暗缝机启示录(英文版)

双面呢暗缝机启示录
Revelation of blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen
鉴于近年来双面呢市场火爆,服装行业普遍招工困难,双面呢羊绒大衣
生产过程中手工暗缝更是大难题｡双面呢生产厂家不约而同的将眼光瞄准
了双面呢暗缝机｡双面呢代替手工暗缝机做的风生水起｡同行之间难免有排斥以及技术保密,导致很多从事双面呢服装生产的朋友对这款机型一知半解｡对机器､工艺､技术等方面不了解｡
Owing to the hot market of double-faced woolen goods in recent years, the clothing industry has suffered from a general problem of difficulty in recruitment of workers, and the manual blind stitching is more a hangup in the production process of double-faced woolen cashmere overcoat. The manufacturers of double-faced woolen goods happened to coincidentally turn to the blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen. The blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen has delivered good performance as a substitute for the manual blind stitching, and it is inevitable that the fellow traders repulse each other and keep technology confidential, resulting in smattering of a great many people engaging in the production of double-faced woolen clothes about this machine type and no knowledge of the machine, process and technology.
面对客户的各种疑问,坦途公司的工作人员总是耐心的为客户一一
解答,帮助和培训客户公司的技术人员和操作人员,在工艺､操作､调试､维修
等方面竭尽全力为客户提供帮助｡
To cope with the clients' various doubts and questions, the Stanto's personnel have always patiently explained to them one by one, helped and trained the technologists and operating personnel of the clients, to facilitate their process, operation, commissioning and service, etc. with might and main.
笔者将这些错综复杂的问题,以问答题的形式总结出十三条,供大家
参考｡
The author summarized these detailed problems in the form of question and answer into 13 items for your reference.
一､使用机器后是否会对企业造成负面影响｡
I. Will using the machine produce a negative influence on the enterprise?
笔者总结了很多同行的看法加上个人的分析总结,举例列出5点供大家参考: The author summarized a great many opinions of fellow traders and combined them with own analysis and summary. Following illustrates five points for your reference:
1､服装是一个劳动密集型的产业｡曾经的“慈母手中线,游子身上衣,”已经成为历史｡
The clothing industry is labor intensive, and the picture of "The mother line wandering onto clothing." has become history.
作为现在流行的手工羊绒大衣并不是只能用手工做,而是当初没有如此成熟的技术和设备｡只有做出更好的产品,使商品物美价廉才是消费者最欢喜的｡
The current handmade cashmere overcoat in vogue is not able to be only manufactured manually, while the limitation to the manual operation in the past is due to the absence of such mature technologies and devices at the start. Only the better products that can manufacture both cheap and fine goods can win the favor of the consumers.
2､现在手工做的衣服是不是比机器做的衣服好卖?
Does the current handmade clothes sell better than the machine-made clothes?
这个问题要用辩证的眼光去看待,如果不好卖还需要用机器做吗?现在消费者看待一件双面呢衣服会考虑是怎么做出来的吗?能决定衣服销量好
差的决定因数是品牌､款式､颜色､材质､营销渠道等方面｡
This problem should be treated dialectically. If it does not sell well, need it be made? Will the consumers now consider how the double-faced woolen overcoat was made when purchasing it? The determinants for the sales volume of the clothes are brand, style, color, material, marketing channel, etc. 3､准备等这款机器完全公布于众的时候再上机器做｡
Someone waits to use the blindstitch machine to replace manual operation when the machine has been completely made public.
个人觉得这是个误区,比如以前搜盈公司做特种绣花的时候,一台打揽机一天的产值是好几万,现在呢?还怎么做?总不可能落后的生产方式将先进的生产方式淘汰的｡
Personally I think this is a mistake. For example, when Souying Company engaged in the special embroidery formerly, the daily output value of a smocking sewing machine was tens of thousands Yuan. What is it now? How to do it then? It is impossible for the backward mode of production to wash out the advanced one.
4､觉得机器太贵了,什么时候能回本?
The machine is too expensive, and how long will be the payback on investment?
使用机器加工双面呢不仅仅是节省加工成本的问题,还可以大大的降低生产所需要的时间和管理成本｡间接影响库存备货方案,库存备货这方面的成本节省将会远远超过机器成本和加工费了｡
Using the machine to process double-faced woolen is more than just a matter of economizing the processing cost, but can also largely lower reduce the time and overhead cost needed for production, which will indirectly influence the stocking scheme. The cost saved in the aspect of stocking will far exceed the machine cost and the processing expenses.
5､双面呢大衣,继续使用手工缝制双面呢的企业的发展方向在哪里?
What is the development direction of the enterprises continuing to adopt the mode of manually stitching the double-faced woolen overcoat?
我为这个事情可以举一个例子,就说现在做油纸伞的企业,他们坚持用手工做到现在,已经是工艺品了｡这个价值远远超过一把普通的雨伞所带来的价值｡
I would like to make an example for this question: the enterprises making the oilpaper umbrella have persisted in manual operation till now, and their products have become artworks, whose value far exceeds the value of a common umbrella. 现在出现的很多手工制品风靡市场｡最好的产品一定不是销量最好的产品｡我佩服他们的理念和他们的这份坚持｡每个行业总有那么几家企业一直坚持传统做下去的｡
Now there has emerged a lot of handiwork that has swept the market. The best product must not be the best seller. I admire their idea and persistence. Each industry always has some enterprises persisting in the traditional process.
综上所述,笔者觉得是否采用机器与企业本身的定位有最直接的关系,机器的价格､成品效果那还是间接影响的｡用机器还是手工本来就是两条道上跑的火车,并不冲突｡同一家服装企业不同的品牌就有不一样的生产方式｡
In summary, the author thinks whether to use the machine is most directly related to the positioning of the enterprise itself, while the machine price and the effect of the finished product just produce an indirect effect. The
machine-made and hand-made modes are by nature the trains running on two rails without collision. Different brands of a same clothing enterprise have varying modes of production.
二､双面呢大衣还会流行吗?
II. Will the double-faced woolen overcoat be fashionable?
双面呢服装流行的原因笔者认为:
The author thinks the reasons for the popularity of the double-faced woolen overcoat are:
1. 中国纺织技术的提高,将原本需要进口的面料转向进口原料｡原本奢侈品的双面呢大衣,被中国的服装企业做成全民皆可拥有的衣服｡
Due to the improvement on weaving technology in China, the shell fabric originally needing to be imported has changed to use the imported raw materials. The double-faced overcoat which is originally the luxury is made by the Chinese clothing enterprises into a generally affordable article.
2､以目前行情来看,国外做双面呢服装的企业肯定死一片｡现在中国服装企业不单单做本国市场,全世界都是我们的市场｡
Seen from the current market, a large number of foreign enterprises of
double-faced woolen clothes must suffer from failures. Currently Chinese clothing enterprises do not simply target the domestic market, but aim at the whole world market.
3､双面呢暗缝机的出现也将带来革命性的改变,使得双面呢整个产业再一次增长,一次由上而下的普及｡
The emergence of blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen will also bring revolutionary changes to again increase the output of whole double-faced woolen industry, a top-down popularization.
综上所述笔者认为双面呢服装在机器普及的过程中会出现增长,之后肯定会回归平稳,成为消费者服装选购中的一个大类｡
To sum up, the author believes that the double-faced woolen clothes will increase with the popularization of the machine, and will be bound to return to a steady state
later to become a broad clothes category for the consumers.
三､消费者如何分别双面呢大衣是手工的还是机器做?
III. How can the consumers distinguish the handmade double-faced woolen overcoat from the machine-made one?
首先弄清楚一个概念,双面呢手工缝制指的是门襟处､下摆､衣片拼接处使用手工缝制,其余的还是使用机器做的｡
Firstly we need to clarify a concept. The handtailoring of double-faced woolen refers to handtailoring at closure, bottom and splice of garment pieces, while the rest part is still made by the machine.
手工缝制特点是单根缝纫线､会出现针脚､针距不一致｡
The handtailoring is characterized by single sewing thread, appearing of stitches and inconsistent stitch lengths.
机器缝制特点是双线缝制､针距一致､将缝合处扒开能看到三角形线迹｡The machine-tailoring is characterized by double sewing threads for stitching, consistent stitch lengths, and triangular stitch visible when the seam is pushed open.
采用手工还是机器对成衣效果并没有差别,没有必要较真｡双面呢大衣最大的黑幕在与面料的成分上,消费者一定要多加留意｡
Whether to use manual operation or machine operation does not influence the effect of ready-to-wear, so don't be too rigid. The biggest trick of the double-face woolen overcoat occurs in the selection of components of the shell fabric, to which the consumers must pay more attention.
四､很多朋友觉得弄两台双面呢暗缝机就可以做加工了,笔者和很多双面呢企业探讨过这个问题,做双面呢加工需要解决下面几个问题:
IV. Many friends think processing can be realized after they get two blindstitch machines for double-faced woolen, which problem has been explored by the author with many double-faced woolen enterprises, and we drew the conclusion that following problems need to be solved for processing double-faced woolen goods.
1､双面呢暗缝加工对前道工艺有要求,外发加工的工厂需要配合你的工艺要求｡
The blindstitching of double-faced woolen has certain requirements on the previous process, and the outsourcing factory should meet your technological requirements.
2､机器能解决70%的暗缝,剩余30%需要手工解决,哪怕是加工腰带也是如此｡如果做加工不能完整的解决整件衣服,也很难接到单子｡
The machine can handle 70% of blindstitching, and the remnant 30% needs to be done manually. This is the case even for the processing of waistband. If the processing factory fails to completely solve the processing of whole clothes, it is difficult to receive an order.
3､必须有熟练的操作人员,没有好的操作人员,机器的稳定性难以保障｡这个问题哪怕放在平车上也是一样的｡同样的平车,有的人做就经常坏,有的人就不容易坏｡这个区别很大｡
The skillful operating personnel are required. Without them, the stability of machine is difficult to be guaranteed. This problem exists even for the sewing machine. A same sewing machine tends to fail when operated by one operator and not tends to fail when operated by another. There is a large difference.
4､扎实的技术保障｡
Solid technology guarantee.
5､如果能将双面呢暗缝工序和其他工序集中起来,将双面呢暗缝机融入流水线里一起做,那样效率会提高很多｡单做裁片的效率比作整件衣服操作起来要高,工作强度也会降低｡
The efficiency will significantly improve if the blindstitching process of double-faced woolen is integrated with other processes and the blindstitching machine for double-faced woolen is fused into the assembly line. The efficiency of singly cutting part is higher than that of making the whole clothes, and the working strength will be lowered too.
这些问题同样适用于自己企业使用,在使用时一定要将各个部门衔接好｡These problems are also applicable to the enterprise itself, which should connect different departments well in using.
五､单独使用360型暗缝机加工腰带怎么样?
V. How about the effect of singly using the 360 blindstitch machine to process the waistband?
现在这样操作的公司和加工厂不在少数,这款机器技术要求高,在没有掌握高技术的时候先用腰带练手也不失为一个不错的选择｡腰带能做好了,那可以尝试做门襟,门襟能做好,那可以试试313型做拼缝｡以分步走的形式一步步的掌握高技术,一步步的扩大机器的使用量,的确是比较靠谱的事情｡
Currently there are a good few companies and processing plants with such operation. This type of machine has high technical requirements, so practicing on the waistband before mastering the high technology is a good choice. If the waistband can be processed well with the machine, you can attempt to make the closure. If the closure is processed well, you can attempt to make splice with 313 model. Such a step-by-step way of mastering the high technology to gradually expand the use of machine is indeed relatively reliable.
六､机器缝制出来的效果怎么样?
VI. What is the effect realized by machine sewing?
思坦途360型313型双面呢暗缝机已经是目前机器缝制中最优秀的线迹效果｡线迹流畅精致､每针线条松紧和针距的大小一样､无明显线迹｡
Stanto 360 and 313 blindstitch machines for double-faced woolen are already the ones with the most excellent stitch effect in machine sewing now, with fluent and refined stitch, consistent tightness and stitch length of thread in each stitch and no obvious stitch.
七､花点钱买几台机器,请两个操作人员,就开干｡毫无难度so easy!
VII. It is just needed to spend some money in purchasing several machines and to employ two operating personnel to start. So easy!
双面呢暗缝机维修人员缺口很大,就像杭州这样服装产业集中的地方也没有几个真正能将机器调试到最佳状态的师傅,其他地方就更不用多说了｡There is a large blank in the serviceman for the blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen, even Hangzhou, a place with concentration of clothing
industry, has few servicemen who can adjust the machine to the ideal state, not to mention other places.
这款双面呢暗缝机结构复杂,精度要求高,对前道工艺要求严格,没有几把刷子玩不来的｡
This type of blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen has complicated structure and high requirement on precision, as well as strict requirements on the previous process. Nobody can easily handle it without excellent skills.
八､操作注意事项:
VIII. Operational notices:
1､思坦途360型侧缝一定要注意剖缝的宽度,为增加侧缝的立体感,需要烫嵌条,使用思坦途360型暗缝机不需要折边整烫｡操作时不能将面料从拉筒中溜出来｡
In side stitching with Stanto 360 model, must pay attention to the width of the cutting seam. The piping should be ironed to increase the third dimension of the side seam. Edge folding and ironing are not needed in using Stanto 360 blindstitch machine. Don't make the shell fabric slip out of the folder.
2､思坦途313型拼缝操作时一定要保证正常的使用气压,成品需要根据客户要求调整机器,(鼓位需要正反面均匀突出｡)
Must normally use the air pressure in splicing with Stanto 313. The machine needs to be adjusted for the read-to-wear according to the client's requirements. (The bulging part should be bulging evenly on the front and back).
3､360型､313型机型在机头部分为手动加油,操作时需要时刻保持润滑,操作人员需要定时定量按指定位置加油,(在机头部分有红色标记处和旋梭部位
均为加油部位｡)既要适量加油保持润滑,又不能加油过多造成面料污损｡
The 360 and 313 models are of manual oiling at the nose section and shall be always kept lubricated in operation. The operating personnel shall oil it with fixed amount as per the designated position at fixed time. (The red mark position and the position of rotating shuttle on the nose are all oiling position). Shall oil with a proper amount to keep lubricated and don't oil too much leading to shell fabric to be stained.
4､新机刚开始工作时,一定进行一周的低速磨合期,速度600转/分,磨合期后可以将速度调至800-1000转/分｡
The new machine just starting to operate must have a one-week low-speed
run-in period with speed of 600 RPM. After this period, the speed can be adjusted to 800-1000 RPM.
九､售后服务怎么办?
IX. How to receive after service?
很多朋友最担心的应该就是这个问题了,网上曾经传过一个段子,说缝纫机是维修率最高的设备,笔者认为这个一点也不为过｡目前市场主要流行两种售后方式:
This must be the largest concern of many friends. There has been a joke that sewing machine is the equipment with the highest maintenance rate. The author thinks this is no exaggeration. There are mainly two after service modes in the market:
1､不负责技术培训,机器故障派人上门维修｡(这种方式是目前大多数缝纫机公司采用｡)
No technology training, but just dispatch personnel to service the machine with failure (adopted by majority of sewing machine companies now).
2､提供技术培训,机器故障等级低由服装企业机修自行解决,等级高缝纫机公司派专业师傅上门维修｡(此类方式主要被技术比较扎实的公司采用,比如坦途公司｡)
Provide technical training, and the clothing enterprise will independently solve the low-grade failures, while the high-grade failures will be solved by the sewing machine company which dispatches the professional technician to provide the field service (adopted by the companies with solid technology base, such as Stanto.)
笔者就这两种售后方式进行分析:
The author analyzes the two after service modes:
方式1:购买机器时方便,付钱提机器,购买体验特别爽｡出现故障电话求救｡这种方式的弊端是,往往十分钟能解决的问题可能需要半天甚至几天时间解决｡严重影响生产｡
The first mode: convenient in purchasing the machine, just pay and take away the machine, a rather exhilarating shopping experience, and ask for help in case
of failure. The drawback of this mode is a problem that is able to be solved within ten minutes tends to take half a day or even several days for solving, which severely influences the production.
方式2:购买机器时,厂家会严格要求接受技术培训,不培训不发货｡这种方式的弊端是,技术人员容易跳槽､购买时的体验没有那么爽,很多人会不耐烦｡
The second mode 2: The manufacturer will strictly require the buyer to be trained in technology in purchasing and will not ship goods if no training. The drawback of this mode is the technologist is prone to job-hopping and the purchasing is not as exhilarating as the first mode, so many people will be impatient.
笔者对服装企业跟踪调查后,倾向于方式2这种售后服务方式｡1､解决技术人员跳槽问题,可以选择亲信学习､多人学习､签订合同来解决,很多暗缝加工的工厂都是老板亲自学习技术,不存在跳槽问题｡2､这款机器有很多朋友使用起来效率低､效果差,以我在服装企业的考察,往往只需要在机器上调节一点点､工艺上做些改进,效果就会好很多､效率还能提高｡3､这款机器24小时的产值往往要超过4000元,耽误一天损失很大｡
After a survey on the clothing enterprises, the author is inclined to choose the second mode. 1. The solution of the job-hopping of technologists is letting the trusted followers and multiple persons learn and then signing contract. Many factories of blindstitch processing factory adopt the mode of the boss learning technology personally, so there is no problem of job-hopping. 2. This type of machine is inefficient in use as reflected by many friends, which, according to my review on the clothing enterprises, can just be solved by a little bit adjustment of the machine and some improvements on the process. 3. The 24hs output value of the machine tends to exceed 4,000 Yuan, so the loss of one delayed day is large.
《道德经》三十八章:是以大丈夫处其厚,不居其薄;处其实,不居其华｡The chapter of The Way and Its Power says: A real man should abandon the superficial trumpery and take the simplicity and honesty.
毕竟不是打酱油,长期做下去还是要掌握扎实的技术｡以提高企业的竞争力｡
After all, we are not a passing traveler in a hurry in this industry, and a
long-term practitioner should still master the solid technology to improve the competitive power of the enterprise.
思坦途313型拼缝暗缝机
Stanto 313 splice blindstitch machine
十､维修技术我该去哪里学呢?
X. Where should I learn the service technique from?
“取法乎上”搞技术更要这样,如果购买机器的公司技术实力不行,你又能学到多高的技术?个人推荐选择杭州坦途服装机械有限公司学习技术｡
"Aim high", especially in the case of technology. How high technology can you learn if the company from where you have purchased the machine has low technical capability? Personally I recommend Hangzhou Stanto Clothing Machinery Co.,Ltd. for learning technology.
思坦途360型侧逢暗缝机
Stanto 360 sidestitch blindstitch machine
十一､品牌选择?
XI. How to select the brand?
1､看市场占有率,市场占有率低的品牌,一旦过了保修期,再维修的时候就不方便了,因为没有普遍性和通配性,零配件都难找,技术人员也陌生｡
The first factor is the market share. The brand with low market share inconveniences you in servicing once the guarantee period expires, for the brand is not universal and spare and accessory parts are hard to be found, and is also strange to the technologist.
2､一定要想有历史的公司购买,为什么坦途公司双面呢暗缝机销量大?就因为该企业已经有四年的双面呢专业销售史,在特种缝纫机领域可谓是独占鳌头｡客户不敢随便到其他公司购买,担心买了机器没人管,也没能力管｡
Must purchase it from the historied company. Why is the sales volume of Stanto Company's blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen so large? Just because the enterprise has already specially sold the machine for four years, so to speak,
being the top one in the domain of special sewing machine. The clients generally dare not purchase from other companies, worrying the machine will not enjoy good and reliable maintenance service.
3､要想专业化､职业化的公司购买双面呢暗缝机,有些公司主要以平缝机､拷边机为主要产品,看到现在双面呢暗缝机市场火爆,跟风顺带着做,这就很难有保障了!自己都没有完全搞清楚机器的状况,如何为我们提供保障｡
Must purchase the blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen from the professional and specialized company. Some companies mainly produce and sell the flat seamer and serger, but follow suit to set foot in the hot market of blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen when seeing its popularity. There is little guarantee for their products' quality! How can one company provide guarantee for the clients when it has not yet completely got clear the machine state.
4. 要向网上容易检索到资料的品牌和公司购买,机器是要长期使用的,时间长了,操作说明书､零件样本图､维修方法都会遗失,甚至联系方式都找不到｡Must purchase from the company and brand with materials easy to be searched for from the internet. As the machine will be in long term usage, the operating manual, parts sample drawing and service mode will be lost after a long period, even the contact mode cannot be found.
十二､思坦途双面呢313/360型代替手工暗缝机成缝原理及常规调试｡XII. The principle of stitching and routine commissioning of Stanto 313/360 as a substitute for the manual blindstitch machine.
思坦途313型､360型双面呢暗缝机,采用313双线锁式线迹｡如图:
Stanto 313 and 360 blindstitch machines for double-faced woolen adopt the 313 double lock stitch, as shown in the figure:
这种线迹型式是由一根针线(1)和一根梭线(a)所形成,线1的线环从机针一面穿人缝料的部分,露出在缝料的机针面上与线a进行交织｡该线迹型式是连续的每个线迹形成一种对称曲折形花纹｡
This stitch pattern is formed by one needle thread (1) and one bobbin thread (a). The thread loop of thread 1 penetrates the sewing material from one side of the needle and is exposed on the needle face of sewing material to interweave with thread a. This stitch pattern is a symmetric zigzag design formed by consecutive stitches.
思坦途360型侧缝暗缝机采用固定针杆,其中A､B两个线迹交叉点,机针带线穿过侧缝上层面料与梭线交织形成线迹,C､D两个线迹交叉点,机针带线穿过侧缝下层面料与梭线交织形成线迹｡
Stanto 360 sidestitch blindstitch machine adopts fixed needle bar. Wherein, for the two intersections of stitches of A and B, the needle with thread passes through the upper shell fabric of side seam to inverweave with the bobbin thread to form stitches. For the two intersections of stitches of C and D, the needle with thread passes through the lower shell fabric of side seam to interweave with the bobbin thread to form stitches.
A､B两个线迹交叉点由左侧凸轮驱动滑块推动面料到机针可刺到位置,为形成线迹提供条件｡滑块推动量可以调节,方便不同厚度的面料使用｡
The shell fabric of two stitch intersections of A and B are pushed by the left cam-actuated sliding block to the position where the needle can penetrate to, to provide the conditions for forming stitches. The pushing amount of the sliding block is adjustable, to facilitate using of shell fabric of different thickness.
C､D两个线迹交叉点由下面顶杆,将面料顶出到机针可刺到位置,为形成线迹提供条件｡顶杆顶出量可以调节,方便不同厚度面料使用｡
The shell fabric of two stitch intersections of C and D are ejected by the lower ejector pin to the position where the needle can penetrate to, to provide the conditions for forming stitches. The ejecting amount of the sliding block is adjustable, to facilitate using of shell fabric of different thickness.
思坦途313型拼缝暗缝机采用左右摆动针杆,其中A､B两个线迹交叉点由机针带针线穿过左侧(上层)面料与梭线形成线迹,C､D两个线迹交叉点由机针带针线穿过右侧(下层)面料与梭线形成线迹｡
Stanto 313 splice blindstitch machine adopts wagging needle bar. Wherein, for the two intersections of stitches of A and B, the needle with thread passes through the left (upper) shell fabric to form stitches with the bobbin thread. For the two intersections of stitches of C and D, the needle with thread passes through the right (lower) shell fabric to form stitches with the bobbin thread.
A､B两个线迹交叉点由左侧凸轮驱动滑块推动面料到机针可刺到位置,为形成线迹提供条件｡滑块推动量可以调节,方便不同厚度的面料使用｡
The shell fabric of two stitch intersections of A and B are pushed by the left cam-actuated sliding block to the position where the needle can penetrate to, to provide the conditions for forming stitches. The pushing amount of the sliding block is adjustable, to facilitate using of shell fabric of different thickness.
C､D两个线迹交叉点由下面顶杆,将面料顶出到机针可刺到位置,为形成线迹提供条件｡顶杆顶出量可以调节,方便不同厚度面料使用｡
The shell fabric of two stitch intersections of C and D are ejected by the lower ejector pin to the position where the needle can penetrate to, to provide the conditions for forming stitches. The ejecting amount of the sliding block is adjustable, to facilitate using of shell fabric of different thickness. 按工艺要求操作,C､D两个线迹交叉点在刀车拼缝线右侧1mm为最佳效果｡正面与反面效果凸起量均衡｡
In operation as per the technological requirements, the best effect is when the two stitch intersections of C and D are at 1mm on the right side of joint of sewing machine with blade. The bulging degrees of front and back effect are balanced.
在使用过程中会遇到剖缝后单边烫嵌条的情况,就需要调节左侧滑块的推动量以及拉筒的左右位置,以确保上下层整齐｡
The piping needs to be ironed for a single edge after the seam is cut open in the using, which requires adjusting the pushing amount of the left sliding block and the right and left of the folder, to guarantee the upper and lower layers are neat.
如遇到客户上下层需要呈现向外倾斜的坡度时,同样也是调节左侧滑块的推动量以及拉筒的左右位置,以达到客户要求｡
If the client requires the upper and lower layers to present an
outward-dipping gradient, the operation is also adjusting the pushing amount of left sliding block and right and left of folder to meet the client's requirement. 遇到厚薄面料的转换时:需要调整左侧滑块以及下面顶杆｡以确保最佳效果｡To convert between the thick and thick shell fabric, adjust the left sliding block and the lower ejector pin to guarantee the best effect.
遇到跳针情况:检查旋梭与机针配合､穿线是否正确､针线与梭线张力是否合适､定位钩是否正常｡
In case of skipping stitch, check whether the rotating shuttle cooperates well with the needle, whether the threading is correct, whether the tension of needle thread and bobbin thread is proper, whether the locating hook is normal.
遇到卡线:切断电源,断开机针线,将机器慢速手摇将线取出｡一定要保持机器清洁,运动部件不卡线､不绕线｡
In case of thread jamming, disconnect the power and the needle thread, manually crank the machine at a slow speed to take out the thread. Be sure to keep the machine clean and keep no jamming or winding of thread on the moving part.
缝线张力调节:张力太大,会引起断线､面料收缩等问题,张力过小,会导致缝合处露线太多,影响效果｡调节线的张力应以面料平整､缝合处无间隙,无明
显露线为最佳状态｡
Stitching tension adjustment: Too large tension will cause breakage of thread and shrinkage of shell fabric, etc., while too small tension will lead to too much exposed thread at the joint, thereby influencing the final effect. The tension
should be adjusted to realize flat shell fabric, zero clearance at joint, and no obvious exposed thread.
剖缝和刀车拼缝:必须按照机器的参数严格执行,以达到最佳效果｡
Seam cutting and splicing with blade: Must strictly follow the parameters of the machine to deliver the best effect.
设备维修:必须由经过专业培训过的人员维修｡
Maintenance: Must be done by the professional trained personnel.
设备保养:润滑和清洁是两大法宝,加油时切忌:该有油的地方没油,不需要油的地方油多的流出来污染面料｡双面呢面料属于灰尘比较多的面料,操作人员应养成每天使用气泵对机器进行除尘｡
Service of the equipment: The lubrication and cleaning are two trumps. Must avoid such situations in oiling: no oil on the needed places, while too much oil at the unneeded places to pollute the shell fabric. The double-faced woolen shell fabric is a kind of shell fabric with too much dust, so the operating personnel shall get into the habit of using air pump to dedust the machine every day.
十三､笔者以杭州坦途公司313/360型双面呢代替手工暗缝机为例,列举双面呢暗缝机的基本参数:
XIII. The author takes the Hangzhou Stanto's 313/360 blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen as a substitute for manual blindstitch for example to enumerate the basic parameters of blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen:
1､机器型号及用途?
Machine model and use?
双面呢暗缝机分360/313两种,360型做侧缝,313型做拼缝｡两台机器为一组｡
The blindstitch machine for double-faced woolen is divided into two models of 360 and 313. The 360 model is for sidestitch and the 313 stitch is for splicing. The two machines constitute one group.
2､整件衣服的完成率有多少?
What is the finishing rate of the whole piece of clothes?。