孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
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第三章 孔府旧藏明代服饰的纹样.................................................................................. 30 3.1 纹样分类.................................................................................................................30 3.1.1、动物纹样.................................................................................................... 30 3.1.2、花卉植物纹................................................................................................ 36 3.1.3、自然气象纹................................................................................................ 40
Key Words: collections of Kong Family, clothing of Ming Dynasty , artistic characteristics
Writer: Xu Xiao Instructor: Xu Xing
II
目录
第一章 孔府旧藏明代服饰概述........................................................................................ 4 1.1 孔府的历史背景.......................................................................................................4 1.2 孔府旧藏明代服饰的文化背景...............................................................................5 1.2.1、明代皇帝的加赏封赐.................................................................................. 5 1.2.2、衍圣公与命妇的政治、礼仪活动.............................................................. 5 1.2.3、府内生活遵循礼教...................................................................................... 6 1.3 孔府旧藏明代服饰的分类.......................................................................................6 1.3.1、衍圣公朝服、公服、常服.......................................................................... 7 1.3.2、命妇冠服...................................................................................................... 8 1.3.3、皇帝赐服与吉服.......................................................................................... 9 1.3.4、便服............................................................................................................ 10
本文采用文物考证和文献考证相结合的方法，运用历史学、民俗学、艺术学等学 科的相关理论和方法，对孔府旧藏明代服饰进行细致的研究，包括研究服饰所处的历 史背景、文化背景、服饰分类等，着重分析服饰的款式特征、图案纹样、工艺技法等， 并结合绘制的服饰款式图、纹样线图，系统的对孔府旧藏明朝服饰作了详尽的考证和 论述。
在对孔府旧藏明代服饰研究的基础上，从整体研究的视野系统阐释和论述了服饰 折射出的艺术特色和精神内涵，探索上层社会政治、文化视角下服饰所产生的艺术之 美，以及服饰所蕴含的规范的礼教道德和鲜明的文化精神特质。
关键词：孔府旧藏、明代服饰 、艺术特色
作 者：许 晓 指导老师：许 星
Iቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱ
Abstract
Study on the Clothing of Ming Dynasty from the Collections of Kong Family Mansion
This thesis adopts methods of historical relic research and literature research, applying relevant theories and methods of courses such as history, folklore, art, etc to make careful research on clothing of Ming Dynasty from collections of Kong Family Mansion, including historical background, cultural background, clothing classification of it. It analyzes the style characteristic, pattern, craft technique, etc emphatically by combining charted clothing style picture and pattern picture to systematically make detailed research and illustration for clothing of Ming Dynasty from collections of Kong Family Mansion.
硕士学位论文
论文题目
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
研究生姓名 指导教师姓名 专业名称 研究方向 论文提交日期
许晓 许星 设计艺术学 服装设计及理论研究 2014 年 3 月
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
中文摘要
中文摘要
孔府旧藏服饰包括元、明、清几代数以千计的衣、冠、袍、履等，其中以传承的 明代服饰最为珍贵。孔府旧藏明代服饰门类、品种繁多，传承、保存完好，是明代历 史文化的瑰宝。其丰富的款式造型，精美的图案纹样、精致的工艺技法，是明代服饰 艺术成就的高度展现，同时也具有独特的文化和审美特质。
Study on the Clothing of Ming Dynasty from the Collections of Kong Family Mansion
Abstract
Clothing from collections of Kong Family Mansion includes thousands of clothes, crowns, gowns and shoes etc of Ming and Qing Dynasties, of which inherited clothes of Ming Dynasty is the most precious. The clothes of Ming Dynasty not only have abundant kinds and varieties, but only the inheritance and storage are perfect, so it is the treasure of historical culture. It’s ample style, beautiful and elegant technique are the high exhibition of Ming Dynasty clothing art achievement, at the same time it also has unique cultural and beautiful characteristics.
第二章 孔府旧藏明代服饰的款式.................................................................................. 11 2.1 男服主要款式......................................................................................................... 11 2.1.1、衣和裳........................................................................................................ 11 2.1.2、袍服............................................................................................................ 13 2.1.3 搭护............................................................................................................ 20 2.2 女服主要款式.........................................................................................................21 2.2.1、衫................................................................................................................ 21 2.2.2、袍服............................................................................................................ 25 2.2.3、裙................................................................................................................ 27 2.2.4、比甲............................................................................................................ 29
On the basis of research for it, it makes systematic illustration and discusses the artistic characteristics and spiritual connotation reflected by clothing from the prospect of the whole research, and explores politics of the upper class, artistic beauty generated from cultural prospect as well as regulated ethics and moral, distinct cultural and spiritual characteristics implicated by clothing.
Key Words: collections of Kong Family, clothing of Ming Dynasty , artistic characteristics
Writer: Xu Xiao Instructor: Xu Xing
II
目录
第一章 孔府旧藏明代服饰概述........................................................................................ 4 1.1 孔府的历史背景.......................................................................................................4 1.2 孔府旧藏明代服饰的文化背景...............................................................................5 1.2.1、明代皇帝的加赏封赐.................................................................................. 5 1.2.2、衍圣公与命妇的政治、礼仪活动.............................................................. 5 1.2.3、府内生活遵循礼教...................................................................................... 6 1.3 孔府旧藏明代服饰的分类.......................................................................................6 1.3.1、衍圣公朝服、公服、常服.......................................................................... 7 1.3.2、命妇冠服...................................................................................................... 8 1.3.3、皇帝赐服与吉服.......................................................................................... 9 1.3.4、便服............................................................................................................ 10
本文采用文物考证和文献考证相结合的方法，运用历史学、民俗学、艺术学等学 科的相关理论和方法，对孔府旧藏明代服饰进行细致的研究，包括研究服饰所处的历 史背景、文化背景、服饰分类等，着重分析服饰的款式特征、图案纹样、工艺技法等， 并结合绘制的服饰款式图、纹样线图，系统的对孔府旧藏明朝服饰作了详尽的考证和 论述。
在对孔府旧藏明代服饰研究的基础上，从整体研究的视野系统阐释和论述了服饰 折射出的艺术特色和精神内涵，探索上层社会政治、文化视角下服饰所产生的艺术之 美，以及服饰所蕴含的规范的礼教道德和鲜明的文化精神特质。
关键词：孔府旧藏、明代服饰 、艺术特色
作 者：许 晓 指导老师：许 星
Iቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱ
Abstract
Study on the Clothing of Ming Dynasty from the Collections of Kong Family Mansion
This thesis adopts methods of historical relic research and literature research, applying relevant theories and methods of courses such as history, folklore, art, etc to make careful research on clothing of Ming Dynasty from collections of Kong Family Mansion, including historical background, cultural background, clothing classification of it. It analyzes the style characteristic, pattern, craft technique, etc emphatically by combining charted clothing style picture and pattern picture to systematically make detailed research and illustration for clothing of Ming Dynasty from collections of Kong Family Mansion.
硕士学位论文
论文题目
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
研究生姓名 指导教师姓名 专业名称 研究方向 论文提交日期
许晓 许星 设计艺术学 服装设计及理论研究 2014 年 3 月
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
孔府旧藏明代服饰研究
中文摘要
中文摘要
孔府旧藏服饰包括元、明、清几代数以千计的衣、冠、袍、履等，其中以传承的 明代服饰最为珍贵。孔府旧藏明代服饰门类、品种繁多，传承、保存完好，是明代历 史文化的瑰宝。其丰富的款式造型，精美的图案纹样、精致的工艺技法，是明代服饰 艺术成就的高度展现，同时也具有独特的文化和审美特质。
Study on the Clothing of Ming Dynasty from the Collections of Kong Family Mansion
Abstract
Clothing from collections of Kong Family Mansion includes thousands of clothes, crowns, gowns and shoes etc of Ming and Qing Dynasties, of which inherited clothes of Ming Dynasty is the most precious. The clothes of Ming Dynasty not only have abundant kinds and varieties, but only the inheritance and storage are perfect, so it is the treasure of historical culture. It’s ample style, beautiful and elegant technique are the high exhibition of Ming Dynasty clothing art achievement, at the same time it also has unique cultural and beautiful characteristics.
第二章 孔府旧藏明代服饰的款式.................................................................................. 11 2.1 男服主要款式......................................................................................................... 11 2.1.1、衣和裳........................................................................................................ 11 2.1.2、袍服............................................................................................................ 13 2.1.3 搭护............................................................................................................ 20 2.2 女服主要款式.........................................................................................................21 2.2.1、衫................................................................................................................ 21 2.2.2、袍服............................................................................................................ 25 2.2.3、裙................................................................................................................ 27 2.2.4、比甲............................................................................................................ 29
On the basis of research for it, it makes systematic illustration and discusses the artistic characteristics and spiritual connotation reflected by clothing from the prospect of the whole research, and explores politics of the upper class, artistic beauty generated from cultural prospect as well as regulated ethics and moral, distinct cultural and spiritual characteristics implicated by clothing.