慎。

确保在安全的环境下使用，并遵守相关法律和规定。

做纸枪的方法

做纸枪的方法
做纸枪是很多孩子们的童年乐趣，它不仅可以锻炼孩子们的动手能力，还可以激发他们的创造力。

下面我将为大家介绍一种简单的做纸枪的方法，希望能给大家带来乐趣。

首先，我们需要准备的材料有，一张长方形的纸张，剪刀和胶带。

第一步，将长方形的纸张横向对折，然后将对折的一侧再次对折，确保纸张的边缘对齐。

这样我们就得到了一个长条状的纸张。

第二步，将纸张沿着对折的痕迹剪开，使得纸张变成两条长条状的纸张。

第三步，将其中一条纸张卷起来，使其呈现出圆筒状，并用胶带将其固定住。

这就是纸枪的枪管部分。

第四步，将另一条纸张对折，然后在对折的一侧剪出一个三角形的形状，这将成为纸枪的枪托。

第五步，将枪管和枪托用胶带粘合在一起，确保枪管的一端正好与枪托的底部对齐，这样我们就完成了纸枪的制作。

通过以上的步骤，我们就可以简单地制作出一个纸枪。

当然，如果你想让纸枪看起来更加精美，你可以在纸张上涂上颜色或者贴上一些装饰，这样会让纸枪更加有趣。

做纸枪不仅可以锻炼孩子们的动手能力，还可以培养他们的耐心和创造力。

在制作纸枪的过程中，孩子们可以学会如何利用简单的材料制作出有趣的玩具，这对他们的成长是很有帮助的。

总的来说，做纸枪是一项简单而有趣的手工活动，它不仅可以给孩子们带来乐趣，还可以锻炼他们的动手能力和创造力。

希望大家可以尝试一下这个简单的制作方法，享受制作纸枪的乐趣。

玩具枪的制作方法

玩具枪的制作方法
玩具枪的制作方法如下：
1. 准备材料和工具：纸板、剪刀、胶带、彩色纸、铅笔、直尺和胶水。

2. 选择一个合适的枪型，并用铅笔在纸板上画出枪的形状。

根据自己的喜好和创意进行设计。

3. 使用剪刀沿着铅笔线剪出纸板上的枪形状。

4. 通过剪裁彩色纸，将枪的各个部分进行装饰。

可以选择不同颜色或图案的纸片，使枪看起来更加生动有趣。

5. 将彩色纸用胶水粘贴在纸板上，确保它们牢固地固定在一起。

6. 使用胶带将枪的不同部分连接在一起，确保枪的结构稳定。

7. 检查玩具枪的各个部分是否牢固，并进行必要的调整。

8. 完成后，可以根据需要对玩具枪进行进一步的装饰，例如在枪身上贴上标志或添加一些细节。

请注意，玩具枪只是一种娱乐道具，不应该用于危险或伤害他人的目的。

在使用和玩耍时，请确保安全，并遵循相关的游戏规则和法律法规。

火柴的配方和制作方法

火柴的配方和制作方法
火柴的配方和制作方法如下：
配方
- 气体打火机油：40%
- 硬质木材粉末（例如枫木、橡木）：50%
- 氧化钾：10%
制作方法
1. 将气体打火机油和硬质木材粉末混合在一起，搅拌均匀。

2. 在混合物中加入氧化钾，再次搅拌均匀。

3. 把混合物压入模具中，以使之成为一个小火柴头的形状。

4. 将火柴头放置在火柴棒的一端，用胶水或其他粘合剂黏合。

5. 火柴制作完毕后，需进行质量检测，确保其能够迅速、牢固地起火。

注意事项：
- 制作火柴时需要注意安全，避免火源等危险物品附近进行操作。

- 火柴要放置在干燥通风的地方，避免发霉或失去起火性能。

- 制作火柴时应选择优质的木材粉末和气体打火机油，以提高起火性能和稳定性。

philip luty expedient homemade ammo handgun firearms reloading

Expedient Homemade Handgun Ammo-1-E X P E D I E NH O M E M A D EIf old grandpa left you his old 12 gauge, or you want to shoot that old pistol you came across while cleaning the attic (and don’t have any ammo!) what do you do? If you can’t buy ammo, or even primers and re-loading presses from a store, what do you do?? You will need to start from scratch!Expedient Homemade Ammo provides all the info’ you need to make simple effective ammo. At the end of the day, you don’t need ‘Presses or Primers’ to construct you own improvised ammo with just a few simple tools !M A T E R I A L S R E Q U I R E D1) Brass tube.2) Curtain rings.3) Solder paint.4) Tube cutter.5) Vernier gauge.6) Gas torch.7) 30 x 30mm Square tube.8) Hardwood section.9) Attention to detail.We will start by manufacturing .38 Special cartridge cases.The .38 Special is one of the most popular revolver cartridges in the world, supplying ammunition to a countless array of handguns, so it seems the appropriate cartridge to start with.To manufacture our homemade .38 cartridges we require some lengths of thin walled brass tube. This material is readily available from most good hobby and craft shops. The tubing I am using is manufactured in the U.S.A. For the various calibre of ammunition we will construct in this book we require tube in the following sizes;15/32” - 13/32” - 3/8” - 7/16” - and 11/32”.For the .38 cartridge case a length of 3/8” tube is required. The vernier gauge is set to 30mm, and as shown in the photos below, used to scribe a line around the tube. This is achieved by simply rotating the tube against the sharp point of the gauge.This section of tube, measuring 30mm, is now removed. The scribe mark is the point at which the tube is cut. Brass tube is harder to cut than ordinary copper plumbing tube so a good quality plumbers tube cutter is required. I emphasize ‘good quality’. It is perfectly possible to buy a good quality cutter for around £10. It is well worth spending an extra fewpounds as it will make tube cutting an easier prospect.The tube cutter should be carefully rotated clockwise and anti-clockwise so as to allow the section of tube we require to be removed. It is important not to rush the tube cutting procedure as this may cause the cutting wheel to wander leading to an inaccurately cut case.Mark the tube.Cut the tube.It is of great importance to ensure that one end of the tube section (from here on referred to as the case) is perfectly square. To achieve this the case is placed in a drill press and the spinning case lowered onto a flat file, as illustrated in the above photo. It should be noted that the drill chuck should be tightened by hand only so as not to distort the roundness of the case. This method of case trimming is just as accurate as using a small lathe and no different in principle to the case trimmers used in conventional re-loading practices.Square the case end.Measure the case.Following the trimming operation the case is measure to ensure it has an overall length of 29mm. The correct case length is very important.A T T A C H I N G T HE C A S E R I MNow that we have the main body of our .38 case it is necessary to attach the case rim. To achieve this we require a small ‘micro’ pencil gas torch, a 3/8” curtain ring, and some solder paint.Solder paint is a mixture of flux and powdered lead solder.Soldering materials.Case rimsThe .38 case rim consists of a 3/8” curtain ring. These can be found in most good hobby and craft shops and usually have ‘Rings and Clips’ printed on the pack. The clips should be discarded as they are not required. It is very important to make sure the rings have an inside diameter of 3/8”.A matchstick or small artists paintbrush is used to apply a small amount of solder paint to the squared end of the case . Ensure that the solder is fully covering the circumference of the case.Apply the solder.Solder the rim.The ring is now placed in the centre of a section of steel rod, around 1” in diameter, as shown above. The painted end of the case is then inserted into the ring. It must be ensured that the case is inserted fully and the end of the case resting against the top of the rod. The pencil torch is now used to solder the ring to the case. Only a small amount of heat is required to melt the solder so it is important not to ‘’over do it’’. Allow the case to cool for thirty seconds or so and then carefully remove the case and place it to one side while the next case is soldered.CAS E C L E A N U PFile the base.De- burr the case.As illustrated above, the case must be passed back and forth across the surface of a file several times to remove any solder residue. The inside of the case mouth must also be completely de-burred using a knife.For the simple manufacture of moderate quantities of .38 cases, the tube and ring method is perhaps ideal for the hobby gunsmith. Once the necessary quantity of tube sections are cut and trimmed to their correct length, cases can be manufactured quiet quickly.A collection of finished cases.P R I M I N G T H E C A S E SIn the event of having to manufacture our own cartridge cases it is highly likely we will also have to utilise an unconventional method of priming the cases. Without the primer the cartridge cannot be made. This book illustrates the improvised method of case manufacture, so we will take similar liberties in respect of the primer.If primers are unavailable, we can make good use of the blank cartridge as a priming method. I am using the well-known and widely available 8mm Fiocchi blanks for this reason.The blank must be disassembled before it may be used to prime our .38 cases. This is a simple procedure involving the removal of the blanks tip and green plastic plug liner, leaving us with a primed empty 8mm case.The fioochi 8mm blank case is actually manufactured from steel as apposed to conventional brass. The blanks are used in a wide array of blank firing pistols for re- enactments and training purposes where a real firearm would be unwise, or just general fun usage by replica gun collectors. They are a strong and reliable method of priming the improvised cartridge case.The first step is to use a tube cutter to remove the tip of the blank.It will be necessary to hold the blank in a pair of pliers to do this as the blank is a small component. Once the tube cutter has cut through the case wall, both ends of the blank are gripped in pliers and both halves pulled apart. In doing so the green plastic insert will be removed. The section containing the green plastic plug is discarded.A bit of twisting and pulling will be required to separate the two halvesbut this is not difficult. The above photo shows the tip removed.Remove the blank tip.Pull the blank apart.The blank can now be measured. It should be somewhere between 13mm and 15mm in length. The exact length not being too important. Before we can use the blank cases to prime our .38 cases we must make a small brass sleeve insert, so as to permit the blank to fit the .38 case. For this sleeve we require a simple 15mm length of 11/32” brass tube.A 15mm, or thereabouts, length of 11/32” brass tube is cut and measured, as shown above. The tube just acts as a ‘filler’ between theouter diameter of the blank and the inside diameter of our .38 case.Measure the blank.Measure the sleeve.After de- burring one end of the sleeve we can bond the blank and sleeve together. The outside of the sleeve is coated with a high strength retainer such as ‘bearing adhesive’ and the blank inserted into the sleeve. Do not use ‘Super Glue’.The blank and sleeve priming assembly can now be inserted into our .38 case. Retainer is now applied to the outer circumference of the sleeve and the assembly inserted into the .38 case, as shown in the abovephoto.Press theblank into the sleeve.Insert the priming assembly into the case.The above photo shows our newly primed case with the priming assembly in place. At each point of inserting the blank into the sleeve and the sleeve and blank into the case, the base of each assembly should be placed against a flat surface to ensure all inserts are completely flush with each other. The primed case must now be put to one side while the retainer has time to harden. We may use this ‘’drying time’’ to prime more cases.The primed case.T H E S H E L L H O L D E RBefore our newly primed cases can be charged with powder it is necessary to make a simple shellholder. To make the shell holder we require two washers. Both washers are 1” in diameter. One washer must have a ¼” hole and the second a ½” hole. The two washers must be soldered together and for this we require some solder paint and our gas torch. Again, I am using a pencil torch due to its small size and more accurate flame. The photo below shows the complete shell holder and a handmade .38 case ready for loading.Shell holder materials.Washers ready to solder.Before the washers can be soldered together the zinc surface should be removed by simply sliding the washers over a file several times.To solder the two washers together place the washer with the ¼” hole on a flat surface and apply solder paint to it’s circumference. Place the second washer (½” hole) on top of the first. Apply heat to the washers until the solder runs. Now leave the assembly to cool. If, as sometimes occurs, the washers ‘slide’ out of alignment with each other during soldering, the washers may be soldered on a wooden board and four tacks may be used to hold the washers in alignment. Simply place a tack at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock points around the washers. The wooden surface allows the tacks to be pressed in by finger pressure only and permits their easy removal after soldering. The small amount of heat required will not burn the wood unduly but it’s best not to use the best dining room table !In the above photo I am soldering the washers together on top of a section of steel tube, but as pointed out earlier, it is sometimes easier to use the board and tack method. The purpose of the shell holder is to protect the primer in the base of the case from coming into contact with any object that may cause the primer to detonate unintentionally.It is of great importance when reloading ammunition and although it is a very simple component it’s importance should not be overlooked.The photo below shows the finished shell holder and case ready for loading with powder and bullet.The next step is to resize our bullets ready for loading.Soldering the shell holder.B U L L E T S I Z I N G DIEI am using commercially available .38 bullets for my improvised cartridges simply because they are readily available, but even if they were not a bullet mould can easily be acquired and bullets cast.Due to the wall thickness of our brass tube (thicker than that of a factory manufactured case) we cannot seat ‘off the shelf’ bullets without first re-sizing them to fit our handmade cases. For this purpose we must make a very simple sizing die to re- size our bullets to the correct diameter.The bullet sizing die.Drilling the die holes.The homemade re-sizing die is nothing more than a modified section of box section tubing. I am using 30 x 30mm tube with a wall thickness of 2.5mm. The length of the tube is also 30mm, just to keep things simple. For accuracy of drilling a drill press must be used to make the die.The first step is to drill a 2mm or 3mm pilot hole through the centre of the tube section. The hole must pass through both walls. Next, the hole is enlarged to 5mm or 6mm, and then the final 8.9mm hole is drilled (carefully and slowly) again making sure the drill passes through both walls. The holes can be made by simply holding the tube section on the drill table with your hand and drilling the holes. It is not necessary to clamp the tube or hold it in a vice.Drill the tube.Solder thenut.We now have the main body of a simple sizing die through which to pass our bullets.The next step is to simply solder an 8mm (M8) nut to the inside wall of the die in alignment with one of the holes, as shown in the above photo.An 8mm bolt, 2” in length, is now screwed into the die. It should screw freely in and out. The bolt allows us to press the bullet through the opposite hole.The finished die is shown below.Screw in the die bolt.The finished die tool.We must re-size our bullets to a diameter of 8.9mm in order for them to fit into our .38 cases. This diameter of bullet is obviously less than any factory made or home cast bullet, but still of sufficient diameter to engage the riffling of any .38 calibre handgun. Just as with our cases, we must compromise to get the job done.In the photo below I am sizing 9mm jacketed bullets because they are as near to the diameter we require as bought (9mm - .356”) and less sizing will be required as a result. You can of course re-size any .38 lead bullet (.358” – 9.09mm) and from a re-sizing standpoint any lead bullet is easier to size than the jacketed variety. I am using jacketed bullets simply because that is what was available at the time of writing but it does illustrate that even the hard case of the jacketed bullet can be sized using this simple device.To size the bullet , place the bullet in the die as shown in the photo below and, using a spanner, slowly tighten the bolt.Screwing the bolt in will drive the bullet through the opposite hole sizing the bullet to a diameter of 8.9mm. I would suggest sizing perhaps fifty or so bullets in one session so as to have a ready supply.Press thebullet through the die.B U L L E T S E A T I N G D IENow that we have our supply of resized bullets we can begin the reloading process and start seating bullets into our cases. But before this can be done a simple ‘bullet seating die’ must be made.The purpose of the die is to ensure bullets are driven into the cartridge case accurately. The die is made from a simple section of hardwood. I am using a section of banister rail, and a 50mm diameter washer with aThe bullet seating die.Drilling the bores.10mm diameter hole. We also require an 8mm diameter bolt, 50mm (2”) long and two nuts to fit the bolt. Any section of hardwood will do and ideally it should be around 1” in diameter. The rail section I use was actually 45mm in diameter but it was easy to obtain so I used it . Whatever wood section is used, it should measure about 45mm in length.As shown in the above photo, a hole is drilled through the centre of the die. A drill press must be used for this purpose. We must drill two separate diameter bores through the die, one to accept the case and the other the bullet. It is of vital importance that both ends of the die are perfectly square before attempting to drill any of the bore holes.The first hole to be made is the ‘Case Bore’ to accept the cartridge case. This is drilled to a diameter of 9.9 or 10mm (25/64”). The second hole to be made is the ‘Bullet Bore’ to a diameter of 9mm (23/64”). The bullet bore must be drilled first.The two bores must be drilled slowly. At regular intervals during drilling the drill handle should be raised and any wood shavings released from the bit. This will ensure the bores are drilled as cleanly as possible.To drill the bullet bore hole, hold the die on the drill table and slowly drill all the way through the centre of the die, regularly releasing drill pressure to allow shavings to be removed. Do not move or rotate the die once the first hole had been made. Lower the drill table and remove the drill. Now place the 9.9mm ‘Case Bore’ drill in the chuck and carefullyraise the drill table back into alignment with the new drill bit.Two bore diameters are drilled.Now carefully drill the second bore to a depth of 30mm. This is the bore that will accept the cartridge case in due course. The bores of the die should now be inspected to ensure they are clean and true. It is a good idea to insert each of the two drill bits just used back into each bore and rotate them several times by hand to remove any slight imperfections or wood shavings. The top washer can now be screwed to the bullet bore end of the die. A washer of similar diameter to the die should be used, in my case 50mm. Drill a couple of holes either side of the washers 10mm hole and countersink each hole. Now use a couple of short screws to attach the washer to the die. Now attach the two nuts to the bolt and insert the bolt into the die. The die is now ready for use.The two nuts act as an adjustment method to alter as necessary the depth to which a bullet is seated.The finished seating die.L O A D I N G T H EC A R T R ID GE .The .38 cases are now ready to load.The primed case is first placed in the shell holder and the die inserted over the case. The powder charge is then poured into the dies bullet bore. See page 35 for improvised propellant.The resized bullet is now inserted into the die, as shown above.Insert the die over the case.Insert the bullet.The seating bolt is now inserted over the bullet. Note that the two nuts are initially screwed onto the bolt a distance of about 3/8” to begin with.The seating bolt is now tapped with a hammer, or preferably a hard rubber mallet. The bullet will be driven into the mouth of the case.Adjust the two seating bolt nuts as necessary so as to allow the bullet to be seated until the overall length of the loaded cartridge is 37. 5mm.The length of the cartridge should be measured using the vernier gauge.Insert the bolt.Tap the bolt home.Adjust the bolt nuts gradually during the seating of the first bullet until the cartridge measures 37.5mm, as shown above. Once the nuts are ‘set’ at this position all future cartridges can be loaded without touching the two lock nuts again.The loaded improvised cartridge compares favourably with its factory made counterpart. Once the necessary materials are acquired and the simple loading tools made, reloading these .38 Special cartridges isnearly as easy as loading using conventional reloading methods.Checking the cartridge length.B u l l e t s e a t i n g d i e d i m e n s i o n s f o r t h e.38s p e c i a l.As an alternative to using the brass curtain ring for the case rim we can use a simple 10mm diameter circlip, as shown below.The circlip is attached to the case using a pair of circlip pliers. It can be fitted by hand but it is easier with the correct tool. The clip is attached to the very end of the case.Apply solder paint to the clip circumference and solder the clip in place. It is possible to shoot these cartridges in a revolver withoutactuallyAttach the clip.Apply the solder.soldering the clip providing the clip is tight enough but tension of the clips do tend to vary so it will be down to trial and error as to whether you use solder or not. I would strongly advise doing so to make the clip as secure as possible.The two clip plier holes will need to be filed or ground away once the rim is fitted to allow the round to be loaded into a revolver cylinder. If the plier holes are not removed the cartridge will still chamber but only with the clips open side facing outwards away from the cylinders axis.It will be obvious to those readers with a knowledge of revolver and cartridge design history that the circlip is reminiscent of the half moon clips used for loading the .45acp auto pistol cartridges in the revolvers. Our improvised version works just as well !Clip attached.T H E .380 A C PThe .380 automatic pistol cartridge is a very simple cartridge to manufacture. Just like our homemade .38 cases itis assembled using 3/8” brass tube and a blank case as the primer.The photo above shows a commercial .380 case at ‘B’ and a homemade version at ‘A’. To make the .380 we require two sections of brass tube, one 14mm length of 3/8” and a 9mm length of 11/32”. Both tubes must be carefully de- burred.ABCommercial and improvised .380 cases.The .380 casecomponents ready for assembly.The above photo shows the three component parts of the improvised .380 case in order of assembly, consisting of two tube sections and an 8mm modified empty blank case.To assemble the .380 case apply retainer to the outer surface of the 11/32” tube and insert it into the 3/8” tube. Ensure one end of both the tubes are completely flush before the retainer sets.Allow several minutes for the retainer to set and then apply retainer to the outer surface of the blank and insert this into the flush end of the two tube assembly. Adjust the blank so the case as an overall length of 17mm and then allow the retainer to set. This is a simple case to make once the necessary tubes are cut to the correct length.The bullet for the .380 should be sized to 8.9mm just like the .38 special. The seating die bore depths are as follows: The ‘Case Bore’ is drilled to a depth of 16mm. All other measurements are as for the .38 Special.The shell holder washers are 1” diameter with 8mm and 6mm (1/4”) holes.It cannot be over emphasized how important the de-burring of all tubes used to manufacture these cases is. Each tube must be the specified length and they must slide freely inside each other.The tubes and blank should be assembled without retainer first to ensure they fit together correctly before any retainer is used in final assembly. Once retainer had set hard it will not be possible to make anyalterations to the case.Measure the case..32 A C PThe .32 auto pistol round was very popular in its day and there are an enormous number of pistols out there chambered in this calibre.Making improvised cartridges in this calibre could not be easier as we only require a single 14mm length of 11/32” tube and a modified blank case. There is also no need to re-size any bullets because ‘off the shelf’ bullets will fit the 11/32” tube without any re-sizing!After de- burring the tube, retainer is simply applied to the outer surface of the blank, and the blank inserted into the tube. The case should be measured using the vernier gauge to ensure it is 17mm in length.The improvised .32acp case is shown on right ready for assembly. A commercial case is shown on the left for comparison. The seating die ‘Case Bore’ diameter should be 9mm. The ‘Case Bore’ depth should be 15mm.The ‘Bullet Bore’ diameter should be 8mm. The same shell holder used for the .380 case may be used.When making any of the above cases, it cannot be over emphasized howimportant the careful de-burring of all the tubes is. Also, all tubes and blank primer should be test fitted first before any retainer is used.Once retainer sets hard it will not be possible to carry out any adjustments to the cartridge case.The .32 case ready for assembly.If it is found that any small adjustment to the assembled case are necessary once the retainer has set the drill press can once again be used to trim the case length. Obviously, it is the mouth of the case that will be trimmed and not the end containing the primer!The assembled case may be trimmed using the drill press for very small adjustments as shown above.The length of the finished case must always be checked.Trimming the case mouth.Measure the case.I m p r o v i s e d m a t c h h e a d P r o p e l l a n tThe best type of propellant for any cartridge is obviously the kind manufactured for the purpose, but if this is not available we must improvise if we wish to shoot our improvised cartridges.The simplest of all improvised propellant is the common match head.I have used both ‘safety’ and ‘standard’ match heads to quiet good effect. A reliable method is to ‘shave’ the match head material from the tips of matches and ”powder” (crush) the material on a flat hard surface. For safety reasons only a small number of heads should be crushed at any one time. I usually crush enough match head propellant sufficient for one round at a time, and in the unlikely event of the powder detonating, the result will only be that of a small flame.The following list shows the correct number of heads for each calibre covered in this book..38S p e c i a l:20.380a c p:10.32a c p:9An alternative to the match head propellant is black powder. If black powder cannot be purchased it can be sourced from black powder blank cartridges. Because of their large size, the 12 gauge BP blank referred to as ‘yachting blanks’ or ‘alarm blanks’ are useful. I have used the black powder obtained through such methods for years in a variety of handguns and rifles shooting both commercial brass cases and handmade versions.The 12 gauge blackpowder blankcartridge.………..E x p e r i m e n t a t i o n i s t h e K e y T o S u c c e s sExpedient Homemade AmmoCopyright P.A.Luty (D.F.C - D.A.C)No part of this documentmay be reproduced without the written permission ofthe author. All transgressors will be eliminated, or at least made to feel very ill.The constriction of improvised ammunition can be dangerous. This document is a visual commentary of my own ammunition experiments only and does not condone or encourage the manufacture of ammunition by any individual.The information contained in this publication is, therefore, presented for amusement, educational and academic study purposes only.。

火柴枪工作原理

火柴枪工作原理全文共四篇示例，供读者参考第一篇示例：火柴枪是一种简单但有趣的玩具，它的工作原理其实也非常简单。

在这篇文章中，我们将探讨火柴枪的工作原理以及如何制作一个简单的火柴枪。

让我们来看一下火柴枪的结构。

火柴枪通常由一个小的木制框架和一个橡皮筋组成。

木制框架上有一个小的缺口用来放置火柴。

橡皮筋则固定在框架的两端，并且有一个连着火柴的小夹子。

那么，当我们拉动橡皮筋并释放时，火柴是如何发射出去的呢？其实，火柴发射的原理主要是基于弹性势能的转化。

当我们拉动橡皮筋时，橡皮筋会储存弹性势能。

当我们释放橡皮筋时，橡皮筋的弹性势能会转化为动能，推动火柴向前发射。

而在这个过程中，火柴会受到一定的阻力，这个阻力会使火柴旋转，从而实现了“射击”的效果。

当我们完成以上步骤后，就可以拉动橡皮筋，将火柴放置在框架上，然后释放橡皮筋，火柴就会发射出去了。

除了简单的火柴枪外，还有一些更加复杂和专业的火柴枪，它们通常使用更加强力的橡皮筋或者其他弹簧来达到更远的射程和更高的精准度。

火柴枪是一种非常简单但有趣的玩具，它的工作原理基于弹性势能的转化，通过拉动橡皮筋并释放来推动火柴发射。

制作一个简单的火柴枪也并不困难，只需要一些简单的材料和一点耐心。

希望通过这篇文章，您能对火柴枪的工作原理有一个更深入的了解，也可以尝试制作一个属于自己的火柴枪。

第二篇示例：火柴枪，顾名思义就是利用火柴作为子弹的一种玩具枪。

它的工作原理非常简单，但也非常有趣。

接下来我们就来详细介绍一下火柴枪的工作原理。

我们需要准备一些简单的材料，包括一根空心的竹棍，一些火柴和一些胶水。

将竹棍的一端锯断，留下一段大约10厘米的空心竹棍。

然后用胶水将火柴排列在竹棍的一端，直到整个竹棍的一端都被火柴填满。

接下来，将火柴枪对准目标，用另一根火柴来擦火。

当擦火的火柴的火星接触到第一根火柴时，第一根火柴就会点燃。

由于火柴枪的一端都被火柴填满，点燃的火柴会引燃其他火柴，从而形成一个火药点火的过程。

好玩的玩具枪的制作方法

好玩的玩具枪的制作方法制作玩具枪是孩子们常常使用的娱乐活动之一。

通过亲自动手制作玩具枪，孩子们可以培养动手能力、想象力和创造力。

下面将详细介绍一种简单的制作玩具枪的方法，供你参考。

材料准备:1. 一个空的塑料水瓶或洗发水瓶2. 两个颜色不同的气球3. 一根塑料吸管4. 一些胶带或胶水5. 颜料和刷子（可选）步骤:第一步：准备水瓶首先，将塑料瓶完全清洗干净，并确保它是干燥的。

如果你喜欢，可以使用颜料和刷子来给水瓶涂上你喜欢的颜色。

让它完全干燥。

第二步：制作枪托取一个颜色较暗的气球，将其解开并剪掉尾部。

将气球的一端套在瓶口上，确保它能紧密地包裹瓶口。

用胶带或胶水固定住气球的末端，使其更牢固。

第三步：制作枪口取另一个颜色较亮的气球，将其解开并剪掉尾部。

将气球套在塑料吸管的一端上，确保气球的开口正对吸管的底部。

用胶带或胶水固定住气球的末端，使其更牢固。

第四步：组装玩具枪将带有固定气球的塑料吸管插入瓶口，直至气球的开口触碰到瓶壁。

确保吸管是稳固的，你可以用胶带或胶水将其固定在瓶子上。

第五步：装弹将枪口的气球部分拉伸到所需的程度，然后用一只手捏住气球的底部。

接下来，用另一只手将气球的开口拉过枪口的前沿，并用胶带或胶水将其固定住。

完成！你已经制作好一把简单而有趣的玩具枪了。

现在你可以通过拉动枪口的气球部分，发射虚拟子弹。

尝试不同的气球大小和拉伸程度，以获得不同的射击效果。

总结:通过以上步骤，你可以制作一把简单的玩具枪。

这个项目对于培养孩子们的创造力和动手能力非常有帮助。

当然，在制作和使用玩具枪时，我们要确保安全第一。

此外，与父母或其他成年人一起参与制作过程也是很有意义的。

希望你能享受这个制作玩具枪的过程并玩得愉快！。

木制火柴枪做法

木制火柴枪做法
木制火柴枪是一种简单易制作的娱乐小玩具。

它能够带给你很多乐趣，不仅可以让你发挥创意，还可以锻炼手工能力。

下面就让我们一起来
看看木制火柴枪的制作方法吧。

所需材料：
- 火柴
- 木板
- 小钉子
- 手电钻或电钻
- 锯子
- 螺丝刀
- 胶水
制作步骤：
1. 先准备好材料，分别测量出需要的木板尺寸，最好厚度为1厘米左右。

2. 使用锯子将木板按照尺寸锯成两段，分别作为枪身和扳机。

3. 在制作枪身的一端用电钻钻一个直径与火柴相等的小孔。

4. 然后将小钉子插入小孔，使其成为枪口。

5. 在枪身的下方钻另一个小孔，并用螺丝刀将扳机拧入。

6. 将火柴用胶水粘在小钉子上，再将扳机拨动上下试试，确认火柴是否能够击发。

7. 如果火柴能够顺利击发，就可以进行装饰了。

你可以在枪身上涂上不同颜色的油漆，或者在木板上刻上自己喜欢的文字，使火柴枪变得更加炫酷。

制作好了自己的木制火柴枪后，就可以使用它来进行玩耍了。

你可以在房间里找一个目标，如水杯或墙壁，然后利用火柴枪来射击，锻炼你的手眼协调能力和反应速度。

另外，制作木制火柴枪虽然简单，但也存在危险。

因此，在制作过程中一定要注意安全。

使用电钻或锯子时，要保证工具的安全使用，穿戴好防护用品。

总之，木制火柴枪是一种有趣的手工制品，如果你想带着孩子一起玩乐，或是在家中寻找一种新的娱乐方式，那么不妨试试制作木制火柴枪吧！。

火柴枪的使用方法

火柴枪的使用方法1. 准备材料在使用火柴枪之前，需要准备好以下材料：一根火柴棍、一把枪械。

请确保使用的火柴枪已经过专业设计和测试，并且符合相关法律法规。

2. 检查枪械在开始使用前，需要对枪械进行全面检查。

首先，检查枪械是否处于安全状态，确保没有危险部件暴露在外。

然后，检查枪械的保险装置是否正常工作，以确保操作安全。

最后，确保枪械的弹药仓已关闭或锁定，以防止意外射击。

3. 使用火柴棍将火柴棍放在枪械的击锤上，并确保其与枪械保持平行。

扣动扳机，释放火柴棍。

注意控制力度和角度，避免过度用力或偏离目标。

4. 控制力度和角度使用火柴枪时，需要注意控制力度和角度，以确保准确命中目标且不伤及自身或其他人员。

具体而言，需要根据不同的枪械类型和操作说明进行调整。

5. 注意安全事项在使用火柴枪时，必须严格遵守相关安全规定和操作规程。

严禁将枪口对向自己或他人；严禁在不正确或不安全的区域使用；严禁改装或非法改造枪械；严禁吸烟等行为。

此外，还需要定期检查和维护枪械，以确保其正常运行和使用安全。

6. 维护保养为了延长火柴枪的使用寿命和保证其正常使用效果，需要进行适当的维护保养。

主要包括清洁枪械、润滑关键部件以及更换损坏的零部件等。

建议由专业人员进行维护保养工作。

总之，使用火柴枪是一项具有潜在危险的活动，必须严格遵守相关法律法规和操作规程。

通过仔细准备、检查枪械、控制力度和角度以及注意安全事项等方法，可以有效地使用火柴枪并保障自身和他人的安全。

同时，定期维护保养也是保证枪械正常运行的重要措施。

手工枪教程

手工枪教程
手工制作枪的教程
材料：
1. PVC管道（长约30厘米，直径约2厘米）
2. 木棍（长约15厘米，直径约1厘米）
3. 胶带
4. 塑料弹弓
5. 螺丝刀或尖刀
6. 石膏粉（可选）
7. 砂纸
步骤：
1. 将木棍插入PVC管道中，让其底部露出一部分作为枪托。

使用胶带将其固定。

2. 在PVC管道的顶部和侧面各自刻上一条浅槽，以放置塑料弹弓和瞄准器。

3. 使用胶带或石膏粉固定塑料弹弓在顶部槽中。

确保弹弓可以顺畅地拉动和释放。

4. 如果想要更好的握持和舒适度，可以使用砂纸打磨整个枪的表面。

这可以让枪更加光滑和好看。

5. 如果你想要增加操作感和可调整性，可以在枪托处加入一个
可调节的支撑装置。

这可以通过在木棍底部使用螺丝刀或尖刀开口，并在其上方刻上几个槽来实现。

注意事项：
1. 在使用手工制作的枪时, 确保保持安全。

不要将其用于伤害他人或非法活动。

2. 手工制作的枪只适合用作手工制作的玩具或装饰品，不适合作为真正的武器使用。

3. 如果你想要上色你的枪，可以使用喷漆或其他合适的颜料。

记得在室外或通风良好的地方进行操作，并遵循相关的安全指导。

希望这个简单的手工制作枪的教程能够对你有所帮助！。

火柴制作方法

火柴制作方法
火柴是我们日常生活中常见的一种易燃物品，它的制作方法也是非常简单的。

下面我将为大家介绍一下火柴的制作方法。

首先，我们需要准备好以下材料，木棍、硫磺、黏合剂、火柴头。

接下来，我
们将按照以下步骤进行制作。

第一步，将木棍切割成适当的长度，一般为5-7厘米，然后用砂纸打磨木棍的
表面，使其光滑。

第二步，将硫磺加热至液态状态，然后将木棍的一端浸入硫磺中，使其均匀覆
盖硫磺。

第三步，将火柴头用黏合剂粘贴在木棍的另一端，确保火柴头与木棍紧密粘合。

第四步，将制作好的火柴放置在通风干燥的地方，等待硫磺凝固，火柴即可制
作完成。

通过以上简单的几个步骤，我们就可以轻松制作出一根火柴。

当然，在实际生
产中，还需要严格控制制作过程中的温度、湿度等环境因素，以确保火柴的质量。

除了传统的火柴制作方法外，现在还有一种新型的火柴制作方法——化学火柴。

这种火柴使用化学物质取代了硫磺，使得火柴更加易燃。

化学火柴的制作方法与传统火柴略有不同，但基本原理相同。

总的来说，火柴的制作方法并不复杂，只要掌握了基本的制作步骤和技巧，就
可以轻松制作出高质量的火柴。

当然，在制作过程中也需要注意安全，避免接触到火源和易燃材料，以免发生意外。

希望以上内容能够帮助大家更好地了解火柴的制作方法，也希望大家在使用火
柴时能够注意安全，避免发生意外。

祝大家生活愉快！。

火柴制作方法

火柴制作方法
火柴是我们日常生活中常见的一种火种工具，它的制作方法简
单易学，今天我们来分享一下火柴的制作方法。

首先，我们需要准备好以下材料，木棒、火药、粘合剂和火柴盒。

接下来，我们开始制作火柴。

首先，将木棒裁成适当的长度，
通常为5-6厘米。

然后，在木棒的一端涂上一层薄薄的火药，这是
火柴燃烧的关键。

接着，将涂有火药的木棒头部浸入粘合剂中，确
保火药牢固地粘在木棒上。

待粘合剂干燥后，火柴的制作就完成了。

最后，将制作好的火柴装入火柴盒中，便可以方便地携带和使
用了。

需要注意的是，在制作火柴的过程中，一定要小心谨慎，避免
火药的接触和不慎引起火灾。

另外，制作火柴的场所应该通风良好，避免火药气味的积聚。

通过以上简单的制作方法，我们可以轻松地制作出自己的火柴，
方便日常使用。

希望大家在使用火柴时，也能够注意安全，避免火灾的发生。

总的来说，火柴的制作方法并不复杂，只需准备好材料和小心操作，便可以轻松完成。

希望这篇文档能够帮助到大家，祝大家使用火柴时安全愉快！。

报纸折枪的方法

报纸折枪的方法
嘿，朋友们！今天咱来聊聊怎么用报纸折一把超酷的枪！
你可别小瞧这报纸，它能在咱手里变出神奇的玩意儿呢！想象一下，一张平平无奇的报纸，经过一番摆弄，就能变成一把有模有样的枪，
这多有意思呀！
首先呢，把报纸铺平，就像给它准备一个安稳的小床似的。

然后，
把报纸的一角往上折一点，这就像是给枪打造一个小小的“枪头”。

接着，把旁边的部分也顺势折过来，一层一层的，就好像在给枪添砖加瓦，让它越来越有型。

哎呀，这感觉就跟盖房子似的，每一步都得精心对待呢！你说是不是？然后再把另一边也这么折过来，慢慢地，枪的形状就开始显现出
来啦。

这时候，你再仔细瞧瞧，是不是已经有点枪的样子啦？就像一个小
婴儿慢慢长大，越来越有模样啦！接着，把下面多余的部分折进去，
让整把枪更加紧凑，更加结实。

等折到差不多的时候，你就会发现，哇塞，这真的像一把枪啦！你
可以拿着它，假装自己是个英勇的战士，在房间里冲锋陷阵呢！
嘿，你说这报纸折的枪，虽然不能真的发射子弹，但它能给我们带来多少欢乐呀！它就像是我们童年的一个小魔法，能让我们在一瞬间回到那个充满想象力的时光。

而且呀，这可不仅仅是个简单的手工，它还能锻炼我们的动手能力和耐心呢！你想想，要是没有耐心，怎么能把这报纸一点点折成枪的形状呢？
咱还可以和小伙伴们一起比赛折枪，看看谁折得又快又好。

这多有意思呀，不比玩手机游戏差吧？
所以呀，别小看这报纸折枪的方法，它能给我们带来好多好多的乐趣和回忆呢！赶紧找张报纸试试吧，让我们一起变回那个充满好奇心的小孩子，享受这简单而又快乐的时光！怎么样，还等什么呢？。

用牙膏做木头枪视频教程

用牙膏做木头枪视频教程标题：用牙膏制作木头枪-详细视频教程（1000字）引言：大家好！今天，我将向大家介绍一种有趣且创意的手工制作方法——用牙膏制作木头枪！这个制作过程非常简单，仅需要一些简单的材料和工具，而且您不需要在制作过程中使用任何危险的工具。

通过这个教程，您将能够亲手制作一把精美的木头枪，并且可以根据自己的喜好进行个性化的装饰。

让我们开始吧！材料：1. 一根适合用作枪身的木条（长约30厘米，宽约1.5厘米）2. 牙刷和牙膏3. 细砂纸4. 亚克力颜料和刷子（可选）5. 热熔胶枪（可选）步骤1：准备工作首先，确保工作台面整洁，并准备好所需的全部材料。

这样可以确保您在制作过程中能够方便地拿取所需材料，提高工作效率。

步骤2：设计枪身形状拿起木条并决定您想要的枪身形状。

您可以选择经典的枪形或者根据个人喜好进行自由创作。

使用铅笔将设计的形状轻轻地画在木板上。

步骤3：切割木条使用锯子将木条切割成您所设计的形状。

请务必小心操作，确保手指和身体的安全。

如果您不擅长操作锯子，可以请他人协助或者使用锯木工具。

步骤4：修整木条表面使用细砂纸对木条的表面进行修整。

这一步骤将让木条更加光滑，并且可以移除不平整的表面。

您可以选择用手动砂纸修整或使用电动砂纸机以节省时间和精力。

步骤5：涂抹牙膏将牙膏挤在一个平坦的表面上，并使用牙刷将牙膏均匀地涂抹在木条的表面上。

牙膏具有一定的粘性，能够帮助您更好地附着装饰材料。

步骤6：装饰木条现在，您可以开始为木条进行装饰。

您可以选择将颜料涂在牙膏上，用刷子绘画或者使用其他创意装饰工具。

可以根据个人喜好选择不同颜色和图案来定制您的作品。

步骤7（可选）：使用热熔胶固定装饰如果您使用了一些较大或复杂的装饰件，您可以使用热熔胶枪将其牢固地粘在木条上。

小心操作热熔胶枪，并确保您不会触碰到热熔胶。

步骤8：干燥等待牙膏和涂料干燥。

这通常需要一段时间，根据所用材料的不同而不同。

确保您将木条放置在一个安全的地方，以确保其干燥过程稳定。

聊天的时候说起以前玩过的火柴枪

聊天的时候说起以前玩过的火柴枪，（不知道80以后的还知道不知道）。

发现原来是怎么做的已经想不起来了，在网上一查，发现有牛人的详细教程，也来分享一下。

儿时玩具火柴枪制作1火柴枪，又名链条枪(嘿嘿，反正我们那是这样称呼的)。

基本上，这是由自行车零件构成的枪械（大致如上图）。

铁丝拧成的枪架上，串着若干自行车链扣。

链扣们的另一个孔供枪栓活动。

最前端的链扣需要打入一个自行车辐条顶端的螺帽，以恰好留出一个火柴棍大小的孔。

整串链扣和枪栓分别用从自行车内胎剪下来的橡皮筋箍好，使用时掰开最前端的链扣，将火柴棍塞入螺帽形成的孔并向外拉出，而火柴头上的火药则留在螺帽内。

扣动扳机，枪栓高速撞击火柴头的火药，从而产生能让我们无比满足的巨响和烟火。

所有上面说到的自行车零部件，大多是平日里苦心搜寻得来，凑齐所有材料殊为不易，而如果做工不细，还可能做出不会响的哑巴枪，被其他小伙伴笑掉大牙。

因此，能拥有这样一把威风的枪，无疑是当时一个孩子所能奢望的最大财富。

儿时玩具火柴枪制作2处理顶端螺帽：儿时玩具火柴枪制作5安装螺帽：儿时玩具火柴枪制作4安装枪管（这个是为了枪的帅气，其实可以略去这一步）：儿时玩具火柴枪制作7儿时玩具火柴枪制作6组装链条：儿时玩具火柴枪制作8打造枪体(记得好像是8号铁丝)：儿时玩具火柴枪制作9安装橡皮筋（这个要说一下，一般很少用橡皮筋，基本上用自行车内胎剪出来的橡皮环，因为力道够紧，弹性好。

当然，板车轮胎或者汽车轮胎更好）：儿时玩具火柴枪制作10装填弹药（之所以叫火柴枪，就是因为可以用火柴做弹药，另外，有钱的就去买那种专用的火药，记得是两毛钱一张，上面一粒粒黄色的颗粒，一颗就很劲爆，填入两颗的话，在耳朵振麻的同时，估计得立马换橡皮筋了儿时玩具火柴枪制作3小时候，没有钱去买好玩的玩具，或者说也没有多少好玩的玩具可以买，彼时的商品经济不像今日这般的昌盛，所以，小小的我和小小的伙伴们每天都大眼瞪小眼，小眼瞪大眼。

经过漫长的瞪眼后，我们觉得用瞪眼来打发时间实在是效率低下，于是我们就开始寻求变通之道。