New_Restaurants_Modern_Chinese,_Blackbird_2.0,_Lat

dao Jiang Hu Stirring the Wok on Donghu Lu By Cristina Ng
the Place
When it comes to Chinese cuisine, authenticity or the lack thereof gets people fired up. This tug-of-war between tradition and innovation is being waged in kitchens across Shanghai, where diners are as fickle as they are picky.
Joining the fray is Dao Jiang Hu, named after a Shanghainese colloquialism meaning to stir up gossip or mess around, with a touch of mischief. Here, Chef Betty Ng’s exploration of Chinese regional dishes with an adventurous, price-friendly menu utilizing Western ingredients and techniques has made Dao Jiang Hu one of Shanghai’s more intriguing new openings.the Food
When navigating the fusion dining scene, the
pivotal question is, ‘Does this change make
the original better?’ Oftentimes the answer is
no, but Dao Jiang Hu hits the mark on a few
occasions. For example, the chili and sesame beef
bites (RMB52) whereby crunchy morsels of
battered meat sit on peppery British-style
parmesan crackers see the mix of Eastern
and Western spices come together in a
playful way.
In another instance, a shower of fragrant
julienned shiso leaves and plump, briny
salmon roe (ikura) cross a staple Chinese
crab and egg fried rice (RMB68/88 for small/
large) with a sushi hand roll in a fresh,
attractive manner.
Reminiscent of eight treasures duck
(babao ya), the lotus chicken in rice crust
(RMB188) is a bona fide star where the
whole bird is stuffed with shitake, Yunnan
ham and sticky rice. An irresistibly earthy
flavor permeates the meat, rendering the
accompanying peanut, ginger and sesame
dipping sauce superfluous. It takes one hour
to prepare, so order this dish as soon as you
sit down. Their kung pao prawns (RMB88) fall
short in taste, but excel in an exciting mix of
textures brought on by fresh and dried chili,
leeks, cashews, mountain yam and fried basil.
Tweaking Yunnan cheese (RMB68) with
grilled tomatoes, balsamic glaze and basil
does not improve on the original. An inferior
version of mapo tofu (RMB68) isn’t spicy
enough, and the feta brings nothing to the
table. 2/3
the Vibe
There has been a lot of movement at 20
Donghu Lu this year, but a fresh coat of paint
and some colorful portraits of Shanghainese
aunties on bold backgrounds by artist Basmat
Levin help spice up the atmosphere.
While some dishes give us pause,
it is pretty cool to see such unabashed
experimentation in the kitchen, and for that
we applaud Dao Jiang Hu. Looking past the
food, moderate prices and friendly service
make this an excellent place for casual group
dinners.
total Verdict: 3.5/5
Price: RMB200-300
Who’s going: expats and open-minded locals
Good for: groups, relaxed dinners, fusion
cuisine
20 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu 东湖路20号, 近
淮海中路. Nearest metro: Shaanxi Nan Lu, 5 mins.
Open daily, 11.30am-11pm. (5404 8085)
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BLaCkBird
Popular Café Rebooted at Columbia Circle
By Cristina Ng
the Place Shanghai’s latest and most ambitious lifestyle hub, Columbia Circle, is home to many recent openings. While most of these venues have yet to solidify their fan base, OHA Design’s new iteration of Blackbird already boasts a consistently full house. Perched along the glossy red bar are patrons served by tech-savvy mixologists utilizing sound waves and siphons to flavor cocktails, while Executive Chef Blake Thornley fills the design-forward dining area with snacks and shareable plates.
the Food
At Blackbird, you will want to hit up the snacks for the standout items, while the less memorable mains rein in the chef’s creativity. The uniquely named, smoked eel liver ears (RMB52) stuck with us long after the meal ended. The delicate combination of whipped duck liver, smoked eel, crispy pig ears, soy mint caramel and puffed rice cracker resembles a fish and tastes like heaven.
Also memorable, the complex sweetness
of malt has a natural affinity with the
richness of foie gras (RMB180) just as
honeyed pears and notes of thyme gently
enhance the fatty lobes.
Thornley’s take on pad Thai, which
replaces the noodles with shredded cuttlefish
(RMB80), is wildly addictive. Charred
pineapple, bright citrus, and tempeh-infused
oil round out this dish. Fire-kissed fruit
also enhances pepper seared tuna (RMB92)
by concentrating watermelon’s subtle
sweetness. A sparkly house-made ponzu
sauce provides a refreshing accent to the fish. Unfortunately spiced soft shell crab (RMB72)
with onion, apples and chili doesn’t hold its
own in a crowd of dishes so strong.
When it comes to mains, one of the
biggest successes is a lovely roasted ‘teenage’
chicken (RMB178) served alongside fresh
flavors from cauliflower, coriander, zucchini
and green chili.
In another slam dunk, roasted lamb loin
(RMB135) is perfectly medium rare and
decorated with spiced pumpkin and crispy
date – a key element of our favorite dish at
OHA Eatery. In an involved process,
Thornley mixes pitted dates with
cacao nibs that he flattens and
freezes, before they’re thinly sliced.
These chocolatey coins are dipped
in a corn flour and egg white batter
then deep-fried. We are into it. A
bland bowl of green shell mussels
and pork belly (RMB148) is less
exciting since the small amount of
pork brings little to the table.
A fun trio of mini-courses
irreverently labeled “Cheeses for
Jesus” (RMB110) turns the concept
of a cheese plate on its head and is our
preferred way to end a meal here. A semi-
firm Tomme de Savoie’s mild creaminess
plays well with the jammy goodness of a
caramelized grape puree and pomegranate
reduction. If you must have dessert, try the baked
dark chocolate with malt powder (RMB69).
The familiar flavors of the main ingredients
are a comforting foil to the unique quenelle
of butter-based, smoked red wine ice
cream. It is much better than an overdone
interpretation of a crust-less New York
cheesecake (RMB72) with the unnecessary
addition of fennel. 2.5/3
the Vibe
While we have minor qualms, we enjoy
watching this talented chef work through his
madness in the kitchen. Compared to OHA
Eatery, which can be seen as too complicated,
the risks taken at Blackbird are paying off.
This innovation has worked its way
into the beverages via foam, clarified juices,
infusions and sauces for cocktails so stellar,
they deserve their own article. If you are sick
of the same old same old, you’ll want to check
Blackbird out, stat.
total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB300-500 per person
Who’s going: cool, open-minded diners of all
stripes Good for: adventurous palates, bar snacks,
cocktails
Bldg 8, 1262 Yan’an Lu, by Panyu Lu 延安西路1262号
8号楼, 近番禺路. Nearest metro: Jiaotong University,
10mins.Opendaily,10am-1am(187****0479)
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Latin Woo
Pirata’s Carb-licious Daytime Alter Ego
By Dominic Ngai
the Place
A beloved darling of Shanghai’s fickle-hearted diners, Asian-inspired tapas purveyor Pirata has recently opened a new branch next to
Columbia Circle’s #instafamous swimming pool. Each night, Chef Ling Huang and her team continue to pump out fan favorites like foie gras toasts and spicy clams with Thai basil to a devoted following. During the day, however, this restaurant transforms into Latin Woo, where hearty sandwiches and lunch dishes with a Latin American spin are served.
the Food
Much like Pirata, Latin Woo’s menu is unapologetically
straightforward and down-to-earth. Of the seven sandwich options available, the Cuban burger (RMB60) best illustrates Chef Huang’s ‘no BS’ approach to cooking. In between two thick slices of brioche bun are a beef-chorizo patty, caramelized onion, sunny-side-up egg and a pile of shoestring fries. Hallmarks of a delicious sandwich manifest as you tackle this beast with your bare hands when juices from the peppery meat, runny yolk, along with thin shreds of potatoes trickle down your hands and chin during the messy scuffle.
Huang also does a mean version of the classic El Cubano
(RMB35/68 for small/large). Nothing can go wrong when a thick, fatty slice of roast pork mingles with pickles and cheese in the warm embrace of two crispy Cuban bread slices. If Pirata’s croqueta is a dish that you love (try them if you haven’t), then their spin on the
Medianoche (RMB40/75) would certainly win over your heart. Here, the deep-fried ball of mashed potato, béchamel and ham is flattened like a patty and served inside some toasted brioche alongside mortadella, pickles, cheese, mayo and mustard.
Not in the mood for sandwiches? Latin Woo also has several
lunch set options (RMB78-198), which include a main, two sides and a drink. While it could use a little more heat, the Colombian fried rice with shrimp and chorizo (RMB88) topped with fresh avocado and tomatoes is yet another hit that bridges the gap between Latin American flavors and ingredients and one of the ultimate Chinese comfort food dishes. 2.5/3
the Vibe
Given its popular pool-side location, expect plenty of wanghongs wandering in for a quick bite and refreshments while they take a break from their seemingly endless photo shoots. Latin Woo’s tangy limonada (RMB45) or fresh mango juice (RMB35) are perfect for the occasion, and the cute glasses in which they’re served, as well as the restaurant’s blue-and-white tiled walls, provide another great selfie opportunity. total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB70-100 per person
Who’s going: Pirata’s loyal fans, nearby office workers, dehydrated wanghongs in between poses
Good for: carb-loading, casual lunch
Columbia Circle, 1262 Yan ’an Xi Lu, by Panyu Lu 延安西路1262号, 近番禺路. Nearest Metro: Jiaotong University, 15 mins. Open daily 11.30am-5pm
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Pie Bird
Old-Fashioned Pastry Escape
By Cristina Ng
the Place
It takes guts and a lot of hard work to open up your own restaurant, so we have to give props to Lindsey Wang for her moxie. After searching Shanghai for an apple pie that met her standards, this former fashion designer and self-taught baker decided to fly the coop and open her own pastry haven. The result is Pie Bird, a nostalgic bake shop serving up quiches and desserts photogenic enough to grace the cover of Southern Living.
the Food
In line with the Americana vibes, the display
them for trying. Unfortunately, this version
lacks the requisite mouth-puckering smack of
citrus and graham cracker crust.
Speaking of crust, Wang uses the same
all-butter crust for sweet and savory pies.
While it is sturdy enough to hold its shape,
it could sacrifice beauty pageant points for
some tenderness.
As for the savory options, our favorite is
the salmon and pickle (RMB42/RMB268).
The pickle juices penetrates through the flan-
like egg mixture to mingle with chunks of
cream cheese. We aren’t surprised that it sells
out daily. 2/3
the Vibe
Pie Bird’s quaint environment, warmed by
the scent of baking, is a welcoming place for
a casual lunch or afternoon break. We might
prefer the pies at Al’s Baking Co. and the
(cheaper) quiches at Pain Chaud, but nobody
matches Pie Bird when it comes to options.
1.5/2
total Verdict: 3.5/5
Price: From RMB38
Who’s going: Jing’an locals, pie enthusiasts
Good for: lunch dates, coffee breaks,
afternoon treats
1313 Xinzha Lu, by Shaanxi Bei Lu 新闸路1313号,
近陕西北路. Nearest metro: Nanjing Xi Lu, 20 mins.
Open Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun, 9am-9pm. (5298
0258)
case is filled with quintessential pies.
The cornerstone of summer buffet tables,
strawberry rhubarb (RMB46/RMB298 per
slice/whole) is brimming with sweet berry
juices and a burst of tartness with a lovely
custardy texture.
The best-selling coconut cream pie
(RMB40/RMB258) is the devil of all desserts,
tempting you with its rich filling and freshly
whipped cream. The surprise addition of
chocolate pudding makes this the ultimate
indulgence, but you might need a double
espresso (RMB16) to get through the whole
slice.Key lime (RMB40/RMB258) is hard to
get right outside of Florida, so we admire
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arS & deLeCto
Straight Outta Shibuya
By Cristina Ng
Y
ou’re strolling down Jinxian Lu when the urge for a beautifully crafted cocktail hits. Lady Luck, or perhaps ‘the green fairy’, is on your side as the group behind Tokyo’s Bar Trench (no. 16 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars) has just opened Ars & Delecto. This vintage café-style watering hole, located in Citizen Café’s former home, stocks a wide range of products from the award-winning KA VA LAN Taiwan-made single malt whiskey to absinthe that they serve in a drip.
The double-sided drinks list is one part homage to cocktail making traditions and one part playful exploration. The classic cocktails portion of the menu reads like a Drunk History textbook, while the signatures feature ingredients from around the world, and are given quirky names like Travelers Ship and Going to Acapulco.
Both the bold, boozy New Orleans Vieux Carré (RMB100) and the Travelers Ship (RMB120) include a perfectly transparent
house-made ice cube. While both are smooth sipping, ingredients such as house-infused gin and fennel shrub make the latter’s price tag easier to swallow.
Same goes for Oh Henry (RMB90), a tall mix of blended scotch, Benedictine, house ginger cordial, lemon, soda and bitters. After carefully measuring and stirring, the bartender pours sparkling water with precision, preserving bubbles in a ritual evocative of a tea ceremony.
Other modern classics include the Espresso Rum Martini (RMB90), which tempers dark rum with coffee and orgeat and a perfectly foamy whiskey sour (RMB90). Other favorites include the
Blueberry Hill (RMB105), which blends rum, dry sherry, blueberries, lemon, Angostura bitters and mascarpone cheese for a layered take on English tea.
After heavy sampling, we can’t deny that the drinks are enjoyable. Too often
drinks of this caliber are hidden in overdone speakeasies, so the neighborhood bar vibe is immensely appealing. The only thing holding us back from more regular visits is the price.
222 Jinxian Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu, 进贤路222号, 近陕西南路. Nearest metro: Huaihai Zhong Lu, 3 mins. Sun-Thur 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. (5237
8888)
no CHaSer
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