皮和革区别方法

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皮和革区别方法
默认分类2009-04-22 10:48 阅读42 评论0 字号:大大中中小小皮和革的区分方法介绍
Introduction of the differentiation of hide and leather
目前,市场上流行的皮革制品有真皮和人造皮革两大类,而合成革和人造革是由纺织布底基或无纺布底基,分别用聚氨酯涂复并采用特殊发泡处理制成的,有表面手感酷似真皮,但透气性,耐磨性,耐寒性都不如真皮。

如何区别真假皮革制品呢?
At present, there are two main leather products in the market: hide and synthetic leather. The synthetic leather is based on textile or nonwowens, respectively coated with PU and treated by special foaming. Though its hand-feeling is very similar with natural leather, the, wear-resistance andare all poorer. How to differentiate the natural and synthetic leather?
1.革面:天然的革面有自己特殊的天然花纹,革面光泽自然,用手按或捏革面时,革面无死皱或死褶,也无裂痕;而人造革的革面很像天然革,但仔细看花纹不自然,光泽较天然革亮,颜色多为鲜艳。

1. Surface of leather: the surface of natural leather has its own natural texture,. The surface is glossy,
2.革身:天然革,手感柔软有韧性,而仿革制品虽然也很柔软,但韧性不足,气候寒冷时革身发硬。

当用手曲折革身时,天然革曲回自然,弹性较好,而仿革制品曲回运动生硬,弹性差。

2. Body of leather: the hand-feeling of natural leather is soft and tough. The synthetic leather is also soft, but not tough enough, and will turn stiff in cold weather. When folding, the natural leather
3.切口:天然革的切口处颜色一致,纤维清晰可见且细密。

而仿革制品的切口无天然革纤维感,或可见底部的纤维及树脂,或从切口处看出底布与树脂胶合两层次。

3. Incision: The color at incision of natural leather is uniform, and the fiber is clear, slender and thick.
4.革里面:天然革的正面光滑平整有毛孔和花纹。

革的反面有明显的纤维束,呈毛绒状且均匀。

而仿革制品中部分合成革正反面一致,里外面光泽都好,也很平滑;有的人造革正反面也不一样,革里能见到明显的底布;但也有的革里革面都仿似天然革,革里也有似天然革的绒毛,这就要仔细观察真假品种的差异性。

4. Inside of leather: The obverse of natural leather is gloss with pore and pattern. The opposite of leather has obviouss which is plush-like and uniform. In synthetic leather products, the two sides of part of the synthetic leather are uniform, which are glossy and smooth.
羊皮革:其特征是粒面毛孔扁圆,较斜地深入革内,毛孔几根排成一组,排列的很像鳞片或锯齿状。

花纹特点如“水波纹“状。

在羊革中又分为绵羊革和山羊革。

绵羊革:皮层中脂肪含量较多,革的纤维组织松弛,非常柔软,粒面细致,延伸性较大,但不坚固。

Sheepskin leather: The layer contains much fat. Theof leather is lax with fine grain and good, but it is not very firm.
山羊革:皮层中脂肪含量较少,纤维组织比绵羊革饱满,坚实耐用。

Goat leather: The fat content in the layer is not very much. The fibrous tissue is plumper than sheepskin leather and is compact and durable.
二者的区别:绵羊革粒面细致光滑;山羊革毛孔清楚,革质有弹性。

无论那一种羊革制品制成的服装都具有美观的花纹,光泽柔和自然,轻薄柔软,富有弹性,但强度不如牛革和猪革。

The differences: The grain of sheepskin leather is fine and glossy; the pore of goat leather is clear and the leather is flexible. The costume made of any sheep leather owns beautiful patterns, gentle and natural gloss. It is light, soft and flexible, but its strength is worse than cattle leather and pig leather.
表皮位于毛发之下,紧贴在真皮的上面,由不同形状的表皮细胞排列组成。

表皮的厚度随着动物的不同而异,例如牛皮的表皮厚度为总厚度的0.5~1.5%;绵羊皮和山羊皮为2~3%;而猪皮则为2~5%。

真皮则位于表皮之下,介于表皮与皮下组织之间,是生皮的主要部分。

其重量或厚度约占生皮的90%以上。

Constituted by epinatural leatherl cells with different shapes, the epidermis locates under the hairs, clinging to natural leather. Different kinds of animal have different epinatural leatherl thickness. For example, the epinatural leatherl thickness of cattle hide is 0.5% to 1.5% of its total thickness, while sheep and goat hide 2% to 3%, and pig hide 2% to 5%. The natural leather, locating under the epidermis, between epidermis and, is an important part of raw hide. Its weight and thickness account for over 90% of raw hide.
制革的原料是动物皮,虽然我们生活中最常见的是猪皮、牛皮、羊皮,但实际上大多数动物皮都可以用于制革。

只是牛皮、猪皮和羊皮的质量好且产量大,是制革的主要原料。

The raw material of leather-making is animal’s hide. In our life pig hide, cattle hide and sheep hide is the most common, but actually, hide of most of animals can be used to make leather. The three above are of good quality and large quantity, so become the main raw materials of leather-making.
虽然制革的原料皮种类繁多,根据国际颁发的动物保护条例等一系列法律法规,真正用于生产的原料在一下程度上受到了限制,常用的皮革是:牛革、羊革、猪革和马革。

Though there are many kinds of hide for leather making, the raw materials really used in manufacturing are limited to some extent, according to a series of laws and regulations such as the regulation on animal protection mandated by international organization. The most common leathers are cattle leather, sheep leather, pig leather and horse leather.
皮料的特性与区别
The characteristics and differences of leather
头层皮与二层皮:按皮革的层次分,有头层和二层革,其中头层革有粒面革、修面革、压花革、特殊效应革、压花革;二层革又分猪二层和牛二层革等。

Top layer leather and split:According to the layer of leather, it can be classified into top layer leather and split. The top layer leather includes grain leather, corrected upper leather,and special effect leather. The split includes pig split, cattle split, etc..
粒面革:在诸多的皮革品种中,全粒面革居榜首,因为它是由伤残较少的上等原料皮加工而成,革面上保留完好的天然状态,涂层薄,能展现出动物皮自然的花纹美。

它不仅耐磨,而且具有良好的透气性。

Grain leather: The grain leather ranks first among so many leather products, because it is processed by good raw hides with less scars. The surface of leather keeps perfectly natural, and the thin coatings can stand out the natural beauty of animal’s hide. It is not only wear-resistant, but also of good.
修面革:是利用磨革机将表面轻磨后进行涂饰,再压上相应的花纹而制成的。

实际上是对带有伤残或粗糙的天然革面进行了“整容”。

此种革几乎失掉了原有的表面状态,
Corrected upper Leather: Coat itwith after light grinding, and then compress corresponding patterns. Actually it is just like that the natural leather with scars are made “plastic surgery”, for it has almost been disfigured.
全粒面皮革特性:分为软面革、皱纹革、正面革等。

特性为完整保留粒面,毛孔清晰、细小、紧密、排列不规律,表面丰满细致,富有弹性及良好的透气性,是一种高档皮革。

用此牛皮制成的皮革产品,使用舒适耐久且美观。

The property of full grain leather: It includes soft leather,and. As first-class leather, it is characterized with complete grain, pore which is clear, fine, dense and irregular-arranged, plump and delicate surface, strong flexibility and good gas-permeability. Leather product made by this cattle hide is durable and beautiful.
半粒面皮革特性:其在制作过程中经设备加工、修磨成只有一半的粒面,故称半粒面牛皮。

保持了天然皮革的部分风格,毛孔平坦呈椭圆形,排列不规则,手感坚硬,一般选用等级较差的原料皮。

所以属中档皮革。

因工艺的特殊性其表面无伤残及疤痕且利用率较高,其制成品不易变形,所以一般用于面积较大的大公文箱类产品。

Te property of semi-grain leather: Only half of the grain remains after processing and grinding during the manufacture, so it is called semi-grain leather. It keeps part of style as natural leather. The pore is flat and oval with irregular arrangement, and the hand-feeling is hard. Raw hide with lower class is often used. So it is only medium-class leather. Because of the particularity of technology, no scars on the surface and high utility rate, the finished product is not easy to be deformed. So it is often applied in big-area products like big dispatch box.
修面牛皮特性:又称“光面牛皮”,市场也称雾面、亮面牛皮。

特性为表面平坦光滑无毛孔及皮纹,在制作中表层粒面做轻微磨面修饰,在皮革上面喷涂一层有色树脂,掩盖皮革表面纹路,再喷涂水性光透树脂,所以是一种高档皮革。

特别是亮面牛皮,其光亮耀眼、高贵华丽的风格,是时装皮具的流行皮革。

Property of corrected upper cattle hide: Also known as cattle hide of smooth surface, cattle hide of foggy surface and cattle hide of bright surface. It is characterized with smooth surface, no pore and. The surface grain is slightly ground during the manufacturing, colored resin is coated on the leather, the surficial vein is covered and then waterborne and optically-transparent resin is sprayed. So it is top leather. The cattle hide of bright surface, whose style is of brightness and magnificence, is fashionable leather.
特殊效应牛皮特性:其制作工艺要求同修饰面牛皮,只是在有色树脂里面加带珠、金属铝或金属铜元素进行综合喷涂皮革上,再滚一层水性光透明树脂,其成品具有各种光泽,鲜艳村目,雍容华贵,为目前流行皮革,属中档皮革。

压花牛皮特性:用带有图案的花板(铝制、铜制)在皮革表面进行加温压制各种图案,成一种风格的皮革。

目前市场流行有”荔枝纹牛皮”,其就是利用一块带有荔枝纹图案的花板,名称也随之称“荔枝纹牛皮”。

Property of special effect cattle hide: The manufacturing technology is the same with corrected upper cattle hide.
二层革:是厚皮用片皮机剖层而得,头层用来做全粒面革或修面革,二层经过涂饰或贴膜等系列工序制成二层革,它的牢度耐磨性较差,是同类皮革中最廉价的一种。

Split leather: Its fastness and wear-resistance is comparatively bad, so it’s the cheapest one in leather of the same kind.
二层牛皮特性:其反面是牛皮的第二层皮料,在表面涂上一层PU树脂,所以也称贴膜牛皮。

其随工艺的变化也制成r档次的品种,如进口二层牛皮,因工艺独特,质量稳定,品种新颖等特点,为目前的高档皮革,价格与档次都不亚于头层真皮。

Property of split cattle hide: The opposite is the second hide of cattle hide. As the surface is
coated with PU resin, it is also called membrance cattle hide. According to the technology, it can be made into many products with different grades. For example, the imported split cattle hide, because of its specific technology, stable quality and novel variety, belongs to top leather at present, and its grade as well as price is no lower than top layer natural leather.。

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