Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion WeekANCHORThe fashion world has descended on Italy. The Milan Fashion Week brings together the country’s top designers with names like Prada, Gucci and Georgio Armani taking center stage, but it’s also a time for lesser known Italian desig ners to showcase their work. Milan Fashion Week follows similar extravaganzas, of course, in New York and London. Here to tell us more, Richard Heller, he’s the European Editor of Forbes Global. Thanks for being here. How does Milan rate against some of the other big names?主播米兰时装周汇集了全国顶级时装设计师的作品，如普拉达、古奇和乔治奥•阿曼尼，同时也为那些不是很知名的设计师提供了展示他们作品的舞台。

和纽约、伦敦时装周一样，米兰时装周也是一个汇聚各种华服的盛典。

《福布斯》杂志国际版的欧洲编辑理查德•哈勒会告诉我们更多情况。

感谢您的到来。

米兰时装周与其他时装周的区别在什么地方RICHARD HELLER, EUROPEAN EDITOR OF FORBES GLOBALWell, let’s see. The four gre at shows are New York, London, Milan and Paris. And if I were going to do a one-worder on each, I’d say commercial------New York, daring------London, slick------ Milan, and classic------Paris.理查德•哈勒，《福布斯》杂志国际版欧洲编辑现在四大主要时装周就是纽约时装周、伦敦时装周、米兰时装周和巴黎时装周，如果要分别用一个词来评价他们的话，我想说的是：商业——纽约、大胆——伦敦、奢华——米兰、经典——巴黎。

ANCHORWell, they weren’t so slick with the power going out across the country, wer e they? How did they get on?主播随着这种风潮在全国的消减，米兰时装周也不再是那样奢华了，是吗？那么有何新的变化呢？RICHARD HELLERWell, I would have thought that would be a rather dark beginning for the festivities, but I think they’re alright. I talked to somebody down there this morning who said the lights went on in Milan about 5 oÕclock, so they’re alright.理查德•哈勒我原来对这次时装周的开场并不乐观，但是事实上还不错。

今天早上，那里的一个人和我聊天时说道，米兰的灯五点就会亮，这也证明了米兰时装周的开场挺好的。

ANCHORSo lesser known Italian designers are going to be showcasing their work, I mean, what are the sort of names that we should be looking out for? Who are going to be the next Armanis, the next Guccis?主播一些不是很知名的设计师将会展示他们的作品，我的意思是，我们会关注哪些名字？谁将成为下一个阿曼尼，下一个古奇？RICHARD HELLERWell, I mean Dolce & Gabana, which is hardly lesser known but was not on your list. And there are a series of young people. But what we have here are the classic old names, theones you mentioned, Prad a, Gucci and so forth. But then there’s Valentino, which is a very old name. Pucci, which was a very old name. And all those names are being revived by young blood that’s coming in. I should say that these fashion shows, however, are the public face of a r ather tough private business, because Italy is both probably the world’s largest textile and apparel industry, in terms of exports in particular, but beyond that it is the workshop in the Western world for the fashion industry, the stitching and all that kind of thing.理查德•哈勒我想朵且&加巴纳并不算不知名，但肯定不在你列的名录中。

这里有一群年轻人，这里还有你提到的那些经典的名字普拉达, 古奇等等，还有华伦天奴，这也是一个非常老的名称。

普奇，同样也是很老的名字。

但这些经典的名字都将会因为即将注入的年轻血液而得到复兴。

我要说的是，这些时装周不过是一个相当艰难的行业展示给公众的一面，因为意大利可能拥有世界最大的纺织产业和服装产业，尤其就出口而言，除了这些，意大利还是西方时尚产业的一个加工厂，从事缝纫及类似事情。

ANCHORSure. No doubt we see a lot of smiles on the surface, I mean, is it so cozy underneath? I mean, when money’s at stake, I imagine it’s all pretty cut-throat.主播这是当然的，无疑我们看到很多表面上的笑容，我的意思是其内在是否也这样惬意呢？一旦金钱出现危机，我想就会是致命的。

RICHARD HELLERAnything but cozy. But the... some years ago there was a fellow named, I think his name is Ginochietti, who got up and gave a screamer about reorganizing the Milan shows to really let young people in, as opposed to people who are working for, let us say, the Pradas. And he was promptly shouted down. The old control system still works, as it does in Paris too. 理查德•哈勒绝对不是惬意。

但是……几年前有个人，名叫，我想他的名字应该是Ginochietti，发表了一篇令人震惊的文章，内容是关于重组米兰时装展以便真正地让年轻人进入这一活动，跟为普拉达之类（老牌）工作的人意见相对。

当然他的声音很快被压了下去。

旧的体系依旧在起着作用，在巴黎也是如此。

ANCHORHow much money changes hands as a result of a show like this?主播举办这样的时装展会带来多少交易额呢？RICHARD HELLEROh... well, let’s see, that’s really hard because most of the selling goes on in showrooms in dingy quarters around the city. Very few clothes are sold while those glamorous ladies are marching up and down. And what we’re really talking about are orders f or the next season, which is to say you see a show and what you see in the catalogue is probably not what you’re going to buy. What you see in the catalogue, let’s say someone like Prada will produce the buzz that will make your buyers, let us say, Harrod’s or Bloomingdale’s, want to buy and so you place your orders for months in advance.理查德•哈勒噢，让我想想，这很难统计，因为大部分的售卖都是在城市各处阴暗角落里的样品陈列室里进行的。

在那些迷人的女士们展示服装时，没有几件衣服被卖出。

我们真正要谈的是下一季的订单。

这就是说你去看一个时装展，你在目录中看到的内容不一定是你将会买的。

比如说你在目录中看到了普拉达，它会制造出一些传闻，使得你的买主例如哈洛斯百货公司或布卢明代尔百货公司想买它的产品，那么你就会提前数月下订单。