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Vera Wang Honors Her Chinese Roots
王薇薇以中国根为傲
With nuptials(婚礼) season in full swing, Vera Wang’s wedding dress remains at the top of many a bride’s(婚礼) wish list. The designer, who recently took home the lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, has been innovating in bridal design for years—using color, knits and even throwing fabric into a washing machine.
随着婚礼季的全面展开,王薇薇(Vera Wang)婚纱依然是许多新娘愿望清单上的首选。

王薇薇最近刚拿到美国时装设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)颁发的终生成就奖。

多年来她一直在婚纱设计领域进行创新──运用色彩和编织手法,甚至将面料扔进洗衣机里。

Ms. Wang said that her latest collection is about construction. “I had felt that I had really messed that vocabulary of perfection for brides for a while, where there’s six fabrics to a skirt, ” she said. “I wanted to go back to something that maybe was what I started with, but in a whole new way, and that would be architecture—not simplicity—but maybe minimalism.”
王薇薇说,她的最新婚纱系列重点在于构建。

她说:“我觉得有段时间我确实搅乱了新娘们对于完美的概念,一条裙子有六种布料。

我想回到最原始的东西,但是以一种全新的方式,这种方式就是服装架构──不是简单──而是极简主义。


The Wall Street Journal sat down with the designer in her studio to talk about some of her most memorable wedding and red-carpet looks, business in China and “Tiger Moms.”
《华尔街日报》记者在这位知名设计师的工作室里对她进行了采访,聊到了她记忆里最深刻的几款婚纱和红地毯装扮、她在中国的业务以及她对“虎妈”的看法。

What is your approach to dressing someone for the red carpet ?
你给人设计红毯装用什么方法?
Vera Wang: In red carpet I am more of a wardrober—like Edith Head—a wardrobe designer, where it has to be reflective of the star. Their look, their personality, their body type and what they’re trying to express that night. So that becomes a way more specific journey than what I do in ready to wear.
王薇薇:在红毯装上我更像是一个造型师──就和伊迪丝•海德(Edith Head)一样──衣服必须反映明星的气质。

要看他们的长相,他们的个性、体型以及当晚他们想表现什么。

因此红毯装就比我做成衣的过程要具体得多。

Which red-carpet looks do you get asked about the most?
哪些红毯装被人问得最多?
Michelle [Williams] ranks up there. Charlize [Theron] in the mandarin orange, ’30s-inspired dress, where she wore the pair of brooches. She could’ve definitely been in a film in that dress. She just shot [“The Legend of] Bagger Vance, ”which was a ’30s period piece about a golfer, and she wanted to stay in character for the Oscars, so she did the more retro hair. That’s definitely one of the ones I’ve been asked the most about.
被问起最多的是米歇尔•威廉姆斯(Michelle Williams)。

还有查理兹•塞隆(Charlize Theron)那条以30年代风格为灵感、配一对胸针的橘色长裙。

她穿那条裙子绝对可以拍电影。

当时她刚拍完《重返荣耀》(The Legend of Bagger Vance),那是一部有关30年代一名高尔夫球手的电影,她想为了奥斯卡(Oscars)保留角色的样子,所以做了比较复古的发型。

那绝对是我被问得最多的红毯装之一。

Certainly Sharon Stone after “Basic Instinct” when she came in a blond duchesse tight ball gown with a huge train in the back and no jewelry. Just the blond skin, blond hair, and incredible blond dress. That was sort of my first big Oscar moment. Everything came together to make it magical. It really does take a certain amount of luck and serendipity for all the factors to come together. I’ve dressed amazing women: Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Sandra Bullock, Jennifer Lopez—there have been so many.
当然还有刚拍完《本能》(Basic Instinct)的莎朗•斯通(Sharon Stone),她身穿了一条金色丝硬缎紧身晚礼服,大大的裙裾,没有佩戴首饰。

只有金色的皮肤、金色的头发和光彩照人的金色长裙。

那是我的第一个相当于奥斯卡的时刻。

所有的元素组合在一起,造就了这身不可思议的装束。

所有这些因素组合在一起确实需要一定的运气和缘分。

我为很多优秀的女星设计过红毯装:茱莉亚•路易斯•德利法斯(Julia Louis-Dreyfus)、桑德拉•布洛克(Sandra Bullock)、詹妮弗•洛佩慈(Jennifer Lopez)──太多了。

What about wedding moments?
那婚纱呢?
Chelsea [Clinton], certainly, not only because of her provenance and her family and the fact that they’re an extraordinary American dynasty in terms of politics. The wonderful thing about Chelsea was her desire to go a more fashion route, a more unexpected place. I credit her with that. That’s really all about her own vision of how she saw herself. For a wedding of that pomp and circumstance, it was really very much of a family affair, and so that authenticity came through not only in the actual wedding but in how she looked. I was not dictating to Chelsea. We collaborated together. There was a youth and a romance and a certain acceptance of techniques that were quite complex from a fashion point of view.
当然是切尔西•克林顿(Chelsea Clinton),不仅仅因为她的出身和家庭以及他们在美国政界历史上非同寻常的地位。

切尔西很棒的一点是她渴望走比较时尚和比较出乎意料的路线。


觉得她这点很不错。

最重要的是在于她自己如何看待自己。

对于那种华丽场合的婚礼,确实是一场家族盛事,因此不光婚礼要呈现出真实性,她的装扮也要真实。

我并不是在指导切尔西,我们是在合作。

要表现出青春和浪漫,从时装角度来看相当复杂的技术性细节,也要能让人接受。

Alicia Keys—same night, 6 hours before, in fact I looked at my watch at noon and said, “Alicia’s getting married right now” in the south of France, I believe. She was sort of barefoot and pregnant. She just embraced being pregnant and the fact that she wanted to Grecian and like an Earth goddess. And so: Two very different brides, two very different continents, two very different lifestyles, and yet I think each one felt that she had expressed who she was on her most important day. Even in celebrity weddings I feel like I’m a costumer.
还有艾丽西亚•凯斯(Alicia Keys),她的婚礼也是同一天,不过比切尔西早六个小时。

我中午就看着表说:我猜艾丽西亚现在就在法国南部举行婚礼。

她赤着脚还怀着孕。

她坦然接受自己怀孕,而且想要希腊式婚纱,看起来像大地女神。

因此:两位截然不同的新娘,两块截然不同的大陆,两种截然不同的生活方式,但我认为她们都觉得在自己最重要的日子表现出了真实的自我。

即使在名人的婚礼上我也觉得自己像个服装师。

What about business growth in Asia?
在亚洲的业务发展得怎么样?
Being Chinese, but having grown up in America, first generation, it’s meant a great deal, particularly since my parents passed, that I honor my past and my roots. And that means a great deal to me. You can’t grow up in a Chinese—even American family—and not know that. If you have Chinese parents, you know. They don’t let you forget.
作为在美国长大的第一代华人,在亚洲的发展意义重大,特别是由于我父母已经过世。

我以我的过去和我的根为荣。

这对我意义重大。

在中国家庭你不可能不明白这点,在美国家庭长大也一样。

如果你的父母是华人,你就会懂。

他们不会让你忘记的。

But I have to say in all honesty, there is a business opportunity there that I’ve seen since my father’s businesses were all in Asia that I’ve known about way beyond a decade.
但我得坦白说,由于我父亲的生意都在亚洲,我十多年前就知道了亚洲有商机。

But also there’s an emotional part of this, which is that I feel that Chinese all over the world—and Asians in general—have come into their own. Not only the standards of beauty and commercial success and financial power and all the other ingredients that have made not only China, but South Korea and obviously Japan for so many decades already—there is a new acceptance of Asians and I’m happy I’m living to see it because it really means something to me.
不过也有感情因素,我觉得全世界的华人──以及更大范围的亚洲人──已经独立了。

不光是美的标准和商业成功、金融力量及其他元素让中国独立了,韩国还有日本已经独立了数十
年──亚洲人重新被接受,我很高兴活着目睹了这一点,因为这点对我真的很有意义。

And that would go also for all the prolific amounts of young Asian designers in fashion who are making their mark. I think nothing is making me feel prouder. As someone who maybe was a pioneer, it’s a much deeper rooted journey back to Asia—a much deeper journey than purely financial or commercial. It’s a lot about my soul, probably, and my heart. I’ve always loved fashion and worked in fashion because of that. It was never about being about a celebrity and it was never about being famous. Unfortunately in this day and age, if people don’t know you, no matter how great your product is, they’ll never find it.
同样的,时装界也有许多年轻的亚洲设计师正冉冉升起。

没什么比这更能让我觉得骄傲了。

作为一个可能是先驱的人,我的根深深根植在亚洲──比纯粹的金钱或商业要深得多。

或许最重要的是我的灵魂,还有我的心。

我一直都喜欢时装,而且因为喜欢而在时装界工作。

绝不是因为想成为名人,也绝不是想出名。

不幸的是在如今这个时代,如果人们不认识你,无论你的产品有多好,他们永远都不会找到。

I was the girl always on the other side of the camera at Vogue. And now there’s a certain irony in all of this. And certainly I’m lucky that I have that kind of respect. But for me it’s always been my love of fashion and my love of design and my respect for others in our industry who have achieved such great great great things—some of whom are Asian: Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, I’m not going to go down the list. Really, I stand in awe.
在《时尚》(Vogue)的时候,我曾经老是摄像机另一头的那个女孩。

现在这一切有点讽刺。

可以肯定的是,我很幸运我得到了那种尊重。

但对我来说,最重要的是我对时装的热爱,对设计的热爱,在这个行业有很多其他取得很大成就的人值得我尊敬──有些是亚洲人:川久保玲(Rei Kawakubo)、渡边淳弥(Junya Watanabe)、山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)、三宅一生(Issey Miyake),我不想一一列出名字。

我真的很敬重他们。

Since we’re on the topic of Asians, and Chinese parents, does the topic of the “Tiger Mom” mean anything to you?
既然我们谈到了亚洲人和中国父母的话题,那么“虎妈”这个话题对你有什么意味吗?
My daughters would not say that about me, that’s for sure. I would say that about my mother. I’m a tiger cub—an old tiger cub.
我的女儿不会那样说我,这是肯定的。

我会这样说我的母亲。

我是个“虎崽”──一个上了年纪的“虎崽”。

Both of your daughters are at Ivy League schools, so are they successful because of other reasons?
你的两个女儿都在常春藤联盟学校,那么她们成功是由于其他原因吗?
Actually no thanks to me whatsoever. In all fairness, we were told not to interfere when they were in fourth grade, and we never did. They are their own people. I wouldn’t use the word “successful.” I would say they are their own people, for better or for worse.
实际上我没什么功劳。

公平地说,在她们上四年级时,我们被告知不要干涉她们,之后我们从没干涉过。

她们在做自己。

我不会用“成功”这个词。

我会说不管怎样,她们都在做自己。

Want to Start a Business? Here's Advice from Jack Ma 想创业?听听马云的忠告
Jack Ma is arguably China's most famous -- and successful -- entrepreneur. Though he's no longer running Alibaba Group Holding Ltd. -- the e-commerce company he founded that is gearing up for a multi-billion dollar initial public offering -- Mr. Ma is still proselytizing the benefits of entrepreneurship.
马云或许可以说是中国最知名、最成功的企业家。

尽管他已不再担任阿里巴巴集团(Alibaba Group Holding Ltd.)的首席执行长,但他仍在宣传创业的诸般好处。

他创立的电子商务公司阿里巴巴集团目前正在准备进行规模数十亿美元的首次公开募股(IPO)。

So what's his advice for fledgling entrepreneurs ready to start their own businesses? On Sunday, in front of thousands of young people in Hong Kong at the 'Youth Business Project conference, ' Mr. Ma shared his advice:
那么他对那些准备自己创业、初出茅庐的创业者有什么忠告呢?周日,在香港举行的“伴你启航”(Youth Business Project)大会上,他与数千年轻人分享了自己的忠告:
--There are business opportunities in 80% of industries in China, including the 'green' or environmentally friendly industry. Whenever people have complaints or are dissatisfied with something, that equals a business
opportunity.
──中国有80%的产业存在商机,包括“绿色”产业(即环保产业)。

只要有抱怨的地方,有投诉、不合理的地方就有创业机会。

--Avoid starting businesses with good friends. But once you're running a business, try your best to be good friends with your business partner.
──不要与好朋友一起开公司。

但在运营企业的时候,尽一切努力与你的商业伙伴成为好朋友。

--Always remember the passion you've had at the very beginning of starting the business. Never start a business just to make money.
──永远牢记创业之初自己怀有的激情。

永远不要只为赚钱而创业。

--A Tai Chi practitioner for years, Mr. Ma used the Chinese practice as a metaphor for running his business. 'The idea of practicing Tai Chi also applies in the commercial world, ' he told the audience. Tai Chi emphasizes that 'your attitude in heart affects your shape or form on the outside, ' said Mr. Ma.
──马云练太极多年,他把运营企业比作练太极。

他对听众们说,太极思想同样适用于商界;太极强调的是,你内心的态度可以影响你的外表或外在形式。

Mr. Ma opened a Tai Chi school with Chinese action star Jet Li in Hangzhou, where Alibaba was founded in 1999, by 18 people led by Mr. Ma, a former English teacher.
马云与中国动作影星李连杰在杭州合办了一所太极学校。

1999年,阿里巴巴就是在杭州由马云领导的18个人创立的。

马云曾是一名英语教师。

Running a business is never easy. Even Mr. Ma, who brought the company to become China's e-commerce giant with 24, 000 employees now, said he made numerous mistakes along his journey in building the business. 'The biggest mistake is yet to come, ' he said, half-jokingly.
亲爱的安妮:在我最近离职的公司,有几位同事权倾朝野,他们经常剽窃我的点子和改进建议,竟然屡屡获得嘉奖。

为此,我炒了那家公司的鱿鱼。

可我现在感觉,自己是刚出油锅,又进火坑。

我最近刚去参加了一次会议,会上,我的老板夸Dear Annie: At the company where I worked until recently, I had a couple of colleagues who were master manipulators and who frequently got rewarded for ideas and improvements I came up with. That was one reason why I left that job. But
夸其谈地讲述“他”新想出来的成本削减战略,却闭口不提这主意是我想出来。

在我们公司,员工想出的好点子的数量对其绩效奖金和总体绩效评估影响很大,所以,我担心在这家公司,我的付出可能又无法得到承认了。

我的一位朋友认为我不需要过于担心,因为只要我能让老板颜面有光,那就没有任何问题。

他这种说法对吗?——匿名者
亲爱的匿名者:答案是肯定的。

现在,许多人都认为打造个人品牌和自吹自擂是职场生存的秘笈,所以,你才会对目前的情况感到不安,这很容易理解。

而且,“拥有创造性思维”这样的口碑确实值得妥善维护。

但彼得•韩铎认为,问题在于你防范的对象是谁?韩铎目前担任领导力培训咨询机构戴尔•卡耐基培训(Dale Carnegie Training)的CEO,他认为,点子被同事窃取(正如你之前的那份工now, I seem to have gone from the frying pan into the fire. I just came from a meeting where my current boss talked about his clever new cost-cutting strategy without once mentioning that I thought of the whole thing and laid it out for him.
A big part of our performance bonuses(绩效奖金)and overall evaluations(总体评价) here are based on how many good ideas we have, so it makes me nervous(担心、焦虑)that, once again, I'm not being recognized (承认)for what I'm contributing (贡献). A friend tells me not to worry about it because as long as I keep making my boss look good, I'll be okay. Is he right? — Too Anonymous Dear T.A.: In a word, yes. With all the palaver(拍马屁的人)these days about personal branding (个人品牌)and blowing(吹)your own horn(号角)as essential career(基本职业)survival(生存)skills, it's easy to see why this situation(情况) would make you uneasy(不安). Moreover, it's certainly true that a reputation(名声)as an innovative(创新的)thinker is an asset(优点、有利条件)worth protecting(保护、维护).
According to Peter Handal, the question is, protecting from whom? Handal, CEO of leadership (领导力)development (培训)consultants (咨询机构)Dale Carnegie Training, sees a big
作)与老板听从你的建议、并照此开展工作,两者之间存在很大差别。

这是因为,同事之间是直接的竞争对手关系,而老板则不是。

韩铎认为:“员工需要避免自己的灵感被同事盗用,但这种事情,必须采用友好、低调的方式进行处理。


其中一个方法就是:要学会韬光养晦,并抓住时机,在面对整个团队的时候,比如在集体会议上或者在群发的邮件中,提出自己的想法,做到一鸣惊人。

他强调道:“通过这种方式能让所有人明白,好点子的主人到底是谁。


但如果已经为时过晚,那就不要犹豫,可以在开会的时候这么说:“我最先把这个点子告诉霍华德的时候,他提出了很好的建议……”韩铎表示:“要用委婉的方式表明自己的功劳。

人们会明白的。


但如果是老板占用了员工的点子,却没有说明员工的功劳,这种情况下,员工应该如何面对?韩铎认为:“说句‘谢谢’就足够了。

”difference between peers(同事)who appropriate (窃取)your ideas, as at your old job, and a boss who takes your suggestion and runs with it.
That's because your colleagues(同事)are direct (直接的)competitors(竞争对手)in ways that your boss is not. "You do need to avoid(避免)letting colleagues steal(盗取)your thunder(灵感), but it has to be handled(处理解决)in a friendly, low-key(低调)way," Handal says.
One approach(方法): Keep your best stuff under your hat (保持最好的东西在帽子里)until you get a chance to mention(提及)it to your whole team at once(立即), either in a meeting or in an email to the group. "That way, there's no doubt about(毫无疑问)where the idea came from," he notes(强调).
If it's already too late for that, don't hesitate(犹豫)to speak up(说)in a meeting with something like, "When I first brought up this idea to Howard, he made a really good suggestion(建议)about it…" Says Handel, "Find a subtle(委婉)way to claim credit(信贷、功劳). People will get the point."
By contrast(但是), if it's your boss who's latched on to your idea and neglected(忽略)to attribute (归功)it to you, how should you respond? "Say
毕竟,你前面提到的绩效奖金和评估都是你的顶头上司说了算。

韩铎强调道:“他才是你应该努力打动的人。

头儿在上司面前表现神勇,头儿倚重你提出好的建议,对你绝对没有任何坏处。

”韩铎补充道,作为CEO,他自己有时候会主动让别人以为某些电子是他想来出的,但实际上它们却是下属的功劳。

他解释道:“如果提出建议的人在目标受众中不太受欢迎——比如说,他(她)所在的部门一直与另外一个部门明争暗斗——
那我可能会假称他(她)的主意是我想出来的。

因为,我知道,只有这么做才能使这个主意得到更公平的评判。


他补充道:“当然了,我知道真正想出好点子的人是谁。

你的老板肯定也知道。


罗伯特•赫伯德表示,另外一个需要考虑的因素是:“在大部分大公司中,到一个点子被付诸实施的时候,已经经过许多人的完善,所以,把它归功于一个人头上并不太现实。


赫伯德目前在经营一家名为赫伯德(Herbold Group)的高管培训公司,公司客户包括辉瑞制药(Pfizer)、戴尔公司(Dell)、百事可乐公司(PepsiCo)和惠普公司(Hewlett-Packard)等。

赫伯德曾在微软公司(Microsoft)担任过首席运营官,并出版了《职场领地综合症:地盘之争的危害与治理》(The Fiefdom Syndrome: The Turf Battles that Undermine Careers and Companies -- and How to Overcome Them)一'thank you,'" Handal says.
Those performance bonuses (绩效奖金)and evaluations(评估)you mention are, after all, under your boss's control. "He's the one you're trying to impress," Handal notes. "Making him look smart to higher-ups and having him depend on you for good suggestions is certainly not going to do you any harm."
Handal adds that, as a CEO himself, he sometimes lets people assume he thought up something that really came from someone else. "If the person who suggested it is not the most popular with the intended audience -- let's say, for example, that he or she is in a department that has been feuding with another department -- then I may pull my punches and pretend his or her idea is mine, simply because I know it will get a fairer hearing," he explains.
"But of course, I still know whose it was," he adds. "Your boss does, too."
Another factor to consider, says Robert Herbold: "In most big companies, by the time any idea gets put into practice, it's been modified by so many different people that the idea of any one person getting credit for it is pretty unrealistic."
Herbold runs the Herbold Group, an executive coaching firm whose clients include Pfizer (PFE), Dell (DELL), PepsiCo (PEP), and Hewlett-Packard
书。

赫伯德表示:“员工需要确保两点。

第一,确保老板认为你的工作做得非常非常出色。

”为了保证这一点,他建议,员工应该每隔三到四周便向上司征求一次反馈意见。

“第二,员工希望能在自己的绩效评估中看到,在改进工作方面,自己的贡献超出同事一筹。

如果这两个目标都达到了,那就没有什么可以担心的。

相反,如果一心只想着邀功,肯定会被折磨疯的。


换句话说,你的朋友说得很对。

韩铎表示:“别忘了,最终的目标是要使公司向前发展,而不是因为无聊的办公室政治和个人纠纷而停滞不前。


或者正如罗纳德•里根办公桌上的座右铭,上面写道:“抛弃名利之心,你将无所不能。

”。

反馈:你是否遇到过自己的点子被同事盗用?你如何处理?欢迎留言评论。

(翻译刘进龙)(HPQ). A former chief operating officer at Microsoft (MSFT), Herbold wrote a book called The Fiefdom Syndrome: The Turf Battles that Undermine Careers and Companies -- and How to Overcome Them.
"The two things you want are, first, for your boss to think you're doing your job very, very well," says Herbold. To make sure of that, he recommends asking for feedback as often as every three or four weeks.
"And second, you want your performance evaluations to note that you come up with more than your fair share of ways to improve things," he says. "If both of those are happening, you really have no worries. If you get too hung up on getting credit, it will eat you alive."
In other words, your friend has a point. "Don't forget that the goal is to move the company forward, not to get bogged down in politics and personalities," says Handal.
Or as a plaque on Ronald Reagan's desk used to say: "There is no limit to the amount of good you can do if you don't care who gets the credit." Talkback:Have you ever had a coworker who stole your ideas? How did you handle it? Leave a comment below.
运营企业从来都不容易。

就连马云也说,他在创业过程中犯过无数的错误。

他半开玩笑地说,最大的错误还没有出现。

在马云的领导下,马里巴巴集团现已成为拥有24,000名员工的中国电子商务巨头。

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11 / 11。

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