拟南芥种植手册_tair
拟南芥种植及处理基本方法
培养基MS培养基 (Sigma公司)B5培养基 (pH 5.5)Content mg/L Content mg/L Content mg/LKNO3 2500ZnSO47H2O 2.0Nicoti nic1CaCl22H2O 150 H3BO3 3.0 Thiami ne HCl 10 MgSO47H2O 250 KI 0.75 Pyri ndox ine 1 NaH2PO4'H2O 150 Na2MoO42H2O 0.25 m-I no sitol 100 FeSC47H2O 27.8 CoCl26H2O 0.025 Glyci ne 200 MnSO4H2O 10 Na2EDTA 37.3 Ki netin 0.1 CuSO45H2O 0.025 IAA 0.1-1改良的1/4 Hoagland 培养液(mM, pH6.0):Content mM Content mMKNO3 1.25Zn SO40.002Ca(NO3)2 1.50 H3BO3 0.050MgSO40.75 KCl 0.050KH2PO4 0.5 (NH4)6Mo7°24 0.075FeSq0.072 CuSO40.0015Na2EDTA 0.072 Na2SiO30.12植物材料的常规种植拟南芥种子均匀地播撒于1/3 B5液体培养基浸润的蛭石上,塑料膜遮盖至种子萌o发,揭开膜,让其自然生长,适当间苗,烤苗至蛭石表面干燥后加水。
置于23 C,16/8 h的光照培养间中生长。
3拟南芥种子的表面灭菌处理1)拟南芥种子在4 C下春化3-5天2)在超净台上用70%酒精处理种子2-5分钟3)弃去酒精,用无菌水洗1-2次。
4)将种子用15% Bleach (KAO公司)处理15分钟,间歇振荡。
5)用无菌水洗4-6次,每次充分振荡混匀。
6)将种子悬浮在灭菌的0.1% Agar中。
7)均匀地将种子播撒在B5培养基平皿中。
4植物材料的水培体系拟南芥种子经表面灭菌处理后均匀播撒于1/2 MS固体培养基上,10-15粒/ 皿,生长2周后,小心地将其转入水培体系中。
拟南芥的栽培
拟南芥的栽培拟南芥生长周期短,6∽8周即可完成从种子到种子的整个生活周期。
1.播种腐殖质土:珍珠岩或赭石=2 : 1,播种前土壤混合物进行高压灭菌30 min,以杀死可能混有的害虫。
通常使用培养皿点播拟南芥种子,点播时使用琼脂糖浓度为0.8 %的1/2 MS培养基进行点播种子(因为该琼脂糖浓度有利于在不伤根的情况下取出培养基中的小苗,移植至土壤中)。
直接土壤播种后,将播有种子的容器移至低温条件下(2∽4 ℃)2∽4 d,以破除种子休眠(对新鲜收获的种子尤为重要),在种子发芽期间必须保持土壤高湿度,故容器需要用塑料膜覆盖1周左右揭去。
2.生长发育条件控制光:光强度为120∽150 umol/(m2•s),光周期为16 h光照,8 h黑暗。
长日照促进拟南芥提前开花,使叶数量减少且降低种子生成,较短日照有利于营养生长。
温度:拟南芥最适生长温度为25 ℃左右(对于迟开花拟南芥生态型来说,幼苗期要给以4 ℃左右几周的春化处理,以破除休眠)。
水分:拟南芥两片真叶开始伸展之前必须避免干旱,但供水过量会引起土表藻类和真菌的生长;当真叶长出后,灌水频率可相应减少(如每周一或两次),至长角果充实阶段必须保证水分供应,以利于种子形成,但当长角果进入成熟阶段时,较低湿度(< 50 %)是有利的。
营养:营养贫瘠的植株叶呈微淡绿色,植株矮、提早开花,且种子着生少;营养充足的健壮植株呈暗绿色。
防止杂交:防止昆虫进入导致杂交,各品系种植之间的距离>20 cm,从而防止不同品系的花相互接触。
3.拟南芥的花浸法注意事项:当拟南芥花序枝刚伸出时,摘除初生花序枝,促进其长出更多的花序枝,并移至长日照(16∽24 h光照/d)下生长,约一周后进行转化。
正常的生长条件下,转化约3周后收获种子以供鉴定。
确认再生植株为转基因植株的方法有:Southern印迹,报告基因的活性测定和组织化学等鉴定。
在取得一系列突变体后,可用功能互补的转化法来鉴定一个基因,即:用某种途径取得的DNA片段去转化一个功能缺失的突变体,如果转化后能够补偿基因功能突变表型的话,那么这个片段即为含目的基因片段。
拟南芥盆栽方案
拟南芥盆栽方案拟南芥(学名:Arabidopsis thaliana)是一种小型的一年生植物,因其生命周期短、易于培养和遗传实验的可行性,被广泛应用于植物科学研究中。
在本文中,我们将提供一个拟南芥盆栽方案,以帮助那些对这一植物进行自家种植的人。
1. 材料准备- 拟南芥种子:可在植物学实验室、种子公司或在线购买。
- 盆:选择适宜大小的盆,保证拟南芥根系能够充分扩展。
- 泥土:使用适宜的培养土,可在花草市场或园艺店购买。
- 平底盘或托盘:用于放置盆,以避免水滴在室内滴落。
2. 盆栽步骤2.1 准备盆土选择质地疏松、排水良好的培养土。
可以将培养土轻轻湿润,但避免过于湿润,以免引发根部腐烂。
2.2 播种将拟南芥种子均匀撒在培养土表面上,并轻轻压实,不要完全覆盖种子。
拟南芥种子较小,所以要小心操作,以确保均匀分散。
2.3 浇水使用喷壶或水壶从顶部轻轻喷洒水,保持培养土湿润。
避免使用喷头过大或水流过大的工具,以免种子被冲走。
2.4 光照与温度控制拟南芥适宜在温度适宜、充足的光照下生长。
将盆栽置于明亮的窗户旁或人工照明设备下。
室温保持在20-25摄氏度之间。
2.5 生长环境调节拟南芥对于光照的要求较高,因此要经常转动盆栽,以保证植株各个方向都能得到充足的光照。
如果环境光线不足,可以补充使用植物专用灯。
2.6 浇水与施肥保持培养土湿润,但避免过度浇水,以免引发根系病害。
约每周浇水一次,根据环境湿度和季节的变化做适当调整。
在生长过程中可以适时施加适量的植物营养液,以促进拟南芥的生长和发育。
3. 生长管理3.1 害虫防治定期检查拟南芥植株,如发现害虫如蚜虫、螨虫等,可以使用适量的杀虫剂进行处理,但要遵循产品说明。
3.2 避免拥挤随着拟南芥生长,植株之间可能会产生拥挤。
在植株茁壮成长后,适当间隔并摘除较弱的植株,以保证光照和营养的充足供给。
3.3 测量和记录生长数据观察拟南芥的生长情况,使用尺子或其它测量工具记录植株的高度、叶片数量等数据,以便后续分析比较。
拟南芥种植方法.doc
培养基上点种子:1.种子处理1.1 种子消毒处理在培养基中点样前,必须对种子进行消毒,防止感菌,具体方法为:先将种子倒在干净的纸上,挑去大的杂质,再将种子倒入EP管中,加入1mL70%酒精,振荡10min,将种子放在超净台中吹干。
1.2 点样将消毒处理后的种子,可以利用牙签点到培养基上,每次仅点一粒种子,根据培养皿的大小,确定一个里面能够点多少个种子,每个90mm培养皿上大约种30粒种子,防止植株长大后影响根与子叶的发育。
1.3 春化种子点样完毕后,将培养基密封,置于4℃冰箱里放置72h后,放回温室。
土培法:1.种种子前,要将营养土用自来水混匀后,121℃灭菌30min,待土冷却后,装入种植拟南芥的方盒中,再将方盒放入红色托盘中。
2.将要点的种子平铺在称量纸上,用牙签蘸取一粒种子点在营养土上,每点一个小盒时都用牙签做标记,以免遗种某个盒子。
(每个小盒子种5粒种子,每个大方盒子种9粒种子)3.将点了拟南芥种子的托盘置于22℃温室,并用一个干净的托盘盖在上面,大约两天后就可以打开上面的托盘,待植物长出4片叶子时,可以根据自己的实验需求对植物的幼苗进行取舍。
4.植株生长条件的控制幼苗移植后将花盆置于温室内,保证温室温度恒定在22℃,空气湿度70—80%,光照强度100—150μmol/m2/s,每天浇两次纯净水,上午9点左右一次,下午5点左右一次;一周浇一次营养液(1平匙溶于1L水中),营养液要灌在盆底。
浇水注意事项:1)水不可以浇的过多或过少,用手捏起一些土能挤出水来说明就有点太湿;2)水要浇均匀,托盘四个角的方向如果喷壶喷不到,可以用挤瓶均匀地喷一些水;3)用喷壶浇水时,喷壶的水柱不可以太大,以免把植物连根拔起;4)当植株出现花芽时,一定要保证水分的供应,促进果实的发育。
当植株结有豆荚时,可以适当的减少供水量,每两三天浇一次水便可,以利于种子的成熟。
开花后的植物不能再用喷壶浇水,要从盆底灌水,但不可以一次性灌太多水;5)在盆底灌水后,待植物吸收完水后,可以将盆底多余的水分倒出来;6)拟南芥受到胁迫判断标准:叶柄发紫,叶片发黄,开花期提前等;7)如果做生理实验,植物一旦受到胁迫,需要把植物丢弃,重新种植,以免实验数据不准确。
实验室拟南芥常用种植方法
贮存过程中影响种子寿命的主要是温度和含水量。温度越高,含水量越多,则种子寿命 越短。因此刚采集的种子必须要经过干燥才能保存。最安全的种子干燥的方法是将采集的种 子置于干燥环境下,在室温条件下放置 2-3 周便可。
种子的贮存可根据贮存的目的不同,分为短期、中期、长期贮藏。一般短、中期贮藏是 将种子贮存在 4℃,而长期贮藏是保持在-20℃温度下。当取用长期贮藏的种子前,先将贮 存种子的容器预热到室温,或者将其置于 37℃水浴 10min,以尽量使冰害降至最低。为了 及时了解贮存过程合适与否,一般对种子定期进行生活力测定,而种子发芽率是测定其生活 力的最佳选择。
拟南芥实验室的常用种植方法刘金亮西北师范大学生命科学学院730070摘要拟南芥由于其生活周期短种植和生长不受季节限制并且为自花受粉植物而作为实验最常用的模式植物因此拟南芥如何能够在实验室较好较快地生长便成为实验成败的关键由于拟南芥存在多种生态性各实验室均有各自适合栽培种植的方法如在土壤石英砂琼脂等均可种植但土壤种植种子萌发率低生长过程中受其它方面影响大故本方法重点介绍利用琼脂无菌培养基培养幼苗和移植相结合的方法来快速种植拟南芥该过程主包括种子的处理琼脂无要菌培养基上种子的培养和幼苗的移植以及成熟后种子的保存
过厚或过薄。过薄,点种子后水分蒸发快,培养基有可能干涸;过厚,种子发芽后,有可能 使叶子浸入平板中,影响幼苗后期发育并且过厚平板易开裂。
1.2 种子处理 1.2.1 种子消毒处理
在培养基中点样前,必须对对钟子进行消毒,防止感菌,具体方法为:利用 1%Naclo 浸泡 10min,离心后,倒掉 Naclo,然后用无菌蒸馏水洗涤 5-6 遍,时间间隔为 1min,注意 的是 Naclo 浓度不易过高和种子处理时间不易过长,有可能伤害种子。
拟南芥种植方法
培养基上点种子:1.种子处理1.1 种子消毒处理在培养基中点样前,必须对种子进行消毒,防止感菌,具体方法为:先将种子倒在干净的纸上,挑去大的杂质,再将种子倒入EP管中,加入1mL70%酒精,振荡10min,将种子放在超净台中吹干。
1.2 点样将消毒处理后的种子,可以利用牙签点到培养基上,每次仅点一粒种子,根据培养皿的大小,确定一个里面能够点多少个种子,每个90mm培养皿上大约种30粒种子,防止植株长大后影响根与子叶的发育。
1.3 春化种子点样完毕后,将培养基密封,置于4℃冰箱里放置72h后,放回温室。
土培法:1.种种子前,要将营养土用自来水混匀后,121℃灭菌30min,待土冷却后,装入种植拟南芥的方盒中,再将方盒放入红色托盘中。
2.将要点的种子平铺在称量纸上,用牙签蘸取一粒种子点在营养土上,每点一个小盒时都用牙签做标记,以免遗种某个盒子。
(每个小盒子种5粒种子,每个大方盒子种9粒种子)3.将点了拟南芥种子的托盘置于22℃温室,并用一个干净的托盘盖在上面,大约两天后就可以打开上面的托盘,待植物长出4片叶子时,可以根据自己的实验需求对植物的幼苗进行取舍。
4.植株生长条件的控制幼苗移植后将花盆置于温室内,保证温室温度恒定在22℃,空气湿度70—80%,光照强度100—150μmol/m2/s,每天浇两次纯净水,上午9点左右一次,下午5点左右一次;一周浇一次营养液(1平匙溶于1L水中),营养液要灌在盆底。
浇水注意事项:1)水不可以浇的过多或过少,用手捏起一些土能挤出水来说明就有点太湿;2)水要浇均匀,托盘四个角的方向如果喷壶喷不到,可以用挤瓶均匀地喷一些水;3)用喷壶浇水时,喷壶的水柱不可以太大,以免把植物连根拔起;4)当植株出现花芽时,一定要保证水分的供应,促进果实的发育。
当植株结有豆荚时,可以适当的减少供水量,每两三天浇一次水便可,以利于种子的成熟。
开花后的植物不能再用喷壶浇水,要从盆底灌水,但不可以一次性灌太多水;5)在盆底灌水后,待植物吸收完水后,可以将盆底多余的水分倒出来;6)拟南芥受到胁迫判断标准:叶柄发紫,叶片发黄,开花期提前等;7)如果做生理实验,植物一旦受到胁迫,需要把植物丢弃,重新种植,以免实验数据不准确。
拟南芥种植
拟南芥种植方法
一.拟南芥生长条件
拟南芥生长的适宜温度白天为22-24℃左右,夜温最好比日温低2℃。
拟南芥在日照长于12小时下才会开花,一般拟南芥生长室的日照长度定于14-16h为佳,土壤湿度70%—80%,营养土:蛭石=1:1,3—4天浇一次营养液,从底盘浸入。
二.种子处理
1.取适量种子置于标记好的1.5ml离心管中,加入1 ml 70%乙醇轻微振1 min;
2.去乙醇,加入1 ml体积分数为10%的NaClO (次氯酸钠), 消毒5~10 min;
3.吸去NaClO, 用无菌水冲洗种子5次后, 加入600μl无菌水;
4.取适量拟南芥种子至10 ml 离心管中,加入0.05%的琼脂悬浮,置于4℃冰箱低温春化处理2-3 天。
三.土壤培养
将已春化处理的拟南芥种子,用消过毒的牙签或者移液枪将种子,点播在土壤中,一盆2—3颗即可,将花盆放入有水的底盘中,框中的水就会通过花盆底部的孔渗上来,待花盆中的基质湿透后即可点播。
用保鲜膜覆盖1-2天后揭膜,如果苗很弱,则在此基础上还需多覆盖1天。
当到4叶期时,要适当移苗,每盆一株。
小心轻轻用镊子拨开周围土壤,连根取出小苗(注意不要伤害根部)。
苗期不使用营养液,移栽后3-4天使用一次营养液,期间视情况浇水,但不要在底盘中始终保持水层。
在开始收籽期,不再需要过多的水分,可保持底盘干燥,此时每隔7-10天加一次水即可。
在种荚变黄,变干时可以收籽。
将种子抖落在纸上,用金属滤网过一下以除去杂质,将种子装入写了标记的小纸袋中,放于干燥的环境中让种子进一步干燥后,封存于1.5ml试管中,切记越干越好,长期保存的种子必需要干燥保存到4℃。
拟南芥的实验方案种植
拟南芥的实验室种植方案————蛭石培养法一.实验原理拟南芥是十字花科植物,个体小,生活周期短,种植和生长不受季节限制,自花传粉,是植物实验常用的模式植物。
蛭石是一种天然、无毒的矿物质,在高温作用下会膨胀的矿物。
它是一种比较少见的矿物,属于硅酸盐。
有离子交换的能力,它对土壤的营养有极大的作用。
栽培介质需要有良好的排水性和透气性,以防止过湿引起真菌和昆虫幼虫的滋生。
使用泥炭土,蛭石,珍珠岩的混合土壤作培养介质能达到良好的效果。
二.实验材料和试剂花盆、铲子、小型喷水壶、薄膜、橡胶手套、尖嘴洗瓶、滤纸、烧杯、营养液、蛭石、泥炭土、珍珠岩、人工培养箱、4︒C冰箱。
三.实验步骤(2)种子处理春化种子:将种子放置于烧杯内,4︒C冰箱下,保持3-4天。
(3)土壤混合物的配置泥炭土:蛭石:珍珠岩=1:1:1。
用铲子放入花盆中,用营养液浇灌至湿润。
2.播种:将种子倒在滤纸上,轻轻震荡纸张,可均匀播撒,用薄膜(既保证所需温度又保证所需湿度)封住花盆口,薄膜扎孔(以便后继浇灌营养液)。
3.培养:(1)人工培养箱,温度23︒C,光强240 µmol·m-2·s-1,16h光照, 8 h 黑暗, 相对湿度60%~70%。
(2)在培养时浇培养液,用尖嘴洗瓶浇灌,1-2天浇一次。
(3)种子发芽后,及时揭开薄膜,幼苗生长过程中及时浇灌营养液和适宜的水分。
四. 实验结果预测3-4天后种子可发芽,此时,及时揭去薄膜,继续培养植株,作实验观察。
五.注意事项(1)实验过程中佩戴橡胶手套。
(2)幼苗浇灌水分不易过量,以避免根部缺氧死亡。
(3)种子播种时要均匀。
(4)配置土壤混合物时,要保持珍珠岩完整和土质蓬松。
五. 参考文献和资料翟中和,丁明孝,王喜中.细胞生物学(第四版).高等教育出版社。
刘金亮. 拟南芥实验室常用的种植方法.西北师范大学,生命科学学院,730070。
张庆友,孙新月,兰伟,许树成,祝雪兰. 拟南芥实验室种植栽培要领. 生物学通报. 2015年第50卷第七期。
拟南芥种植及处理基本方法
1 培养基MS培养基(Sigma公司)B5培养基(pH 5.5)改良的1/4 Hoagland 培养液(mM, pH6.0):2 植物材料的常规种植拟南芥种子均匀地播撒于1/3 B5液体培养基浸润的蛭石上,塑料膜遮盖至种子萌发,揭开膜,让其自然生长,适当间苗,烤苗至蛭石表面干燥后加水。
置于23 o C,16/8 h的光照培养间中生长。
3 拟南芥种子的表面灭菌处理1)拟南芥种子在4 C下春化3-5天。
2)在超净台上用70%酒精处理种子2-5分钟。
3)弃去酒精,用无菌水洗1-2次。
4)将种子用15% Bleach (KAO公司)处理15分钟,间歇振荡。
5)用无菌水洗4-6次,每次充分振荡混匀。
6)将种子悬浮在灭菌的0.1% Agar中。
7)均匀地将种子播撒在B5培养基平皿中。
4 植物材料的水培体系拟南芥种子经表面灭菌处理后均匀播撒于1/2 MS固体培养基上,10-15粒/皿,生长2周后,小心地将其转入水培体系中。
水培体系是由培养皿及起支撑作用的锡箔纸组成。
培养皿中盛适当的液体培养基(通常用上述改良的1/4 Hoagland培养液);锡箔纸上留出相距适当的小洞后,盖于培养皿之上。
将拟南芥幼苗的根小心地经由锡箔纸上的小洞浸入培养液中。
塑料膜覆盖,2-3天后揭去。
整个体系置于光照培养间中生长,每3-6天更换一次培养液。
5 拟南芥T-DNA插入突变体的筛选方法到网站/tdnaprimers.html输入salk号设计引物LP、RP T-DNA LB:LBb1: GCGTGGACCGCTTGCTGCAACTLBa1: TGGTTCACGTAGTGGGCCATCG用于PCR扩增。
采用双引物法,分别用LP+RP,BP+RP扩增基因组DNA。
方法:1)将拟南芥突变体种子播种于MS培养基平皿中,生长2周后,将其转入蛭石中,待长至抽苔期准备DNA的提取。
2)DNA提取缓冲液的配制:3)剪取一片叶于1.5 ml Eppendorf管中,液氮充分研磨。
拟南芥栽培方法
拟南芥栽培方法
1.装土:泥炭(tref型号705#)和蛭石的配比为2:1,混匀装在盆里压实,用1倍的MS 大量浸盆,基质一定要完全湿润。
2.泡种子:取适量拟南芥种子装在2 ml的离心管中,加入1 ml 水放在4度冰箱3 d,打破种子休眠。
3.播种:播种前,土面喷水至湿润。
将种子到在滤纸上,用牙签或竹签挑起种子放在土面上,建议一个花盆中播5颗。
播种完毕盖上透明盖子,放在培养箱中,一般2d就可以发芽。
4.待长至20 d左右,即可揭盖,再浇一次MS大量。
生长期间应每隔2-3 d观察一次生长状况,补充水分。
5.主要虫害是蚜虫和一种小飞蝇(幼虫在土壤中以拟南芥的根为食),一般用吡呀酮,灭蝇胺防治。
拟南芥培育方法
拟南芥培育方法—通用指南一、原理拟南芥作为高等植物的模式生物被全世界的植物生物学实验室广泛研究。
然而,照顾好这种小植物可能不是那么容易。
这里介绍一个马里兰大学帕克学院的HevenSze实验室的通用指南。
Sze实验室及其他实验室的成员为建立这个在实验室培育拟南芥的通用指南做出了许多努力。
二、步骤1. 准备种植用土我们使用Miracle-Gro混合土(2立方英尺一袋)与Miracle-Gro珍珠岩(8夸脱一袋)来培养拟南芥,在一个可以放下2袋混合土的大容器中和土,1袋混合土(2立方英尺)混入半袋珍珠岩(4夸脱)。
注意:Sze实验室在装土之前经常将土灭菌!(方法如下)(1)将干土放入灭菌容器中,直至与顶部相差一英寸,将土拍实。
(2)用铝箔纸将容器封住,在每一个容器上放一张灭菌用胶带,缠好。
确保容器外没有土,放入灭菌锅。
(3)用常规/秒速/快速模式灭菌30~50 min,灭菌模式及时间取决于灭菌的容器数量。
(4)当温度降至室温,将土放入花盆,轻轻压实。
记住将灭菌土保存好,避免种子或菌类污染。
灭过菌的土至少可以使用两星期,如无需要请不要多次灭菌。
(5)将花盆用去离子水浸没(不要超过土表面)用humidomes覆盖,使其吸水3-6小时或过夜。
吸水后应该还保存约1英寸高的水,如果没有请添水。
(6)此时的土可以用于种植拟南芥。
2. 种子消毒方法A(1)取适量种子(野生型、突变体或互补株系)置于一个EP管中,加1 ml 消毒溶液。
消毒溶液:20%Chlorox消毒液0.05%Tween-20用新灭过菌的无菌水配制。
(2)用振荡器以最大速度震荡20-30秒。
(3)放置7-10 min,偶尔震荡一下。
(4)8 000 rpm 离心5秒。
(5)仔细将水倒出。
(6)加1 ml 无菌水,震荡重旋种子。
(7)8 000 rpm 离心5秒,倒去上清。
(8)重复步骤6-7,重复四次。
(9)将灭菌的种子移到底部铺有无菌滤纸的小Fisher盘(100×15 mm)中。
拟南芥的种植
一、拟南芥播种种子装入dorf管内,20μl种子加1ml 75% 乙醇消毒1分钟;吸去乙醇,加入1ml 50%次氯酸钠:50%无菌水:0.05%吐温(or 5%漂白粉),震荡洗涤15-20分钟;稍离心使种子沉于下部,吸去次氯酸钠或漂白粉,加入无菌蒸馏水清洗(清洗3次,每次洗完后稍离心,吸净水分);将种子用接种环均匀铺于MS培养基上,用封口膜封口,放入4℃冰箱内冷处理2-3天(春化)。
MS培养基的用量:直径为9cm的培养皿用25ml,直径为6cm的培养皿用12.5ml。
二、MS固体培养基制备1.培养基母液的配制和保存MS培养基含有近30种营养成分,为了避免每次配制培养基都要对这几十种成分进行称量,可将培养基中的各种成分,按原量的20倍或200倍分别称量,配成浓缩液,这种浓缩液叫做培养基母液。
这样每次使用时,取其总量的1/20(50 mL)或1/200(5 mL),加水稀释,制成培养液。
现将制备培养基母液所需的各类物质的量列出,供配制时使用。
大量元素(母液Ⅰ,20×) mg/LNH4NO3 33 000KNO3 38 000CaCl2·2H2O 8 800MgSO4·7H2O 7 400KH2PO4 3 400微量元素(母液Ⅱ,200×) mg/LKI 166H3BO3 1 240MnSO4·4H2O 4 460ZnSO4·7H2O 1 720Na2MoO4·2H2O 50CuSO4·5H2O 5 CoCl2·6H2O 5铁盐(母液Ⅲ,200×) mg/LFeSO4·7H2O 5 560Na2-EDTA·2H2O 7 460有机成分(母液Ⅳ,200×) mg/L ⅣA肌醇20 000ⅣB烟酸100盐酸吡哆醇(维生素B6) 100盐酸硫胺素(维生素B1) 100甘氨酸400上述几种母液都要单独配成1 L的贮备液。
拟南芥的种植
一一一一、、、、拟南芥播种拟南芥播种拟南芥播种拟南芥播种种子装入dorf管内,20μl种子加1ml 75% 乙醇消毒1分钟;吸去乙醇,加入1ml 50%次氯酸钠:50%无菌水:0.05%吐温(or 5%漂白粉),震荡洗涤15-20分钟;稍离心使种子沉于下部,吸去次氯酸钠或漂白粉,加入无菌蒸馏水清洗(清洗3次,每次洗完后稍离心,吸净水分);将种子用接种环均匀铺于MS培养基上,用封口膜封口,放入4℃冰箱内冷处理2-3天(春化)。
MS培养基的用量:直径为9cm的培养皿用25ml,直径为6cm的培养皿用12.5ml。
二二二二、、、、MS固体培养基制备固体培养基制备固体培养基制备固体培养基制备1....培养基母液的配制和保存培养基母液的配制和保存培养基母液的配制和保存培养基母液的配制和保存MS培养基含有近30种营养成分,为了避免每次配制培养基都要对这几十种成分进行称量,可将培养基中的各种成分,按原量的20倍或200倍分别称量,配成浓缩液,这种浓缩液叫做培养基母液。
这样每次使用时,取其总量的1/20(50 mL)或1/200(5 mL),加水稀释,制成培养液。
现将制备培养基母液所需的各类物质的量列出,供配制时使用。
大量元素大量元素大量元素大量元素(母液Ⅰ,20×) mg/LNH4NO3 33 000KNO3 38 000 CaCl2·2H2O 8 800 MgSO4·7H2O 7 400KH2PO4 3 400 微量元素微量元素微量元素微量元素(母液Ⅱ,200×) mg/LKI 166H3BO3 1 240MnSO4·4H2O 4 460ZnSO4·7H2O 1 720 Na2MoO4·2H2O 50 CuSO4·5H2O 5CoCl2·6H2O 5铁盐铁盐铁盐铁盐(母液Ⅲ,200×) mg/LFeSO4·7H2O 5 560Na2-EDTA·2H2O 7 460有机成分有机成分有机成分有机成分(母液Ⅳ,200×) mg/LⅣA肌醇20 000ⅣB烟酸100盐酸吡哆醇(维生素B6) 100盐酸硫胺素(维生素B1) 100 甘氨酸400 上述几种母液都要单独配成1 L的贮备液。
拟南芥种植方法
拟南芥种植方法Document serial number【KKGB-LBS98YT-BS8CB-BSUT-BST108】培养基上点种子:1.种子处理1.1 种子消毒处理在培养基中点样前,必须对种子进行消毒,防止感菌,具体方法为:先将种子倒在干净的纸上,挑去大的杂质,再将种子倒入EP管中,加入1mL70%酒精,振荡10min,将种子放在超净台中吹干。
1.2 点样将消毒处理后的种子,可以利用牙签点到培养基上,每次仅点一粒种子,根据培养皿的大小,确定一个里面能够点多少个种子,每个90mm培养皿上大约种30粒种子,防止植株长大后影响根与子叶的发育。
1.3 春化种子点样完毕后,将培养基密封,置于4℃冰箱里放置72h后,放回温室。
土培法:1.种种子前,要将营养土用自来水混匀后,121℃灭菌30min,待土冷却后,装入种植拟南芥的方盒中,再将方盒放入红色托盘中。
2.将要点的种子平铺在称量纸上,用牙签蘸取一粒种子点在营养土上,每点一个小盒时都用牙签做标记,以免遗种某个盒子。
(每个小盒子种5粒种子,每个大方盒子种9粒种子)3.将点了拟南芥种子的托盘置于22℃温室,并用一个干净的托盘盖在上面,大约两天后就可以打开上面的托盘,待植物长出4片叶子时,可以根据自己的实验需求对植物的幼苗进行取舍。
4.植株生长条件的控制幼苗移植后将花盆置于温室内,保证温室温度恒定在22℃,空气湿度70—80%,光照强度100—150μmol/m2/s,每天浇两次纯净水,上午9点左右一次,下午5点左右一次;一周浇一次营养液(1平匙溶于1L水中),营养液要灌在盆底。
浇水注意事项:1)水不可以浇的过多或过少,用手捏起一些土能挤出水来说明就有点太湿;2)水要浇均匀,托盘四个角的方向如果喷壶喷不到,可以用挤瓶均匀地喷一些水;3)用喷壶浇水时,喷壶的水柱不可以太大,以免把植物连根拔起;4)当植株出现花芽时,一定要保证水分的供应,促进果实的发育。
当植株结有豆荚时,可以适当的减少供水量,每两三天浇一次水便可,以利于种子的成熟。
拟南芥培养攻略
拟南芥培养攻略The Standardization Office was revised on the afternoon of December 13, 2020拟南芥培养全攻略拟南芥又名阿拉伯芥,属十字花科,为二年生草本植物。
具有植株形态小,平铺直径5cm,高30cm;生长区域小,易于培养;基因组小,只有5条染色体,15700万个碱基对,27000个基因;生长速度快,周期短,一个世代大约只需要6周的时间;可自花授粉,也可以在不同种质系间杂交,种子多,每株每世代可产数千粒种子等特点。
因此,拟南芥是植物科学,包括遗传学和植物发育研究中的模式植物之一(图1)。
在2000年,拟南芥成为了第一个基因组被完整测序的植物。
尽管拟南芥生长周期短,且易于培养,但根据不同的实验需求,在培养过程中,对光照、水分及湿度等各种条件的控制有所差别,利用PERCIVAL AR 系列拟南芥培养箱可设置不同的生长环境,满足不同的实验需求。
一、正常培养简单的拟南芥培养,可用于基因表达、器官发育、基因突变等研究。
1、首先把拟南芥种子放到滤纸上,用70%酒精进行消毒处理,再用无水酒精进行处理(也可选择20%漂白剂以及% Triton X-100 非离子表面活性剂做杀菌处理20分钟)。
用无菌水冲洗5遍,然后将种子点到MS培养基上,,另加%琼脂以及2%蔗糖。
2、把种子放到4℃黑暗条件下进行春化48h-72h左右,AR系列培养箱图在长日照或短日照条件下催芽,然后转到PERCIVAL AR 系列培养箱中(图2)。
利用Intellus 控制器,编辑简单的昼夜模式,设定光照时间16小时(黑暗8小时)或者光照14小时(黑暗10小时);选配Q22连续光强调节装置,设定光照强度为100-150umol/;设定箱体内温度为光照条件下20-22℃,黑暗条件下18-20℃;选配湿度控制系统,设定箱体内相对湿度70%。
3、 出苗大约7~10天,然后移入土中培养,采用底部灌溉方式浇水(利用土壤的毛细作用)。
拟南芥养殖注意事项
拟南芥养殖注意事项嘿,想养拟南芥的小伙伴们看过来呀!今天咱们就好好唠唠拟南芥养殖的注意事项呢!首先哇,这光照可是相当重要的呢!拟南芥是一种比较喜光的植物呀,但是呢,它又不能被那种特别强烈的直射光长时间照射哦。
你要是把它放在大太阳底下暴晒,哎呀呀,那它可就受不了啦!所以呢,最好是把它放在有明亮散射光的地方,像那种靠近窗户但是又有东西稍微遮挡一下阳光直射的地方就很不错呢!这时候可能就有小伙伴问了,要是光照不足会怎么样呀?那拟南芥就可能会长得比较瘦弱,叶子也没那么绿,还可能会徒长呢!这可不好看了呀!接着说土壤的问题吧。
拟南芥对土壤也是有要求的呢!它比较喜欢疏松、透气、排水性良好的土壤哇。
那种很黏重的土壤,拟南芥在里面可就像被捂住了嘴巴和鼻子一样,难受得很呢!你可以自己调配土壤呀,比如说用腐叶土加上珍珠岩还有蛭石按照一定的比例混合起来,哇,这样的土壤就很适合拟南芥生长啦。
要是土壤排水不好,一旦积水了呢,拟南芥的根就很容易烂掉哦,这可就麻烦大了呀!还有温度呢!拟南芥比较适应凉爽一点的温度哦。
一般来说,15 - 25摄氏度之间是它比较舒服的温度范围呀。
如果温度太高了,超过30摄氏度,拟南芥可能就会打蔫儿,像是被热坏了的小娃娃一样呢!那如果温度太低,到了零下的话,那它也很可能就被冻坏啦!所以在夏天的时候呀,要给它适当遮遮荫降降温,冬天呢,要是在室内养的话,也要注意保暖呢!浇水也是一门学问呢!不能浇得太勤,也不能让它干着呀。
你要根据土壤的干湿情况来浇水哦。
可以用手指插到土壤里面去感受一下,如果感觉土壤比较干了,那就可以浇水啦。
但是哇,千万不要积水,每次浇水就浇透,让水从盆底流出来一点就好啦。
要是浇水太多,就像前面说的,根会烂掉;要是浇水太少呢,拟南芥就会缺水,叶子会发黄,看起来病恹恹的呢!施肥也不能马虎呀!拟南芥在生长期间呢,是需要一些养分的。
不过呢,不能施太多浓肥哦,薄肥勤施是比较好的原则呢。
可以用一些稀释过的液肥,每隔一段时间给它施一点。
拟南芥培育方法
拟南芥培育方法—通用指南一、原理拟南芥作为高等植物的模式生物被全世界的植物生物学实验室广泛研究。
然而,照顾好这种小植物可能不是那么容易。
这里介绍一个马里兰大学帕克学院的HevenSze实验室的通用指南。
Sze实验室及其他实验室的成员为建立这个在实验室培育拟南芥的通用指南做出了许多努力。
二、步骤1. 准备种植用土我们使用Miracle-Gro混合土(2立方英尺一袋)与Miracle-Gro珍珠岩(8夸脱一袋)来培养拟南芥,在一个可以放下2袋混合土的大容器中和土,1袋混合土(2立方英尺)混入半袋珍珠岩(4夸脱)。
注意:Sze实验室在装土之前经常将土灭菌!(方法如下)(1)将干土放入灭菌容器中,直至与顶部相差一英寸,将土拍实。
(2)用铝箔纸将容器封住,在每一个容器上放一张灭菌用胶带,缠好。
确保容器外没有土,放入灭菌锅。
(3)用常规/秒速/快速模式灭菌30~50 min,灭菌模式及时间取决于灭菌的容器数量。
(4)当温度降至室温,将土放入花盆,轻轻压实。
记住将灭菌土保存好,避免种子或菌类污染。
灭过菌的土至少可以使用两星期,如无需要请不要多次灭菌。
(5)将花盆用去离子水浸没(不要超过土表面)用humidomes覆盖,使其吸水3-6小时或过夜。
吸水后应该还保存约1英寸高的水,如果没有请添水。
(6)此时的土可以用于种植拟南芥。
2. 种子消毒方法A(1)取适量种子(野生型、突变体或互补株系)置于一个EP管中,加1 ml 消毒溶液。
消毒溶液:20%Chlorox消毒液0.05%Tween-20用新灭过菌的无菌水配制。
(2)用振荡器以最大速度震荡20-30秒。
(3)放置7-10 min,偶尔震荡一下。
(4)8 000 rpm 离心5秒。
(5)仔细将水倒出。
(6)加1 ml 无菌水,震荡重旋种子。
(7)8 000 rpm 离心5秒,倒去上清。
(8)重复步骤6-7,重复四次。
(9)将灭菌的种子移到底部铺有无菌滤纸的小Fisher盘(100×15 mm)中。
拟南芥种植方法
拟南芥种植方法培养基上点种子:1.种子处理1.1 种子消毒处理在培养基中点样前,必须对种子进行消毒,防止感菌,具体方法为:先将种子倒在干净的纸上,挑去大的杂质,再将种子倒入EP管中,加入1mL70%酒精,振荡10min,将种子放在超净台中吹干。
1.2 点样点到培养基上,每次仅点一粒种子,根据培将消毒处理后的种子,可以利用牙签养皿的大小,确定一个里面能够点多少个种子,每个90mm培养皿上大约种30粒种子,防止植株长大后影响根与子叶的发育。
1.3 春化种子点样完毕后,将培养基密封,置于4?冰箱里放置72h后,放回温室。
土培法:1.种种子前,要将营养土用自来水混匀后,121?灭菌30min,待土冷却后,装入种植拟南芥的方盒中,再将方盒放入红色托盘中。
2.将要点的种子平铺在称量纸上,用牙签蘸取一粒种子点在营养土上,每点一个小盒时都用牙签做标记,以免遗种某个盒子。
(每个小盒子种5粒种子,每个大方盒子种9粒种子)3.将点了拟南芥种子的托盘置于22?温室,并用一个干净的托盘盖在上面,大约两天后就可以打开上面的托盘,待植物长出4片叶子时,可以根据自己的实验需求对植物的幼苗进行取舍。
4.植株生长条件的控制幼苗移植后将花盆置于温室内,保证温室温度恒定在22?,空气湿度70—80%,2光照强度100—150μmol/m/s,每天浇两次纯净水,上午9点左右一次,下午5点左右一次;一周浇一次营养液(1平匙溶于1L水中),营养液要灌在盆底。
浇水注意事项:1)水不可以浇的过多或过少,用手捏起一些土能挤出水来说明就有点太湿;2)水要浇均匀,托盘四个角的方向如果喷壶喷不到,可以用挤瓶均匀地喷一些水;3)用喷壶浇水时,喷壶的水柱不可以太大,以免把植物连根拔起; 4)当植株出现花芽时,一定要保证水分的供应,促进果实的发育。
当植株结有豆荚时,可以适当的减少供水量,每两三天浇一次水便可,以利于种子的成熟。
开花后的植物不能再用喷壶浇水,要从盆底灌水,但不可以一次性灌太多水; 5)在盆底灌水后,待植物吸收完水后,可以将盆底多余的水分倒出来; 6)拟南芥受到胁迫判断标准:叶柄发紫,叶片发黄,开花期提前等; 7)如果做生理实验,植物一旦受到胁迫,需要把植物丢弃,重新种植,以免实验数据不准确。
拟南芥培养Protocol
拟南芥培养Protocol拟南芥培养Protocol拟南芥生长的适宜温度白天为22℃-24℃,夜温最好比日温低2℃,适宜的湿度为60-70%,生长期适宜的光强为150μmol·s-1·m-2(6支36W日光灯下35cm处测得)。
幼苗期不耐高光强,可适当遮荫.光质也较重要,应选用植物生长专用的日光灯(如荷兰产TLD型Philip豪华直管荧光灯).拟南芥在日照长于12小时下才会开花,一般拟南芥生长室的日照长度定于14-16h为佳1.准备发苗培养基:1/2 MS,Sucrose:10g/L,pH5.7,agar:0.7-0.8%.灭菌后,在超净台上分装入培养皿.2.种子消毒:种子放在1.5ml试管中, 加入1ml10%NaClo,混匀,消毒5min,用无菌水洗5次以上(用移液枪吸).3.播种:用移液枪将种子吸到培养皿上,可多加些水,将种子铺均匀(不要太密,太密根缠在一起不好移苗),用移液枪吸干水,在超净台上让培养皿干了,密封盖子,4℃暗处理两天后,移到光照培养箱(22℃,光周期12h),若种子较密,则在光照培养箱中生长1周后即可移苗,否则根长太长后易缠在一起,但太小的苗移栽后,需适当遮荫.最好是在每皿<30株这样的密度下,让其生长两周后再移苗.4.移苗:将蛭石与珍珠岩按(3:1)的比例混好,装入花盆,将花盆放入有水的塑料周转框中,框中的水就会通过花盆底部的孔渗上来,待花盆中的基质湿透后即可移苗.小心轻轻用镊子从培养皿中连根拉出小苗,把根平放在蛭石表面,用镊子把根轻轻压下.移苗结束后,用保鲜膜覆盖3-4天后揭膜.从苗期直至开花,可在塑料周转框中始终保持1-3cm的水层,在开始收籽期,不再需要过多的水分,可保持塑料周转框干燥,此时每隔2-3天浇一次水即可.整个生长期可浇3-4次拟南芥营养液.5.收籽:在种荚变黄,变干时可以收籽.将种子抖落在纸上,用金属滤网过一下以除去杂质,将种子装入写了标记的小纸袋中,放于干燥的环境中让种子进一步干燥后,封存于1.5ml试管中.附拟南芥营养液配方nutrient solution containing:5mM KNO3, 2.5mM KH2PO4, 2mM MgSO4, 2mM Ca(NO3)2, 50μM Fe-EDTA, 70μM H3BO4,14μM MnCl2, 0.5μM CuSO4, 1μM ZnSO4, 0.2μM Na2MoO4, 10μM NaCl, 0.01μM CoCl2, adjusted to PH 5.7具体配法(药品刚好50L水培液用):O ,):溶解,加水至500ml, 1)大量元素(包括25.25gKNO3,24.65gMgSO4·7H2配制成100倍母液Ⅰ。
- 1、下载文档前请自行甄别文档内容的完整性,平台不提供额外的编辑、内容补充、找答案等附加服务。
- 2、"仅部分预览"的文档,不可在线预览部分如存在完整性等问题,可反馈申请退款(可完整预览的文档不适用该条件!)。
- 3、如文档侵犯您的权益,请联系客服反馈,我们会尽快为您处理(人工客服工作时间:9:00-18:30)。
HANDLING ARABIDOPSIS PLANTS AND SEEDSMethods used by the Arabidopsis Biological Resource Center GROWTH OF PLANTSGrowth of plants in sterile conditionsGrowth of plants on soil•Planting on soil•Growth conditions•Control of pests•Plant isolation and harvestingSEED HANDLING AND PRESERVATIONThreshingSeed dryingSeed moisture content determinationSeed packaging for storageSeed storage and preservationSeed viabilityThe methods used by the ABRC for handling plants and seeds are outlined below. These procedures are designed to generate healthy plants that give maximum set of pure seeds and to preserve these in the safest and most convenient manner. Many other approaches may be equally as good, especially in specific experimental situations.GROWTH OF PLANTSArabidopsis can be grown in a variety of environmental settings including growth rooms, window ledges, outdoors, growth chambers and greenhouses.Peat moss-based mixes, commercial greenhouse mixes, relatively inert media watered with nutrient solutions, and defined agar media can all be employed as plant substrates.Our focus will be on growth of plants on agar and soil in growth chambers and greenhouses. The plant and seed management methods are discussed in the chronological order in which they would normally be utilized.Growth of plants in sterile conditionsIt is necessary to use sterile conditions to grow Arabidopsis for specific experiments such as selection of transformed plants, drug resistant plants, early root and shoot phenotypes, lethal mutants, etc. Otherwise, contaminants can essentially take over plant cultures. Various shapes and sizes of containers such as petri dishes, 'Magenta' boxes, or culture tubes can be used, depending on the required length of the growing time (2-3 weeks or to maturation) and characterization of phenotypes (shoot or roots). We will emphasize theuse of petri dishes. All procedures should be accomplished in a sterile hood or environment.The most commonly used media is 0.5x or 1x Murashige and Skoog (MS) mineral salts with 0.8-1% BactoAgar TM. Optional 0-3% sucrose and vitamins can be added to the media. Preparation of 0.5x MS agar media is as follows:1. Add 4.31 g of MS Salts to 1.8 L of distilled water and stir to dissolve.2. Check and adjust pH to 5.7. Adjustments can be made with 1M KOH.3. Dilute to final volume of 2 L and add agar (10 g / L).4. Autoclave 15 minutes at 15 psi, 121o C.5. Optional sucrose and vitamins should be added after agar media cools, before pouring solution into container (e.g. petri dishes, Magenta boxes, culture tubes).Seeds can be surfaced sterilized by soaking for 8 min in bleach (5.25-6.15% Sodium hypochlorite) with 0.05% Tween 20 and rinsing the seeds 3-5 times with sterile, distilled water. Be sure that all bleach residue is removed. Maintain seeds in a small amount of water in a watch glass and plant immediately.There are several methods for placing the seeds on medium, depending on the preferred plant density and type of container used:a.) For planting of individual seeds in low density, a small pasteur pipet with a latex bulb on the upper end can be used. Exhaust air from the pipet, submerge its tip and use slow release pressure on bulb to draw a single seed into the end of the pipet. The seed can be dropped at the desired location by carefully exhausting of the pipet. Do not draw seeds beyond 1-2 cm into the pipet. Repeated pipetings are used for the remainder of the seeds.b.) For planting at high densities with uniform distribution on agar, mix seeds in sterile distilled water (or 0.1% cooled top agar), pour onto dish, and swirl to distribute seeds evenly. A sterile Pasteur pipet tip can be used to move seeds around to adjust the distribution, and to remove excess water. Allow the water or top agar to dry slightly before replacing lid.After planting seeds on Petri dishes with agar, replace cover and seal with Parafilm to prevent desiccation. Place dishes at 3-4°C (refrigerator temperature) for at least 2 to 4 days to break dormancy, if needed. Dishes can be placed directly into the growth environment. A temperature of 23-25°C, 130-150 (E m-2 sec-1 illumination are suitable. Growth of plants on soil•Planting on soilDifferent mixtures and media can be utilized for growing Arabidopsis. Growth of plants on soil includes all media that can be successfully used for non-sterilegrowth of plants in pots or other similar containers. Mixtures of soil that havesubstantial peat moss with some perlite and vermiculite for aeration can be usedsuccessfully. Peat-based commercial mixes represent a convenient and reliablebase for growing plants. Mixes such as "Sunshine LC1 mix" support healthyArabidopsis growth and have fertilizer added so that fertilization is not necessary in the very early growth phases.Seeds can be planted in various ways, however, strict control of numbers of seeds planted can be maintained, and separate rows of different lines can be planted in the same pot for critical comparisons with the techniques described here. The density of planting depends on the genetic material, the purpose of the plants and availability of seeds. For seed production, high yields are achieved utilizing densities of 10 to 20 plants per 10 cm square pot. Larger populations of plants do not necessarily reduce yield, but production per plant is reduced inversely. Larger populations are necessary for maintenance of representative proportions in a segregating population, and this can be achieved with more dense plantings in one or two 10 cm pots or in flats (approx 26 cm x 53 cm).Preparation of pots and planting can be accomplished as follows:1. Thoroughly wet soil with tap water and apply a commercially available extended time release fertilizer such as Osmocote 14-14-14 (14% nitrogen, 14% phosphate, 14% potassium) which feeds up to 3 months from planting (apply in amounts according to the label). Alternatively, nutrient solution can be used to wet the soil. Mix well with trowel or large spoon. Soil can be autoclaved to eliminate pests, but this is not usually necessary.2. Place soil loosely in pots or flats, level without compressing to give a uniform and soft bed. Pots are ready for planting.3. When planting many seeds in a pot, scatter them carefully from a folded piece of filter paper (weighing paper or other paper) distributing seeds evenly onto the surface of the soil.4. When planting individual seeds in low density, use a Pasteur pipet with a latex bulb on the upper end. Exhaust air from the pipet, submerge its tip and use slow release pressure on bulb to draw a single seed into the end of the pipet. The seed can be dropped at the desired location in the pot by carefully exhausting of the pipet. Repeated pipetings are used for the remainder of the seeds.5. Planted seeds should not be covered with additional soil, because Arabidopsis seeds need light for germination.6. If several pots are planted, they can be placed in a tray or other similar container and covered with clear plastic wrap. In all cases the plastic wrap should not be allowed to contact the soil surface. Cut several small slits in the plastic with a knife in order to provide some aeration, but still maintain enough humidity for germination and also avoid seed desiccation. Clear plastic domes are available for covering flats, but should not be tightly sealed.7. Pots can be placed at 3-4°C (refrigerator temperature) for at least 2-4 days to eliminate any dormancy, improve germination rate and its synchrony. The use ofa cold treatment to break dormancy of seeds, also called stratification, is very important for plantings utilizing freshly harvested seeds, which have more pronounced dormancy. Most widely used lines have moderate dormancy, and cold treatment may not be required when planting older seeds of these lines. For certain lines, as many as 7 days of cold treatment is necessary. Cold treatment of dry seeds is normally not effective in breaking dormancy.8. After cold treatment, place pots in growth area (growth chamber, growth room, greenhouse, etc) and maintain approx 2 cm of water around base of pots during the germination phase. Leave plastic wrap on for plants grown in growth chamber.•Growth conditionsIn general, the growth and development of Arabidopsis plants, including time to flowering and time to harvest depend on several growth conditions in addition to the genetic background. Management of water, nutrition, light and temperature will ensure that healthy plants develop and produce high quality and quantity of seeds. Under continuous light, 25°C, good water supply and good nutrition, seeds of the commonly used lines germinate within 3-5 days, bolt and flower around 3-4 weeks, and can be harvested within 8-12 weeks.Water and nutritionMaintenance of soil moisture is imperative for successful germination of seeds. This can be ensured in one of two ways: a) leaving the plastic with small perforations over the pots or tubs, or b) placing the pots in flats without the plastic cover and maintaining a depth of 1-3 cm of water, which is maintained continually until all plants germinate and have expanded cotyledons. We prefer the former for growth chamber and the latter for the greenhouse. The first method is dangerous in the greenhouse setting, due to the potential for overheating underneath the plastic covering on sunny days, killing the germinating seedlings. After germination, plants are watered as needed to avoid water stress. Water is best applied by sub-irrigation when the soil begins to dry. Sub-irrigation can be achieved by placing pots into flats or trays, allowing proper drainage of the soil. Over-watering should be avoided due to the potential for algal or fungal growth on the soil surface. Over-watering of greenhouse plants also provides favorable soil conditions for fungus gnat larvae. More frequent watering may be necessary during the first few days, as it is necessary to avoid any drying before the first two true leaves begin expanding. After plants have developed true leaves, watering frequency may be reduced to as low as once or twice per week until the plants flower. The water requirement of plants increases dramatically during silique filling. Daily watering at this stage is necessary for good seed production.Water requirement is strongly influenced by relative humidity. Arabidopsis plants, including seedlings, tolerate low humidity (e.g., 20-30%) although increased humidity (e.g., 50-60%) greatly reduces the risk of accidental drying of the soil surface and subsequent desiccation of the fragile, germinating seedlings. Very high humidity (more than 90%) can induce the formation of mold. Low humidity (less than 50%) is desirable when siliques begin to mature.Poor nutrition can lead to rapid flowering, short growth period and low seed set. If an extended time release fertilizer was not utilized before, a mild mineral nutrient solution can be applied to the pots at 2-week intervals (5 mM KNO3, 2.5 mMKH2PO4 (adjusted to pH 6.5), 2.0 mM MgSO4, 2.0 mM Ca (NO3)2, 50 microM Fe-EDTA, 70 microM H3BO3, 14 microM MnCl2, 0.5 microM CuSO4, 1 microM ZnSO4, 0.2 microM Na2MoO4, 10 microM NaCl, 0.01 microM CoCl2, pH 6.5).LightOptimum light is approx 130-150 uE m-2 sec-1. Very high output or cool white (VHO or SHO) fluorescent lamps, supplemented by incandescent lighting are used for growth chambers. Older plants tolerate higher light intensity, up to full sun, although the use of 60% shade cloth in summer greenhouses helps with light intensity control and temperature regulation. Supplemental evening and morning light is provided in the greenhouse during winter since the plants generally require a long photoperiod (at least 12 hours) for flowering. Photoperiods of 16 hours work well for greenhouse growth. Plants flower rapidly under continuous light or long days, while under short days flowering is prevented or delayed, favoring growth of vegetative tissue. Continuous light is well-tolerated and can be used to accelerate the reproductive cycle.TemperatureThe optimum growth temperature range for Arabidopsis is 23-25°C. In general, high temperatures favor a reduced number of leaves and flowers, and fertility is reduced. At lower temperatures, growth is slow and flowering is delayed. Lower temperatures are permissible, but higher temperatures are not recommended, especially for germination through early rosette development. Older plants tolerate higher temperatures, at least up to 30°C. It is advisable to set the greenhouse temperature at 21-23°C to avoid fluctuations to higher temperatures. It is recommended that night temperatures be maintained 2-4°C lower than the day temperature. Some late flowering natural accessions (ecotypes) require an additional 4°C incubation (vernalization) of young rosettes for 3-4 weeks to induce flowering.•Control of pestsSeveral insects can cause substantial damage to or even kill Arabidopsis plants in the greenhouse and growth chambers. The main pests we have encountered are thrips, aphids and fungus gnats; other minor pests are whiteflies and spider mites. Despite any precautions (avoiding transfer of insects from contaminated areas to growth space), even the most carefully managed growth spaces occasionally become infested by pests. The best strategy for eliminating the infestation is emptying the room, destroying all plants growing in the area (if possible), thoroughly cleaning the room and heating the space to 40C for at least 24 hours to kill insect eggs and larvae.An important aspect of insect control is detection and identification before populations multiply. Traps (yellow cards with adhesive) are vital in this regard for catching winged insects. Fresh traps should be placed in greenhouse rooms and growth chambers frequently and monitored continuously. Always identify a pest before embarking on treatment.Although chemical or biological treatments can reduce the population of insects, such remedies cannot make a room completely pest-free while allowing Arabidopsis plants to survive.Where local governmental regulations permit and infestation is highly probable, application of insecticide as a preventative measure can be very effective in assuring plant health throughout growth. This helps to avoid heavy use of chemicals that may be necessary after infestations have occurred. The following procedure may prevent infestation of thrips, aphids, fungus gnats and white flies.1. Add 1.2 ml of "Enstar", 1.2 ml of "Tempo" and 1.2 ml of "Conserve" to 3 gal of water. Mix well. Spray lightly on rosettes prior to bolting stage - before placement of any isolation devices for the plants.2. "Marathon" (granular) can be added to the soil surface as per product label. However, applications for small plants can be made in the tray with water in cases where the pots are being sub-irrigated. This practice reduces risk of damage to the plants by the insecticide.Listed below are the main pests and the possible insecticides used for their control once insects have been observed.Thrips: these insects feed on developing buds and leaf primordia, visual symptoms of damage are: brown spots in young leaves, withered inflorescence tips, crumpled and curled leaves, sterility and plant death. Effective pesticides to control thrips are "Conserve", "Mesurol", "Duraguard", or "Marathon". Aphids: severe infestation can produce stunted plants or even plant death. Insecticides like "Marathon", "Mesurol", "Duraguard" are useful.Fungus gnats: the larvae of this insect inhabit the soil around the plants, especially in over-watered pots, and can cause severe root and leaf damage, destroying plants; adults are easily detected (2-3 mm long). Larvae populations can be controlled by reduced watering or by treating the soil with the highly selective biological insecticide "Gnatrol" (Bacillus thuringiensis), or the microencapsulated Chlorpyrifos "Duraguard" for time release control. "Marathon" is a systemic alternative.Note that the use of brand names does not constitute an endorsement of product nor does it imply that other approaches may be necessarily inferior. The chemicals listed are for information only. Also, when these or any other pesticides are employed, check the label instructions of the manufacturer before purchase or application for registered usages of the product and recommended application rates and frequencies. Label instructions of pesticides must be strictly followed, and the product applied only by individuals with currently valid licenses. All applications of pesticides should be made in evening hours, and greenhouse rooms flushed with fresh air before the next morning to minimize exposure to workers. Notice of application should always be posted.Many predator species are currently marketed for control of some of the above pests. Some of these are effective, but others are less successful. We have used predators to eradicate spider mites. However, some others have been less successful in our hands, and when it becomes necessary to apply chemicals to control one pest, all predators are often lost. We have also experienced difficulty in keeping some predators on hand for quick response to pest immigration. However, as technology relating to this type of pest control advances, their use will surely increase.•Plant isolation and harvestingIt is necessary to avoid seed mixing among adjacently growing lines and to prevent loss of seeds due to shattering while assuring quality of the harvested seeds. It is essential to keep plants of one line isolated from neighboring plants to ensure that absolutely no cross-contamination can occur. It is useful to keep inflorescences from sprawling for maximum use of growth area. Various means and devices, such as "Aracons TM", plastic floral sleeves and plastic bags can be employed to achieve these goals. In case you need access to the plants while they are growing e.g. if you are making crosses, it may not be practical to contain the plants inside an isolation system, therefore plants can be supported on wire stakes or plastic rods using disposable wire bag ties.Watering of pots should be discontinued several days prior to harvest so that pots are dry when harvest is conducted. It should be noted that delays in harvesting following physiological maturation of the plant result in seed deterioration, especially under non-optimal environmental conditions.Commercial seed collectors: Aracons TM (Lehle Seed Co. Catalog) placed soon after bolting are effective for single plant harvesting, preventing cross pollination and seed contamination, but are not necessary when simple bulk production is desired. Harvesting after pots have been allowed to dry is accomplished easily by carefully cutting off the inflorescence under the cone device, placing the Aracons TM plus contents carefully on a large plastic bag (approx 4 liter) or a large piece of paper, removing the plant material from the plastic cylinder, and then shaking the seeds into the bag or paper. Alternatively, if plants are totally dry, the plant material can be placed directly onto threshing sieve (see threshing section below).Use of plastic floral sleeves: For bulk seed production using individual pots, the pots can be placed into transparent clear plastic (i.e. polypropylene) floral sleeves near the bolting time. These sleeves fit snugly around a 10-cm pot, extend 50-60 cm upward, and are wider at the top allowing for expansion of the developing inflorescences, maintain upright stiffness, and tear easily for harvesting. All plant inflorescences are maintained within the sleeve, forming a propagator for each pot. At harvest, the sleeves can be cut or torn, the inflorescences cut off at the base, and the plant material placed into plastic bags or, if plants are totally dry directly onto threshing sieve. This method is very effective for achieving high densities of lines while maintaining productivity and purity of each pot. Bagging inflorescences by pot: Inflorescences can simply be trained into an approx 4 liter transparent plastic bag before any siliques begin to brown. The bag, however, may potentially collect moisture from transpiration or careless watering and provides a haven for insects when greenhouses are sprayed. To reduce these possibilities, the tops of these bags should be kept widely open at all times. Wait until the inflorescence has browned before harvesting. This method is conducive to strict isolation of the lines, and the bag serves to collect shattered seeds. Harvesting is accomplished by carefully cutting the entire inflorescence off at its base after all seeds have matured and shaking the seeds into the plastic bag.Bulk production on the open bench: For bulk seed production, the best method is to simply grow the plants on the open bench, keep all lines separated by adequate space, avoid disturbance of maturing inflorescences, and harvest when all siliques are dry. The entire inflorescence is cut off at its base and carefully placed into an approx 4 liter or larger transparent plastic bag, depending on the size of the bulk of plants. This is compatible with the goals of high seed quality, maximum seed yield, and good pest protection. Some seeds may be lost, but the remainder are almost always healthy, and result in vigorously germinating seedlings. After harvest, the entire contents of the bag are allowed to dry in preparation for threshing.Early harvest of individual siliques: Seeds from individual siliques can be harvested after the siliques have turned completely yellow, if rapid turnover is required. However, such seeds do have high levels of germination inhibitors. Fornormal seed production, seeds are harvested only after the siliques havecompletely browned, and when pressed with fingers, do not compress (if thesilique has dried even further, the silique may shatter at this point). At this stage,seeds are completely formed. Since formation and maturation of siliques occurover time, early siliques can be harvested before later ones mature to avoid seedloss. However, it is usually recommended to wait until the entire inflorescence has browned before harvest.SEED HANDLING AND PRESERVATIONThe longevity of seeds can be affected by a) genotype, b) pre-storage environment, such as conditions during seed maturation, harvesting and seed handling and c) seed storage conditions. A slow process of deterioration begins as soon as seeds mature on a plant. Therefore the sooner seeds are placed into storage, the better. Harvested seeds should be processed promptly (including threshing, cleaning, drying and packaging) and then placed into storage.Preservation of seeds involves adherence to a few simple principles. Hence, it is not a difficult task although deviations can result in damage to seeds. We treat Arabidopsis as oil seeds which means that the most careful, and conservative handling procedures must be applied. The following procedures form a sequence that ensures that the seeds will be conserved in the best possible condition.ThreshingHand rather than machine threshing and cleaning of the small Arabidopsis seeds is recommended mainly because the threshing machines need rigorous cleaning between lines to avoid sample cross-contamination, require very careful adjustment and do not accommodate the variable size of Arabidopsis seeds well.If seeds are collected in a plastic bag, the harvested plant material should be allowed to dry for a few days in the opened bag before threshing, since threshing is easier when the inflorescences are dry. Seeds should be threshed when the moisture content is approx 10%, to minimize seed damage during threshing. This moisture content will be reached when all material in the bag appears to be dry. The plastic bags containing dried inflorescences can be gently hand-pressed from the outside, and the seeds will fall to the bottom of the bag. Most of the dry inflorescence can be removed from the bag by hand before seeds are sieved to separate them from chaff.Hand sieves with graded mesh sizes (i.e. No. 40) are recommended to remove debris, with seeds passing through the mesh and collected on clean paper. Totally dry plants from Aracons TM and sleeves can be placed directly onto the sieve. After sieving, the seeds are still likely to be mixed with soil and residue. A combination of additional sieving, blowing and visual inspection can be employed to clean the seeds completely. Small samples can be cleaned by hand with the aid of a pointed tool on an opaque glass plate illuminated from below. Cleaned seed samples are placed in open, carefully labeledglass jars (do not use plastic due to static effects), or in small manila "coin" envelopes to allow seeds to dry.Seed dryingThe moisture content of Arabidopsis seeds after threshing is usually around 10%. The seeds should be dried to 5-6% moisture, prior to storage. This is verified by moisture testing, as outlined in the protocol below, on samples that can be disposed. Higher moisture content can cause seed deterioration. There are many methods available for drying seeds. The safest method is to air-dry the seeds at room temperature for 1-3 weeks. Low relative humidity (20-30%) is necessary for seeds to reach the desired moisture content. The lower the humidity, the faster the seeds will dry and the lower their final moisture content. If after testing, the moisture content is not low enough, continue to dry further and check again.Seed moisture content determinationGeneral ConsiderationsMoisture testing is necessary to verify that seeds are dry enough for storage. Seed moisture content can be determined by several methods. The method outlined is a destructive method, and the seeds employed for testing will no longer be viable.1. The total weight of seeds used for a moisture content determination should be sufficient to make the test accurate and yet not be wasteful of seeds. The sample should be fully representative of the accession and a minimum of 100 mg should be used to prepare the samples for the test. Accurate results were obtained using approximately 200 mg of seeds.2. The lower the weight of seed used, the more accuracy is required to achieve a true result. Small samples should be weighed with an analytical balance to four decimal places using light-weight dishes (small aluminum dishes or petri dishes), so that the ratio of the weight of the seeds and the dish is not too disproportionate.3. It is suggested that a minimum of three replicates of 100 mg of seeds or two replicates of 200 mg of seeds per sample be used for the moisture content determination.4. Always work with care and finish one sample at a time. Do not leave the dishes open in the laboratory between weighings because the seeds will either lose or absorb water from the air and small changes in weights can result in large differences in the calculations when the amount of seed used is small.5. High temperatures cannot be used to determine the moisture content because the oil will also vaporize and give a false result of water plus oil content. Temperatures of just over 100°C allow evaporation of water and minimal vaporization of oils.Equipment:Heat resistant dishes with cover, analytical balance, forced draft oven,s desiccator with silica gel, tongs and oven cloth.Method:1. Weigh one clean numbered dish and cover accurately to 4 decimal places using an analytical balance. Write the weight (W1) in the notebook.2. Add approximately 100 or 200 mg of seeds distributed evenly over the base of the dish, replace the cover and accurately weigh the dish and cover. Write this weight (W2) in the notebook.3. Place the dish in a safe place and continue to do the second and/or third replicates in the same way.4. When all samples have been weighed into numbered dishes, place each dish on top of its numbered lid in the oven at 100-105°C.5. Wait for the oven to reach this temperature and heat the samples for 15-17 hours.6. Remove the dishes from the oven, replace their covers and place in a desiccator to cool for 30 to 45 minutes at room temperature. After heating, make sure that the dishes are put directly into the desiccator so that the dry seeds do not absorb more moisture.7. Remove the dishes one by one from the desiccator and immediately weigh each dish and cover, and write the weight (W3) in the notebook. Do not leave the desiccator open during the weighings.8. Moisture content is calculated as the loss in weight as a percentage of the original weight of seeds. This is known as wet basis or fresh-weight basis, and is expressed to one decimal place. Algebraically, if W1 is the weight of the dish, W2 the weight of dish and seed before drying, and W3 the weight of dish and seed after drying, then:% Moisture Content = 100 x ( W2 - W3 ) / ( W2 - W1 )Seed packaging for storageAfter seed moisture content is within the safe storage limits, dried seeds should be placed in tightly sealed and impermeable containers to prevent rehydration. Cryovials (with threaded lids and gaskets) are convenient for storage. They hold large numbers of seeds, seal tightly and can be resealed many times.In packaging seeds, each container should be labeled with relevant information including date of storage using a waterproof permanent marker, or a suitable printed label. In determining seed quantities, approx 1250 seeds = 25 mg = 50 microliters. Seal the。