2015经济学人双语阅读

2015经济学人双语阅读

London Fashion Week

WITH its whirl of frocks, models and million-dollar deals London Fashion Week has always been rather a closeted affair, accessible to few. Amateur fashionistas have had to wait for glossy magazines and blogs to tell them what to wear next. But at the second of London's biannual fairs, which ran from September 13th to 17th, that was starting to change. Around half the shows were live-streamed to the internet and TV channels with bulletins broadcast to commuters waiting at underground Tube stops. A free pop-up cinema screened fashion-themed films.

This push to bring Fashion Week to a wider audience is likely to pay off. Though unaffordable to most shoppers, high fashion is the beating heart of high-street retail. More wearable versions of the transparent outfits that entertained audiences in London this month will soon appear in shops up and down the country. In the week following last September's shows, online fashion sales were up 45%, according to Ve Interactive, an e-commerce firm. Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC), which organises Fashion Week, expects that the digital buzz surrounding the event will push buyers' orders well beyond ￡100m ($160m).

The changes seen at the shows are part of a wider effort to bring a businesslike approach to British fashion. London has long been feted as a breeding ground for brilliant designers. Many of them, including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, trained at Central St Martins, a college known for turning out skilful originals. But a tendency to focus on art over business has meant that too many designers have failed to make the most of their critical acclaim. London Fashion

Week has long been seen as the tiddler of the “big four” global shows, overshadowed by the spectacles in Milan, New York and Paris.

The BFC wants to change that. Since 2009, when it appointed Ms Rush (its first full-time chief executive) the council has pushed to make young designers more market savvy and encourage greater investment in fashion. In January it appointed a new chairman, Natalie Massenet, the American creator of Net-a-Porter, an online fashion shop that last year saw sales of 368m, as its chairman. Ms Massenet has said she wants to stop "business" being seen as a dirty word in fashion.

That may not be as far-fetched as it sounds. Britain's fashion business adds about ￡21 billion to GDP. Oxford Economics, a consultancy, reckons that a good chunk of this is retail. But from designing clothes to selling them, fashion employs more people than any other creative industry in Britain. The designer end of clothes making has done especially well, growing 20% a year over the past decade. An increasing number of British designers have set their sights on overseas markets, especially in Asia. Paul Smith, for example, plans to open 20 new stores in China in the next five years. Attracting foreign talent, meanwhile, may soon be made easier with the introduction of a “London visa” for talented designers.

The renaissance of British fashion has been given a boost by some new ambassadors. The “Middleton effect”—a bump in sales attributed to the Duchess of Cambridge's fashion choices—has had a beneficial effect on British brands in America. A new crop of British models, among them Cara Delevingne, bestrides the international catwalk. Now Boris Johnson, the floppy-haired mayor of London, has joined the campaign. At a fashion shoot to promote British menswear this summer he could not remember who designed the suit he was wearing but his words were on message. “London is to the suit”, he said, “as Parma is to the Parmesan cheese”.

翻译：

伦敦时装周

按照以往的惯例，伦敦时装周是裙裾飞扬的大牌成衣、魅惑性感的T台模特和投资上百万美元共同打造出的一场仅为极少数土豪奉上的时尚盛宴，而至于那些不入流的时尚人士则只能从铜版纸装订的时尚杂志和时尚达人的博客中得知下一季的流行趋势。但是从9月13日至17日的这场时装周作为伦敦今年举行的两场中的第二场，则开始有了些许的变化。约有半数的秀场通过网络和电台进行直播，那些想和土豪做朋友的小伙伴们甚至可以在地铁站候车点的公告牌前、影院观影前荧幕弹出的时尚主题短片中观看走秀。

该做法的确为时装周吸引了大批消费受众群体，尽管对多数消费者来说要买的起这些时装至少要卖个肾，但这些高端时尚却是那些他们可以消费得起的高街品牌（如ZARA、BERSHKA 或MANGO）的设计源动力。至于在本月秀场上的一系列令台下观众喜大普奔的透视时装将陆续出现在英国小伙伴们生活当中。据电子商务公司龙头企业——Ve Interactive的数据显示，九月时装周后一周的时间内，在线时装交易额同比上涨了45%。负责时装周运行的英国时装理事会（British Fashion Council）首席执行官卡洛琳·拉什（Caroline Rush）推测数字化的环境将推动超过一亿英镑（折合一亿六千万美元）的订单交易生成。