在线服装设计定制显瘦数码印花纺织品中英文对照外文文献翻译

文献信息：
文献标题：Engineered Digital Textile Print Design for Customized Curves（用于定制曲线的工程化数码纺织品印花设计）
文献作者及出处：Choudhary K. Engineered Digital Textile Print Design for Customized Curves[J]. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 2018, 10(3).
字数统计：英文 2217 单词，12880 字符；中文 4101 汉字
外文文献：
Engineered Digital Textile Print Design for Customized Curves
Abstract There are various instances when women feel the need to wear clothes for a slimmer appearance than their actual body shape. Looks and body appearance provide self-assurance to people, especially to those who are in a business related to physical appearances. Physical fitness and appearance have taken a parallel path in today’s world. Many designers have experimented with garments providing b ody shape deceiving and illusionistic effect through meticulous use of solid colors, slimming patterns, and illusion print designs. This research paper explores how smart edits in print design provide aesthetics blended with engineered slim looks, enhancing and customizing curves, per consumer preference, to create body size adjustments visually. The creative edits can be efficiently used for creating one piece/single garments customizing the curves and visual body shapes in synchronization with digital print design to enhance the body in a considerate manner.
Keywords: Digital print and pattern, slimmer look, printed garments, customized curves
Digital engineered printed textiles and customization opportunities Digital technology opens up a door of possibilities and opportunities for designers, manufacturers, and business owners in various fields related to printed garments and textiles. Breaking the limitations of repeat and number of colors per design; engineered design layouts, offer newer possibilities of shorter minimums and quick turnaround time (Ujjie, 2006). Engineered print design possibilities and quick turnaround times are crucial to the customized products, making them effective in terms of designing opportunities, quick production and product delivery.
Understanding customized curves
Examples from optical slimming design garment (Figure 1 A, 1B and 1C) are used for highlighting the body curves and creating a slimming illusion. These garments are created by effective use of dark and light color placements making the waist area appearance slimmer. The techniques of pattern cutting and placements of colors are used in the garments, and positioning colors and patterns in a considerate manner creates an illusion (Dean, 2012). A similar concept may be explored in print design using design variants other than combinations of solid dark and light colors to create slimming effects in garments. Digital printing technology offers a customization opportunity and choices for individual preferences.
Figure 1. A, 1B, 1C: Examples of slimming one-piece dress
The types of slimming dresses shown above (Figure 1A, 1B, 1C) are suitable for a larger bodied woman and provide the flexibility to look slim without needing to change who they are, instead, emphasizing how they dress. Cas Boutique DC is a designer boutique, owned by designer Maggie that offers custom-made garment design services. Designs and garments are created as per the body shape and consumer requirement to reflect the perfect look that suits the body and enhances perceived value (Jordan, 2010). There has been a remarkable change in the area of custom clothing after the rise of digital technology. Many initiatives have been witnessed throughout the fashion and garment industry in utilizing various aspects of digital technology such as 3D scan for different body types. The reverse engineering technique is used to create 3D models for garment fitting. Virtual mannequins are used for pattern cutting and visual trial in a virtual setting to modify the designs as per consumer need and desires (Pecoco, Galantucci, & Lavecchia, 2011). E-Commerce offers various design solutions; ‘CreyateStores’ by Arvind Internet offers customized men’s clothing for evolving online consumers (Mohan, 2014). Customization has been offered for digitally printed garments by online brands.
Research objective
The objective of this research is to explore variants in digital design and use of digital tools to offer creative design solutions for smart editable customization opportunities in slimming single piece garments. The target audience is women and the designs represented in this paper deal with the sensitive issue of women's appearance for fitted one-piece garments.
Methodology
The concepts used for customized curves and digital printing technology were studied by exploring the work of well-known designers catering to the specific need of consumers through customized clothing design, journals, and books in the area of customized clothing and digital printing technological advances and possibilities. Design experiments were carried out in digital form for consumer feedback/response. Three visualizations of standard single piece design concepts were created on digital software (Adobe Photoshop 6) using design variants such as shadow, color gradation, scale variation, and motif/pattern engineered placement. These design concepts were shown to women for feedback using a semi- structured questionnaire research tool.
Understanding curves and scope for customization
Fashion has certainly addressed the need for slimming body appearance in multiple ways. Caryl Franklin discusses the importance of medium size prints and patterns as the best choice to look slim. She explains that diagonal lines as compared to straight lines highlight the body to look slimmer (Franklin, 2011). There are ample references available for highlighting various body types through utilizing different garment types, color choice, and print and pattern design. These resources include designer label, online brands, and customization services. However, digitally printed engineered garments offer diversified elements of design, colors, and patterns for
customizing curves in a garment. Customized curves address the needs for shoulders, bust line, and waistline. People have different body shapes, popularly known as brick, pear, apple, vase, etc. (Squirelly, 2012). According to the research conducted in 2010 by researcher Andrew Hough; the hourglass shape is the most desired among the different body shapes (Hough, 2010). The hourglass, or perfect curvaceous body appearance, depends a lot on the way curves get highlighted in a dress.
Exploring digital print design on one piece garment & effectiveness of digital tools
It was observed through the study of existing designs that a few variants contribute effectively to create a sliming appearance in a single piece garment. The following four variants were considered while exploring design concepts for single piece garments.
a) Scale variation
b) Shadow
c) Curvilinear shapes
d) Motif/Pattern placement
The curve zones are indicated in a single piece garment as explained in Figure 2.
Figure 2. Template for Slimming guidelines
Design Template highlights concern areas of the body. Design variants such as shadow, scale variation, and pattern placement may be used strategically to create effective results following the indicated areas in dark grey color.
In Figure 3, basic design element dots were used in the top layer to create different segments for highlighting/slimming body parts indicated in the template (See 1A to 1E). In the medium layer three segments created using shadow (See 2A to 2C). Finally, in the base layer, a medium color of the base fabric was used. In each case, the design segments were created keeping in mind that each segment coordinates with the other and compliments the garment as a whole in different permutations and combinations (as shown in visualization Figure 4: Design Possibilities).
Figure 3. Design segments for highlighting/slimming body parts
Figure 4 depicts three garment design possibilities using permutation and combinations of design segments from Figure 3. Offer multiple design choices as per consumer preference. The number of design option possibilities depends on the possible number of permutation and combination segments and elements created by the designer.
Figure 4. Design Possibilities
Two-dimensional draping was done on the standard pattern of a single piece
garment to visualize slimming effect. Further, the customization process was explored through various online resources to understand and establish the links of producing design options as per consumer requirements. The slimming requirements and segmentation design options were discussed through a semi-structured questionnaire with women respondents.
Discussions and feedback
The questionnaire respondents were 30 Indian females between the ages of 18 to 35 years. It was assumed that Western garments would be preferred in this group of consumers, as per studies carried out by Cygnus Business Consulting and Research (2004). This study shows that the preferences among college and working women demonstrate a greater preference for Western and Indo-western apparel (Cygnus Business Consulting and Research, 2004). The respondents were given a small presentation about body type and customization. Further design explorations (Figure 3 & 4) were shown for feedback. The feedback was collected through an open-ended questionnaire research tool. After obtaining the feedback from the respondents, the qualitative data were analyzed based on Kruger's (1994) qualitative analysis of data. The analysis was done based on descriptive statements and its interpretation.
Profile of Respondents
Total Respondents: 30 (9 Medium, 6 Large and 5 Extra Large)
Age group: 18 to 35 years (studying and aspiring for a professional course/career or working. 18 respondents were representing age group 18 to 25 and 12 respondents were representing age group of 26 to 35 years)
Body type: Medium to Extra Large as indicated in the enclosed body measurement
Table 1: Body measurement table as per sizes indicated by respondent
Table 2: Respondents feedback and response analysis
Based on the consumer feedback, a basic framework for the customization process was designed in digital format. The basic framework includes three variants: a) Design segment options based on a common motif/pattern/theme on Top Layer, b) Shadow/color gradation on the middle layer, and c) Fabric base color on the lowest layer.
Permutation and combination of the above variants a,b,c creates multiple choices for consumer selection. The permutation and combination generate creative possibilities within a single design concept; designed strategically in segments. Smart edits in the online framework make the design process interactive. It provides freedom and simple editing solution to the consumer from a non- design background. Figure 5 illustrates the customization framework is a conceptual framework for online digital solutions for instant visualization and order placement for one or multiple garments. Smart edit options may be built into the online system with technical support. The enclosed conceptualized model represents a basic framework for customization with smart edits for one piece slimming printed garments.
Figure 5. Conceptualized framework suggests smart edits for customization, design variants, consumer interactive online interface, and effective visualization for making informed choices.
Customization and printing process
Using digital technology, designers can easily arrange the design segments as per size and position of pattern. Design segments may be created as per garment style and printed using high definition digitally printed fashion (N.A., 2014). The printing for customization may be done with various online service providers such as Spoonflower, First2print, Constrvct, InkdropPrinting, and Fabric on Demand/Karma Kraft. Since garment patterns are simple, stitching time and cost shall be reasonable. The garment pattern shall be a part of the digital artwork integrating the seam line for efficient cutting and stitching (Polvinen, 2012). A collection of designs may be displayed on the website and depending on consumer selection of design, style and size specifications and ready designs can be edited with minimal time consumption by consumer. Upon placing an order, edited designs may be sent for printing and stitching. The product delivery is the final step of this process.
Conclusion
The scope of creating customized printed garments is enormous. Researchers are recommending that designers/retailers/brands who address the needs of professional women will demonstrate better profitability (Batra & Niehm, 2009). Consumer needs are becoming more specific, as per body type, personality, professional image, and cultural environment. Engineered layout possibility in digital design is pushing the boundaries to encompass newer opportunities in printed textiles and fashion. It propels us to explore newer methods of conceptualizing printed garments. Today, printed garments are expressing far beyond themes, color palette, season, motif, print, and pattern; and consumers show a reasonable inclination towards the customization. The smart edit designing options proposed in this research paper are user-centric and interactive. The framework and design process discussed in this research paper provides smart customization opportunity to meet upcoming diverse consumer needs and desires.
中文译文：
用于定制曲线的工程化数码纺织品印花设计
摘要在许多情况下，女性觉得需要穿比她们实际身材更苗条的衣服。

外表和外形可为人们提供自信，特别是那些从事与外表有关的行业的人。

在当今世界，人们注重身体健康，但也绝不忽视外形美观。

许多设计师都曾尝试通过精心使用纯色、纤细图案和错觉印花设计，来制作具有形体迷惑和错觉效果的服装。

这篇研究论文探讨了印花设计中的智能编辑如何将美学效果和精心设计的苗条造型相融合，根据消费者的喜好增强和定制曲线，从而实现视觉上的身形调整。

创造性的编辑可以有效地用于创建一件/单件衣服，与数码印花设计同步，定制曲线和视觉身体形状，从而以体贴的方式塑造身形。

关键词：数码印花和图案、更苗条的外形、印花服装、定制曲线
数码工程印花纺织品和定制机会
数字技术为与印花服装和纺织品相关的各个领域的设计师、制造商和企业主打开了一扇可能性和机遇之门。

打破每次设计的重复和颜色数量的限制；工程化的设计布局，提供了更短的最小值和快速周转时间的新可能性
（Ujjie，2006 年）。

工程化印花设计的可能性和快速周转时间对定制产品至关重要，使其在设计机会、快速生产和产品交付方面更有效率。

了解定制曲线
以光学纤体设计服装为例（图1A、1B 和1C），它们突出身体曲线，营造纤瘦的效果。

这些服装是通过有效地利用深色和浅色的搭配，使腰部看起来更苗条。

在服装中，运用了图案裁剪和色彩放置技术，以体贴的方式来定位颜色和图案，从而创造出一种错觉（Dean，2012 年）。

在印花设计中也能探索出类似的理念，除了纯的深色和浅色的组合之外，还可以使用其他的设计变体，在服装中创造出纤瘦的效果。

数码印花技术为个人喜好提供了定制机会和选择。

图 1.A、1B、1C：纤体连身裙示例
上面所示的纤体服装类型（图1A、1B、1C）适合体型较大的女性，使她们不改变身材，只需通过着装便能达到瘦身且具有灵活性的效果。

Cas Boutique DC 是一家设计师精品店，由设计师Maggie 所有，为客户提供定制服装设计服务。

它会根据消费者的身材体型和需求来进行服装设计，力求贴合身形和提高
感知价值，打造完美外观（Jordan，2010 年）。

随着数字技术的兴起，定制服
装领域发生了显著变化。

在利用数字技术的各种方面，时装业和服装业都采取
了多种举措，例如对不同体型的3D 扫描。

逆向工程技术用于创建服装试穿的3D 模型。

虚拟人体模型可在虚拟环境中进行图案裁剪和视觉试验，以根据消费者
的期望和需求修改设计（Pecoco，Garantucci 和Lavecchia，2011 年）。

电子
商务提供各种设计解决方案；Arvind Internet 的“CreyateStores”为不断发展的在线消费者提供量身定制的男装（Mohan，2014 年）。

在线品牌为数码印花服装提供定制服务。

研究目的
这项研究的目的是探索数字设计中的变体，并使用数字工具来提供创造性设计解决方案，从而为单件瘦体服装提供智能可编辑的定制机会。

本文以女性为研究对象，探讨了合身连体式服装中女性形象这一敏感问题。

研究方法
根据定制服装和数码印花技术领域的进步和可能性，通过的定制化服装设计、期刊和书籍，探索知名设计师满足消费者特定需求的工作，从而研究了定
制曲线和数码印花技术的理念。

设计实验用数字形式进行，以获得消费者的反
馈/响应。

在数字软件（Adobe Photoshop 6）上，使用各种设计变体，如阴影、颜色渐变、比例变化和主题/图案工程布局，创建了三种标准单件设计理念的可视化。

使用半结构化问卷调查工具向女性展示了这些设计理念，以征求反馈。

了解定制曲线和范围
毫无疑问，时尚确实从多方面解决了瘦身的需求。

Caryl Franklin 讨论了
中等大小的印花和图案的重要性，认为这是看起来苗条的最佳选择。

她解释说，与直线相比，斜线突出了身体，使其看起来更苗条（Franklin，2011 年）。

通过不同的服装类型、颜色选择以及印花和图案设计，来突出不同的体型，有大量
的参考资料可供查阅。

这些资源包括设计师标签、在线品牌和定制服务。

然而，数码印花的工程服装提供了各种各样的设计元素、颜色和图案来定制服装中的
曲线。

定制曲线可满足肩部、胸围和腰围的需求。

人们有不同的体型，俗称砖
块型、梨子型、苹果型、花瓶型等（Squirelly，2012 年）。

据研究员Andrew Hough 在2010 年进行的研究，在不同的体型中，沙漏型是最受欢迎的（Hough，2010 年）。

沙漏型身材，或者说是完美的曲线身材，在很很大程度上
取决于曲线在裙子中的凸显方式。

探索单件连体式服装数码印花设计和数码工具的有效性
通过对现有设计的研究发现，有几种变体可以有效地在单件服装中创造出
纤瘦的外观。

在探索单件服装的设计理念时，考虑了以下四个变体。

a）比例变化 b）
阴影 c）曲
线形状 d）图形
/图案放置
如图 2 所示，在单件服装中显示了曲线区域。

图 2.瘦身指南模板
设计模板突出了人体的关注区域。

可以利用诸如阴影、比例变化和图案放置之类的设计变体，以按照深灰色指示的区域创建有效的结果。

在图 3 中，顶层使用了基本设计元素点，以创建不同的片段，用来突出显示/紧缩模板中显示的身体部位（参见 1A 至1E）。

在中间层中，使用阴影创建了三个片段（参见 2A 至2C）。

最后，在底层中，使用了基础面料的中色。

在每种情况下，创建设计片段时都要记住，每个片段应该相互协调，并以不同的排列和组合来补充整个服装（如图 4 所示：设计可能性）。

图 3.突出/紧缩身体部位的设计片段
图 4 描述了三种服装设计的可能性，这三种可能性分别使用了图 3 中的设计片段的排列和组合。

根据消费者的喜好提供了多种设计选择。

设计选项可能性的数量取决于设计者创建的片段排列和组合以及元素的可能数量。

图 4.设计可能性
在单件衣服的标准图案上进行了二维立体覆盖，达到瘦身效果。

此外，通过各种在线资源探索定制过程，了解并建立根据消费者需求制作设计选项的链接。

通过对女性受访者的半结构问卷调查，讨论了瘦身要求和细分设计选项。

讨论与反馈
问卷调查对象为 30 名年龄在 18 岁至35 岁之间的印度女性。

根据天鹅座商业咨询和研究公司（2004 年）进行的研究，人们认为西方服装将是这一类消费者的首选。

这项研究表明，大学和职业女性更喜欢西方和印度西部服装（天鹅座商业咨询和研究公司，2004 年）。

对受访者提供了一个有关体型和定制的简短演示，并展示了进一步的设计探索（图3 和4），以获得反馈。

反馈是通过开放式问卷调查工具收集的。

在获得受访者的反馈后，根据 Kruger（1994 年）对
数据的定性分析，对定性数据进行了分析。

分析基于描述性陈述及其解释。

受访者简介
受访者总数：30 名（9 名中号，6 名大号，5 名特大号）
年龄段：18 至35 岁（正在学习并渴望专业课程/职业或工作。

18 名受访者位于 18 至25 岁之间，12 名受访者位于 26 至35 岁之间。

）
身材类型：中号到特大号，如随附的身体测量尺寸所示。

表1：受访者的身体尺寸测量表
表2：受访者的反馈和回应分析
根据消费者的反馈，设计了数字化定制过程的基本框架。

基本框架包括三个变体：a）基于顶层的通用图形/图案/主题设计细分选项；b）中间层的阴影/ 颜色渐变；c）最底层为织物基色。

上述变体 A、B、C 的排列和组合为消费者提供了多种选择。

这种排列和组合在一个单一的设计理念中产生了创造性的可能性，以及分阶段战略性的设计。

在线框架中的智能编辑使设计过程具有交互性。

它为非设计背景的消费者
提供了自由而简单的编辑解决方案。

图 5 说明了定制框架，它是在线数字解决方案的概念性框架，用于一件或多件服装的即时可视化和订单安排。

智能编辑选项可以内置到具有技术支持的在线系统中。

所附的概念化模型代表了一个基本的定制框架，可以对单件瘦身印花服装进行智能编辑。

图 5.概念化的框架建议对定制、设计变体/消费者互动的在线界面，以及做出明智选择的
有效可视化进行智能编辑
定制和印花过程
利用数字技术，设计者可以根据图案的大小和位置轻松地排列设计片段。

设计片段可以根据服装风格创建，并使用高清晰度数码印花方式进行印花
（N.A.，2014 年）。

定制印花可以通过各种在线服务提供商完成，如Spoonflower、First2print、Constrvct、InkdropPrinting 和Fabric on Demand/Karma Kraft。

由于服装款式简单，缝制时间和成本应合理。

服装图案应成为数字艺术作品的一部分，通过整合接缝线以进行高效的裁剪和拼接（Polvinen，2012 年）。

可以在网站上展示设计的集合，消费者会根据对设计、样式、尺寸规格和现成设计的选择，花费最少的时间来进行编辑。

下订单后，经过编辑的图案可以被送去印花和缝制。

产品交付是这个过程的最后一步。

结论
定制印花服装的范围是巨大的。

研究人员建议，满足职业女性需求的设计师/零售商/品牌将表现出更好的盈利能力（Batra 和Niehm，2009 年）。

消费者的需求越来越具体，例如根据体型、个性、职业形象和文化环境。

数字设计中的工程布局的可能性正在推动边界，以涵盖印花纺织品和时装领域的新机会。

它促使我们探索将印花服装概念化的新方法。

如今，印花服装的表现形式已经远远超出了主题、调色板、季节、图形、印花和图案；消费者也表现出了合理的定制倾向。

本文提出的智能编辑设计方案以消费者为中心，具有交互性。

本文所讨论的框架和设计过程提供了智能定制的机会，以满足未来不同的消费者需求和愿望。