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12. Draw a grain line to be the hem at each pleat mark.13. Press and pin pleats from hipline to hem.B. DRAPING STRPS1.Pin the center front and center back of the pleated skirt to the dress from.2.Pin along the hipline, keeping the grain straight (Figure 4.88)3.Adjust the pleats to fit the waistline by taking in even amounts at each side of the pleat pickup so that the center of each pleat remains on grain. Be sure that the overall grain remains straight in the skirt. The additional pickup on each pleat will be less at the center front, but every effort should be made to keep the spacing of pleats as uniform as possible. Pin pleats down as they are fitted over the hip area.ing style tape, mark the waistline (Figure4.89).5.Mark each peat from waistline to hipline.6.Remove the skirt from the dress form. True the waistline, and true each pleat from the waistline to hiplne.7.Leaving seam allowance, trim away excess muslin at the waistline （Figure4.90).Kick Pleats and Inverted PleatsKick pleats and inverted pleats are generally used to give walking ease to an otherwise straight skirt. A kick pleat is a simple sidepleat inserted at the centerback or center front. It ismost often used at the center back of a basic skirt. An inverted pleat is a single box pleat usually placed at the center front (Figure4.91).To drape these pleats,fold the muslin at the center front or center back according to the type and depth of the desired pleat,before the skirt is draped.Pleats Inserted in an Off-Grain SeamWhen a pleat is to be inserted in an off-grain seam, as in a gored skirt or a princess dress, it may be draped as a side pleat or as an inverted pleat. These pleats may be wider at the hem than at the upper edge in harmony with the general flare of the skirt. A.DRAPING STERS FOR SIDE PLEATS (Figure 4.92).1. add the fabric for the depth and shape of the desired pleat after the flare has been established at the seam.2. After the skirt has been trued and the seam pinned together to the top of the pleat,fold the pleat in the direction desired and pin into place along the upper edge.3. See the finished pattern (Figure4.93).B.DRAPING STERS FOR A SIMPLE INVERTED PLEAT--This pleat will have aseam showing at the center (Figure 4.94).1. Add enough fabric to from a complete pleat on each side of the seam.2. Pin the seam at the center of the pleat together.3. Fold the pleat at each side of the seam into place, and pin along the upper edge of the pleat.4. See the finished pattern (Figure4.95).C.DRAPING STERS FOR A TWO-PIECE INVERTED PLEAT--This pleat will haveno seam showing at the center, but it will have seams at the inside folds of the inverted pleat (Figure 4.96).1. Add enough fabric to form the depth of each pleat at each side of the seam.2. Remove from the dress form and cut a piece of fabric for the inside of the pleat by tracing the shape of the pleat extension at each side of the seam onto a folded piece of muslin.3. Leaving a seam allowance, trim excess fabric from the seam extensions and the insert(Figure 4.97).4.5.Pin the insert to the extensions at the long seams and shape the top of the pleat as illustrated (Figure).6.Pin to skirt along the upper edge of the pleat (Figure 4.98).The Skirt a Built-Up WaistlineMost skirts may be designed with a built-up waistline. When are separate, these skirts are finished with a facing instead of the usual waistband. Exceptions are flared skirts and those that are designed with a dartless hip yoke. However, these skirts may also be designed without a waistband and finished with a facing, but they will have to end at the normal waistline or below. The lower edge of the facing for a built-up waistline skirt ends at the normal waistline. The skirt should be interfaced above the normal waistline so that it is held firmly in place. Because there is no waistband, the zipper or button closure must extend to the upper edge of the skirt (Figure 4.99).A.PREPARATION OF MUSLIN1.Tape the new, built-up waistline onto the dress form.2.Tear the muslin following the instructions for the type of skirt that is to be developed, but add the height of the skirt extension above the normal waistline to the lengthwise grain measurement.3.Draw the center front lengthwise grain line 1 inch from the torn edge.4.On the lengthwise grain line, mark the upper edge ofthe skirt 2 inches down fromthe upper edge of the muslin.5.On the dress form, measure the distance from the taped upper edge of the skirt to the standard waistline.6.Mark the standard waistline and hip level on the center front grain line; draw a cross grain line at the hip level (Figure 4.100).B. DRAPING STERS1.Pin the center front at the upper edge of the skirt, the standard waistline, and the hipline.2.Drape the skirt as desired:a. In a skirt with a side seam, extend the darts to the upper edge. Darts will be deepest at the standard waistline. Darts may also be released below the standard waistline forming tucks ormsoft pleats. Leave adequate ease in the skirt above the waistline to accommodate the facing and the inter-facing . The amount of ease will depend on the thickness of the finished fabric.b. In a gored skirt, extend and shape the gores above the standard waistline (Figure 4.101).3.Mark and true, following the instructions for the skirt style being draped as given in the applicable section of this chapter.4.To develop the facing, pin together all seams and/or darts except the side seam; trace the skirt outline above the standard waistline.5.See the finished pattern(Figure 4.102).Pants, trouser, slacks-whatever we call them--have become a staple in virtually every woman's wardrobe. They are worn everywhere at any time of the day or night. They may cling to every curve of the body, or they may be straight and tailored. For evening or loungewear,they are often full and flowing. They may be shaped like a skirt:pegged, tapered, or flared. Pants may be long, or they may stop short at any length (Figure 5.1).A bifurcated pants from is essential for draping pants or trousers. These forms may have legs shaped only to the realistically molded to the ankle. The full-length forms are preferable because they give a better sense of proportion, permitting the designer to consider the length as well as the width of the legs. When no pants form is available, pants must be drafted from measurements (Figure 5.2).Basic Straight TrousersA.PERPARATION OF MUSLIN1.Tape the hipline on the pants form.2.Tear muslin for both front and back:a.Length-desired length of trousers plus 2 inches plus hem or cuff allowance; for a cuff, allow 2 times the finished cuff plus hemb.Width-19 inches3.On the pants form, determine the length of the crotch by holding the L-squareso that the short end passesbetween the legs at the highest possible point and the long end rests against the center front of the torso. The measurement that is then indicated on the L-square at the waistline is the crotch length including 411inches ofease. This ease is the average amount of ease used in straight,comfortabletrousers. More closely fitted pants have less crotch ease, usually 43inch;and looselyfittedpants,such aspajamas,may have more ease allowance (Figure 5.3).4. On the muslin front, draw a lengthwise grain line for the front 4 inches from the torn edge.5. On the muslin back, draw a lengthwise grain line for the center back 6 inches from the torn edge.6. On the center front andcenter back grain lines, mark down the upper edge 2 inches forthewaistlineintersection.7. Draw a crosswise grain line on the front and back 7 inches down from the 2-inch waistline mark for the hipline.8. Draw a crotch level grain line below the hipline at the correct distance from the waistline (Figure 5.4).9. Establishthecrotchextensions on the crotch level cross grain line:a. Front-one quarter of the distance from the center front to the side seam at the hiplevel (Figure 5.5).b.Back-one half the distancefrom the center back to the side seam at the hip level (Figure 5.6).10. At the crotch extensions, drop straight grain lines parallel to the center front and center back.11. On the center back grain line, mark the half-way point between the waistline and the crotch level.12. At the center back and waistline intersection, measure up41 inch and in43inch; from this point,connect a diagonal line to the half-way mark on the center back grain line.13. At the intersection of thecenter back and the crotch level, draw a diagonal line 2 inches long (Figure 5.7). 14. Place the French curve so that it touches the center back at the half-way mark, the diagonal line, and the crotch level; draw the back crotch curve as illustrated (Figure5.8).15. At the intersection of the center front and the crotch level, draw a diagonal line211 inches long.16. Placing the French curveso that it touches the center front at the hipline, the diagonal line, and the crotch crotch curve (Figure 5.9)17.Add seam allowance at the crotch curve, and trim away excess muslin; clip into the seam allowance at the curve at frequent intervals.B. DRAPING STEPS1.Before placing the muslin on the form, overlap the frontand back muslin at the inseam, pin the front and back crotch points together, and pin along the inseam to the ankle (Figure5.10).2.On the pants form, pin the center front and center back at the waistline and the hipline (Figure 5.11).3.Pin both the front and back along the hipline, leaving adequate ease.4.Pin the front and back together at the hipline and side seam intersection (Figure5.12).5.For both the front and back,keeping the lengthwise grain straight in the center of the princess panel, smooth up from the hipline to the waistline, and pin at the waistline with a pinch for ease.6.Pin the back and front together at the side seam from the crotch level to the waistline.7.Fit the waistline with darts, pleats, or gathers as desired. The center front grain line may be shifted slight off grain forasmoother fit.8.Maintaining the balanced grain, pin the leg sections together at the side seam tapering slightly, if desired. The inseam may also be tapered to correspond.9.Mark the side be seam, the inseam at the ankle, the waistline, and darts, or pleats.10.Remove the trousers from the form and true.11.Leaving seam allowances, trim away excess muslin at the waistline, side seam , and inseam,12.Pin the trousers together at the side seam and inseam. Replace the trousers on the pants form; check the fit and make any necessary adjustments.13.See the finished pattern (Figure 5.13). Fitted,Tarered ,Fessed, or Flazred PantsPants can be shaped to fit the body in infinite ways. They may fit closely around the derriere and upper leg and then fall and pegged at the waistline and then tapered to fit closely at the ankle; or they may flare out in varying degrees from any point on the leg.A.PREPARATION OF MUSLIN-For a closer fit around the derriere, follow the instructions for basic trousers, with the following exceptions:1.Reduce the crotch ease to43inch.2.Reduce the back crotch extension by43inch.3.At the center back and waistline intersection, measure in411 inch, and up41inch (Figure 5.14).。