奇妙的纺织品原材料：菠萝的叶子居然可以做皮衣？双语阅读

奇妙的纺织品原材料：菠萝的叶子居然可以做皮衣？双语阅读
当前环境污染和气候变化加剧，各大企业都绞尽脑汁研发新的可替代、可持续的创新原材料，使纺织品生产和纺织业更加绿色环保。

对此，英国《金融时报》以Nina Marenzi创办的The Sustainable Angle为切入点，为你介绍时下最典型的创新可持续纺织品原材料。

Screenshot: The Sustainable Angle/ Press
全文共657个单词。

Pineapple leaves, fish scales and wine pulp are not the most obvious raw materials for textiles, but they are among hundreds of innovative and sustainable elements that businesses are starting to use in their production processes.
菠萝叶、鱼鳞以及葡萄酒渣并不是最常见的纺织品原料，但它们却是企业开始在生产过程中使用的数百种创新和可持续材料之一。

Screenshot: Piñatex
Nina Marenzi, a Swiss entrepreneur and former management
consultant, founded The Sustainable Angle in 2010 with a mission to introduce clients to innovative textiles that can be used in product production and help reduce corporate environmental impact. These materials range from biodegradable sequins and recycled polyester to leather made from fish scales.
瑞士企业家和前管理顾问Nina Marenzi于2010年创立了The Sustainable Angle，该企业致力于向客户介绍可用于产品生产并有助于减少企业对环境影响的创新纺织品。

这些材料的范围从可生物降解的亮片和再生聚酯，到由鱼鳞制成的皮革。

① textile ['tɛkstaɪl] n. 纺织品；织物
例句：Digital printing on textiles is a new and comparatively young technology in the field of textile dyeing. 纺织品的数字印花在纺织着色领域中是新颖而又较年轻的一门技术。

“We have to come up with fibres that don’t have [a negative] environmental impact,” Ms Marenzi says. “This shift in the supply chain is necessary in order to future proof business.”
“我们必须拿出不会对环境产生（负面）影响的纤维，”Marenzi说。

“为了未来的业务发展，供应链的这种转变是必要的。

”
She started The Sustainable Angle as a non-profit after spotting a gap in the market while doing a masters degree at Imperial College London.
在伦敦帝国理工学院攻读硕士学位时，Marenzi发现了市场上的一个缺口。

对此她创办了非盈利组织“The Sustainable Angle”。

Screenshot: The Sustainable Angle
Sustainable agriculture and environmental policy were her main topics and “while writing my dissertation on organic cotton, I interviewed fashion designers and was startled to find how little knowledge they had on alternative sustainable materials”, she says. She quickly discovered that the fashio n industry was one of the biggest polluters. “When it came to climate change policy, the industry had nothing going on.”
可持续农业和环境政策是她的主要议题。

她说：“在撰写关于有机棉的论文时，我采访了时装设计师，我惊讶地发现他们对可供替代的可持续材料知之甚少”。

她很快发现时装业是最大的环境污染源之一。

“当谈到气候变化政策时，该行业可以说是毫无进展。

”
② dissertation ['dɪsɚ'teʃən] n. （学位）论文
例句：You should present your dissertation by the end of next month. 你应该在下月底之前提交你的学术论文。

Ms Marenzi, 45, leads a team of six — including researchers, analysts and curators —who liaise with designers, buyers, students and investors. Its office in west London is packed with samples sent from textile mills around the world in the hope of being added to the team’s database of sustainable manufacturers.
现年45岁的Marenzi领导着一个由六人组成的团队，包括研究人
员、分析师和策展人，他们与设计师、买家、学生和投资者保持联系。

其位于伦敦西部的办公室堆满了来自世界各地纺织厂的样品，各大厂商都希望能被收录进该团队的可持续制造商数据库中。

③ mill [mɪl] n. 工厂；磨坊
例句：I have other plans such as buying another mill, but I am not so silly as to give up before this one last try. 我还有其它计划，比如收购另一家工厂，但我还没傻到在没做最后努力之前就放弃的地步。

The Sustainable Angle’s platform connects clients with the mills, enabling a more transparent supply chain and greater control over access to sustainable materials. Ms Marenzi also consults corporations, advising on ways to improve their efficiency and lowering the environmental impact of production processes.
The Sustainable Angle的平台将客户与工厂连接起来，使供应链更加透明，并更好地控制可持续材料的获取。

Marenzi还为企业提供咨询，就如何提高效率和降低生产过程对环境的影响提出建议。

The organisation bridges knowledge gaps between manufacturers, biotech labs and farmers. “It isn’t just the fashion industry, we are now consulting for food retailers who are coming to us for help in closing the loop in recycling their own food waste,” says Ms Marenzi. She cites Toyoshima, a Japanese textiles manufacturer. “They create natural dyes using food waste —on an industrial scale.”
该组织弥合了制造商、生物技术实验室和农场主之间的知识鸿沟。

“不仅仅是时尚行业，我们也正在为食品零售商提供咨询。

他们向我们寻求帮助，以完成食物垃圾回收循环，”Marenzi说。

她引用了日本纺织品制造商Toyoshima的例子，“他们在以工业化的规模利用食物垃圾制造天然染料。

”
While she has noticed a huge increase in the appetite for
knowledge about sustainable materials, she also notes that “no one wants to pay for knowledge”. The Sustainable Angle relies on corporate sponsors including G-Star Raw, the luxury denim manufacturer.
虽然她注意到人们对可持续材料知识的兴趣大增，但她也注意到“没有人愿意为知识买单”。

The Sustainable Angle依赖于企业赞助商，包括奢侈牛仔布制造商G-Star Raw。

But attitudes are moving in the right direction. Ms Marenzi held her eighth Future Fabrics Expo this year, where more than 2,500 visitors spent two days viewing 5,000 samples of low-impact materials provided by 170 international suppliers. When she organised her first fair in 2011, she recalls that she had trouble getting anyone interested in the idea. “When I first shopped the idea to the mainstream trade fairs, no one was interested. They thought sustainability was a trend that would pass,” she says. “Now everyone is ‘sustainable’ and ‘eco-fr iendly’.”
但人们对此的态度正朝着正确的方向发展。

Marenzi今年举办了她的第八届未来织物博览会（Future Fabrics Expo），超过2500名参会者花了两天时间参观了由170家国际供应商提供的5000件低影响材料样品。

她回忆说在2011年组织第一届博览会时，她很难让人对这个想法感兴趣。

“当我第一次把这个想法告诉那些主流贸易展商时，没有一个人感兴趣。

他们认为可持续的趋势将会过去，“她说。

“而现在每个人都很在意'可持续'和'环保'。

”
Screenshot:
Fig trees to wine pulp: some of the surprising sources for textiles
从无花果树到葡萄酒渣：一些让你意想不到的纺织品原材料
Pinatex is fibre made from recycled pineapple leaves that can be used as an alternative to traditional leather for upholstery and clothes.
Pinatex是由回收菠萝叶制成的纤维，可以替代传统皮革用于家具装饰和服装。

Screenshot: Piñatex
Pirarucu leather is made from fish scales and is a farming byproduct of the indigenous population in the Amazon. It is soft to the touch but firm and malleable and is dyed in an assortment of colours using a blend of biodegradable resins. It is an alternative to conventional leather and can be used to make bags, jackets and shoes.
巨骨舌鱼（Pirarucu）皮革由鱼鳞制成，是亚马逊土著居民的农业副产品。

它触感柔软，但坚固且具有延展性，并使用可生物降解树脂的混合物染成各种颜色。

它是传统皮革的替代品，可用于制作包、夹克和鞋子。

Screenshot: Leather-Dictionary
Wine pulp can be made into a leather called ‘Vegea’. It is vegan and used for making a range of accessories.
葡萄酒渣可以制成叫做'Vegea'的皮革。

它是“纯素”的，可用于制作一系列配件。

Screenshot: Vegeacompany
Barktex is a tree bark fleece made in Uganda. It is harvested from fig trees —and this low impact, zero carbon emissions material can be used for insulation and clothes.
Barktex是乌干达制造的树皮摇粒绒。

它来自无花果树。

这种低影响、零碳排放的材料可用于隔热（或隔音、绝缘）和制作衣服。

Screenshot: Barktex
Lyocell is made from wood chips and can be used in place of cotton to make clothing, curtains, rugs, and upholstered furniture.
Lyocell由木屑制成，可用于代替棉花制作衣服、窗帘、地毯和软垫家具。

Screenshot: Tencel。