韩国的茶历史及茶文化景观概况
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earth’s temperature dropped to a low level of ice. At that time, the sea in front of China’s Zhejiang and Kangso provinces froze, and the lakes and rivers in Gangnam froze. During the Joseon Dynasty, the extreme weather of frigid winters and hot summer has caused several atmospheric changes and killed more than a million people which were one-fifth of the Joseon population. In this situation, it is thought that it will be very difficult to grow and drink tea, not to mention maintaining the culture. In addition, Japan’s two invasions and other Korean Wars were also blamed for the decline of the tea culture.
Later, in the late Joseon Dynasty, King Gojong established Nongsang in November 1882,a n d i n1883t h e f o l l o w i n g y e a r, Nongsang investigated and managed the cultivation of tea trees. In 1885, 6000tea t r e e s e e d l i n g s w e r e i m p o r t e d f r o m t h e Qing Dynasty. Such a revival of tea culture was seen again, but with Japan’s forced occupation, Korea’s traditional tea culture w e r e o n c e a g a i n d i s c o u r a g e d.J a p a n e s e production facilities were managed by the Japanese occupation, and tea farms and Jeongeup in Gwangju Mudeung Socheon’s Boseong-eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do, and so on were also occupied by the Japanese. Korean traditional tea trees were removed from many tea gardens then managed by the Japanese, and Japanese yabukita species were cultivated instead. Also, as part of J a p a n’s p o l i c y t o e r a d i c a t e t r a d i t i o n a l culture, Japan’s tea ceremony, which is not a traditional Korean tea ceremony, was promoted in Korea.
After liberation from Japan, Korea went through the Korean War again, and as the war came to an end, Western culture rushed in, causing many people to drink coffee, juice, coke and other beverages, the habit of drinking Korean tea was kept only by a handful of people.
Recently, as the number of people enjoying tea increases due to surging interest in health, the need for healing and communication, Korea green tea is also making efforts to increase its commerciality in line with the trend of the market. Korean teas are producing various kinds of tea such as black tea and yellow tea but they still need to be developed more.
With the increasing number of people drinking tea, the restoration and inheritance of Korean traditional tea culture is also advancing steadily. People are trying to make tea a culture rather than just a drink.
2 Korea’s Typical Tea Landscape
Korea has more tea landscapes than are commonly known. Many areas of the Korean Peninsula have traditionally been cultivated for their tea. There are many areas where tea trees can be easily found at mountain behind the house or at the neighborhood entrance, even if they were not made in a tea garden due to lack of management. These places are not for commercial purposes, but they are making tea and enjoying it personally using nearby tea trees.
Although there are small areas such as Gangjin, Namhae, Gimhae and Haenam that produce and sell teas, Korea’s typical tea landscape are Bosung, Hadong and Jeju Island.
2.1 Bosung (Located in Bosung County,
Jeollanamdo)
According to records from Dongguk Yeoji
Figure 1 Bosung tea garden (From:/834/newsdetail.html)
using its long-standing roasting technology, which differentiate from other local green tea, which mainly produces low quality green tea (Figure 2).
Hadong is difficult to commercialize because many of its family members produce unique characters, but the amount produced by one tea garden is small and there are no clear standards for teas produced in the region. However, many people recognize and enjoy the value of Hadong’s green tea as it is called handmade green tea or traditional green tea. important feature only available in Jeju. Jeju green tea is grown using volcanic rock water, so it is safe to drink because it has no pollutants and is rich in minerals and nutrients.
Jeju green tea is produced using hands to create deep flavors, and it has excellent t a s t e,a r o m a a n d c o l o r a s i t i s s e r v e d with Gujung Gupo (9times roasting and 9 times rubbing), a multi-tasking method of traditional medicine.
In particular, in Jeju Island, as the production of tangerines plummeted
d u
e t o e x c e s s i v e p r o d u c t i o n
and casued damage to farming
households, the government also
e n c o u r a g e d t h e m o v e m e n t t o
transform tangerine fields into tea
fields since 2001. In the early stages
of implementation, the number of
tea trees being planted in accordance
with policy has increased since
2005. As the island is well-known
as a tourist attraction, tourists are
also looking for large and small tea houses, as well as tea production.
Figure 2 Hadong tea cultivation area
(From:www.hadong.go.kr/01218/03205.
web?amode=view&idx=45&)
2.3 Jeju Island
The reason why Jeju started producing tea in earnest was when O’sulloc, a private company, created a tea plant on Jeju Island and produced teas(Figure 3).
The Jeju area is the only volcanic ash soil in Korea with very high levels of organic matter content in black, which is very good for the production of high-quality tea leaves and the growth of tea trees. Also, due to Jeju’s subtropical climate, tea trees grow faster, which results in one to two weeks
earlier than other regions, and the harvest of Myeongjeoncha (before April 5th) is an Figure 3 O’sulloc Museum (From:)
习惯。
近年来,健康成为社会关注的热点,出于对重拾健康生活习惯和人际沟通的需求,韩国的饮茶人数不断增加。
韩国绿茶顺应市场的需求,逐渐提高其商业化程度。
新的茶叶品种,如红茶、黄茶也涌现出来,不过他们仍待进一步发展。
随着饮茶人数的不断增加,韩国传统茶文化的恢复和传承工作也在稳步推进,人们正在努力使茶成为一种文化,而不单单作为一种饮品而存在。
2 韩国的典型茶文化景观
韩国的茶文化景观数量多于人们通常所知。
朝鲜半岛的许多地区都有传统的茶叶种植区。
在许多地区,我们能够轻而易举地在屋后的山上或附近发现茶树,尽管由于缺乏管理,这些茶树并不是种植在茶园里。
这些地区的茶树种植也并非出于商业目的,而是人们就地种植茶树,加工后以便自己享用。
虽然生产和销售茶叶集中在江津(Gangjin)、南海(Namhae)、金海(Gimhae)和海南(Haenam)等局部地区,但韩国典型的茶文化景观却在宝城(Bosung)、河东(Hadong)和济州岛(Jeju Island)等地。
2.1 宝城(位于全罗南道宝城县)
根据Dongguk Yeoji Seungram和Sejong Silokji的记载,宝城自古以来就生有野生茶树,因此生产绿茶,甚至这个村庄的名字也叫“茶田”,Songgok-ri和Nyangnyang-myeon均认可这一记载。
目前,茶树仍在全县范围内种植,包括Mundeok-myeon的大源寺(Daewonsa Temple)和Beolgyo的金光寺(Jinggwang Temple)。
现在的宝城茶园(图1)创建于1939年, 此地为海洋性和大陆性的混合气候,良好的土壤和合适的降水量非常适宜茶树种植,具备优质绿茶的生产条件。
于是当年,人们便在土壤酸度合适的山脚下(原Hakseongsan 山)开辟了30hm2的茶园。
该茶园规模曾一度达到590hm2。
近年,茶园将面积达425hm2的梯田茶种植园与自然景观融为一体,其绿茶产量约占全国绿茶产量的40%。
宝城县(Boseong County)属山地、海洋、湖泊之交,地处海洋气候和大陆性气候交汇之处,非常有利于茶叶中氨基酸的形成,其种植面积占全国茶叶种植面积的37%。
此地年平均气温为13.4℃,年平均降雨量为1400mm,土壤中存在的大分子成分非常适合茶树生长。
承雾树林保证茶树在生长期有充足的水分,这种自然光照和气候下生长的天然茶叶口感更好。
宝城茶叶因其适宜的自然环境,如气候、土壤、地形、湖泊和海洋等,而在高品质茶叶中占有一席之地。
宝城地区采用坡上种植,播种和采摘都不太方便,因而生产成本较高,但消费者却能够轻松品尝到真正的优质茶叶。
2.2 河东(位于庆尚南道河东郡)
河东郡因其千年栽培茶树而闻名。
值得一提的是,这里的野生茶树种和以采用传统手工制茶法的小图1 宝城茶产区
(来源:big5chinese.visitkorea.or.kr/cht/index.kto)
图2 河东郡花开洞天野生茶园
(From:www.hadong.go.kr/01218/03205.web?amode=view&idx=45&)
河东绿茶很难商业化,是因为各茶园的茶叶都是,且产量有限。
此外,该地区的茶叶生产也没有明确的标准。
然而,河东绿茶得到了普遍认可,人们对这种手工生产的传统绿茶青睐有加。
2.3 济州岛
济州岛茶叶生产发端于一家私营公司—欧雪绿
sulloc),它在济州岛建厂,并由此开始生产茶叶。
济州岛地区拥有韩国唯一一处有机质含量非常丰富的黑色火山灰土壤地,适于茶树生长和优质茶叶的生)。
此外,由于济州岛的亚热带气候,茶树的生长周期更短,比其他地区早一到两周,这使得能在5日前采摘的明田茶(Myeongjeon cha)成为济州岛独一无二的茶叶。
济州岛绿茶采用火山岩,无污染,富含矿物质和营养成分,饮用安全。
济州岛绿茶经手工制作而成,风味醇厚,运用了传统医术里的“九烤九揉”的手法,具有极佳的口感、香气和色泽。
特别要提及的是,济州岛由于大面积种植柑橘导致产量过剩,农户受损。
自2001年起,政府发起了将柑橘田改造成茶园的运动。
政策落实初期
量自2005年以来有所增加。
由于该岛是著名的旅游胜地,大大小小的茶馆和茶叶生产作坊也在蓬勃发展的旅游业中得以兴盛。
图3 济州岛茶园(来源:)
(李汝倍 译,李光涵 校)。