制鞋业流程之-成型

制鞋业流程之-成型
鞋⾯与⼤底成型ASSEMBLE UPPER&O/S 依照鞋⼦结构的不同, 通常分车中底与结帮两种成型流程:
According to the different shoe construction, there are two kinds of assembly procedure ,strobel & lasting. 结帮流程⼜分为⼀次流程及两次流程或多次流程.
For the lasting construction, there are
3kinds of procedure ,one time lasting & two times lasting or more than two time lasting.
这⾥仅以⼀次结帮流程为例,了解成型的过程:
Here only show the one time lasting procedure for example to know the assembly procedure:
1. 浸康特
SOAK TR COUNTER
1,浸康特时注意康特⾓不要浸胶。

Pay more attention to the bottom of TR counter can’t be soaked.
2﹐⽤镊⼦夹住康特放⼊513药⽔中,只要除康特脚外其他部分有碰到胶⽔,就马上取出来.浸胶不宜过久﹐过久会使康特软化。

Clip the counter with forceps and then put it into 513 primer . Don’t soak counter too long to avoid the counter from soften.
3﹐康特浸好后需放在铁纲滴⼲。

Put the counter on the iron shelf after soaking. 4﹐康特摆放铁架上凉⼲时不宜过久,不要超过15分钟。

Make the counter dry not more than 15 minutes.
5.操作员应戴上⼿套及⼝罩等环保⽤品.
The operator should wear the safe things of glove & respirator.
Applied Tooling:
铁⽹
Iron meshwork ⼿套 Glove
镊⼦
forceps 铁架 Iron shelf
1,从装鞋⾯的车架上取下鞋⾯,贴上流⽔标以便配双作业,剪断联机,放鞋⾯⼊流⽔带上.
Take the upper from the shelf and attach pair number sticker, then snip the thread that make one pair of upper together, at last put upper on conveyer belt. 2,剪线时不要剪到鞋⾯.
Don’t break the upper when snip thread.
3.注意鞋⾯要配双.
Note: Need make the upper pair.
2.准备放鞋⾯
PREPARE UPPER
Applied Tooling:
剪⼑
scissor
1.取⼀⼩块泡棉,对折好再夹在夹⼦上,刷胶时将泡棉在胶⽔⾥浸⼀下.
Prepare a little piece of foam or cloth and fold then nip it with clamp. Soak a moment before cementing.
2.从装楦头的车上取下楦头,将楦头底⾯周围10MM 宽刷⽩胶 Take the last from the shelf , then cement around last bottom 10mm width with latex.
3,刷胶时左⼿握楦头,右⼿拿夹⼦.刷胶要均匀到位. During cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold clamp. Make sure to cement evenly and completely .
4.操作员应戴上⼝罩等环保⽤品.
The operator should wear the safe things of respirators. 3.楦头底刷⽩胶
CEMENT LAST BOTTOM WITH LATEX Applied Tooling:
夹⼦
Clamp 胶壶 Glue pot
4.中底正⾯刷⽩⽔胶
CEMENT THE INSOLE BOARD
1.中底整形,压⼒30KG,时间5”.
Mold the insole board with pressure 30kg & time 5”. 2,刷胶前将中底板排放整齐,左⼿压住中底板,右⼿拿刷⼦.
Before cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold clamp.
3.⽤刷⼦沿中底上⾯周围15MM宽刷⽩胶,刷胶要均匀到位.
Take the insole board from the shelf , then cement around the top of insole board 15mm width with latex. Make sure to cement evenly and completely.
4.操作员应戴上⼝罩等环保⽤品.
The operator should wear the safe things of respirators. Applied Tooling:
夹⼦Clamp 胶壶 Glue pot
5.鞋⾯后跟刷胶
CEMENT HEEL UPPER
1.滚⾥及鞋⾯后跟两边擦黄胶,胶⽔要均匀,到位.不可积胶. Cement the both sides of collar lining and heel upper with 766N yellow glue. Make sure to cement evenly & completely but not amass into a pile.
2,刷好胶的鞋⾯﹐按规定在流⽔在线排放整齐, 保持顺畅的流程,流进烘箱。

Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure smooth through oven after cement.
3.设定烘箱的温度为70度,时间1分钟.
Adjust the temperature 70 & time 1min .
4.过此烘箱的作⽤是烘⼲胶⽔,软化鞋⾯.
Let glue dry & soften the upper through the oven.
Applied Tooling:
刷⼦Brush 胶壶
Glue pot
鞋⾯后跟/滚⾥刷胶过烘箱
6.贴后跟康特
ATTACHE HEEL COUNTER
1.左⼿拿鞋⾯﹐右⼿拉开内⾥.左⼿拿鞋⾯,右⼿如图所⽰拿康特,先使康特脚平齐画线,对准后跟中⼼点并贴死,再压康特的上沿固定.
Left hand hold the upper, and the right hand undraw the collar lining. The left still hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the counter as shown on the illustration No.2 . At first make the bottom edge of counter align the mark line & center mark, and press the bottom center portion of counter, then press the top center portion of it to fix the center position.
3.右⼿从中⼼点向两边固定康特下沿.
Press the counter bottom from the center portion to both sides.
4.5,固定康特外腰及内腰.
Attach the lateral & medial portion of counter.
6.贴滚⼝内⾥并摸平.
At last attach the collar lining & make it smooth.
4,固定康特外腰
3,固定康特下沿
5,固定康特内腰 2,固定后跟中⼼点 1,后跟滚⾥与鞋⾯须拉顺 6,滚⾥贴死并摸平
7.后跟康特整形
MOLD HEEL COUNTER
1,装上正确的定型模.通常热熔胶港宝⽤冷定型,康特⽤热定型,温度⼤约60度,压⼒5KG,时间⼤约8”.
Set up the correct molding mold. Commonly for hot melt counter use the cool mold, for TR counter use the heat mold with temp 60 & pressure 5kg & time 8 sec.
2.将装好康特的鞋⾯,分左右脚放在相应的定型模上.
Put the left & right upper with counter on the proper mould specially .
3.使鞋⾯后跟中⼼对准后定型模的中⼼,再整型.
Need back stitch 3-4 stitches on the start & stop stitching portion.
定型机
Back molding machine 定型模
Molding mold Applied Tooling:
8.贴中底
ATTACH INSOLE
1,左⼿拿楦头,右⼿拿中底,将中底中⼼点对准楦头中⼼点,从后跟往前贴.
The left hand hold the last to make up the bottom, and the right hand hold the insole to make the center match the last, then attach the insole on last from heel to front .
2.确保中底弧度与楦头弧度相吻合.
Make sure the insole fit with last.
9.鞋⾯余⽪刷胶
CEMENT THE TOE LAST ALLOWANCE 1.通常对于⼀次流程的鞋⾯,均⽤⽩⽔胶刷鞋⾯余⽪.对于多次流程的鞋⾯,均⽤PU 胶刷鞋⾯余⽪.
Commonly for the shoe that only need be lasted one time, cement the last allowance with latex. For the shoe that need be lasted more than one, cement the last allowance with PU glue.
2,左⼿拿鞋⾯,右⼿拿刷⼦.刷鞋⾯头庄余⽪10mm 宽.
The left hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the brush ,cement the toe last allowance with width 10mm. 3,刷胶要到位,均匀,但不能刷太⾼也不能溢胶.刷胶后放⼊流⽔线,送进烘箱.
Cementing should be complete & even but not too high or come out. Put it on the conveyer belt through the oven after cementing.
4,烘箱温度设为80度,时间2分钟.
Adjust the temperature 80 & time 2 min of oven . 5,过此烘箱的⽬的,使鞋⾯余⽪的胶⽔⼲⼀些.
Make the glue for the lasting allowance dry through the oven Applied Tooling:
刷⼦Brush 胶壶
Glue pot
鞋⾯结帮余⽪刷胶过烘箱
10.鞋头软化
SOFTEN TOP PORTION
1.调整鞋头软化模的温度150-200度,时间8-10”.
Adjust the temperature to150-200 and time 8-10” of mold for softening the upper .
2.⼀般⾜球鞋或鞋⾯⽪料较硬的鞋⾯需经过此流程软化,以免结帮后鞋⾯花⾓.
Commonly for the football shoe or the shoe that upper leather is too soft, both need through this procedure to avoid wrinkle after last.
Applied Tooling:
软化机 Soften machine
11.前接帮
TOE LASTING
1.设定正确的前帮机使⽤参数,压头压⼒:35kg.压着时间:5秒,扫⼑温度:室内⾃然温度.
Set correct parameter for the toe lasting machine: Pressure: 35kg,time : 5
sec ,temperature of wiper as the indoor’s .
2.前抓的排放要与楦头弧度相吻合.
The shape of claw should fit the last.
3.前帮时,中⼼点要对正,前⽖要抓齐印刷线(点),余⽪按印刷线作业. During toe lasting, make sure the center match the last & the claw of machine align the marking for lasting. Make sure the allowance follow the printing line.
4.结帮后,头庄⾼度要⼀致.
Make sure the toe height consistent.
Applied Tooling:
前帮机Toe lasting machine
12.插鞋叉,紧鞋带
INSERT SPACER & TIGHT SHOE LACE
1.插鞋叉,平齐鞋⾆上沿.再紧鞋带.
Insert the spacer between the tongue & lace and make the top edge align the tongue’s . Then tighten the shoe lace.
2.紧鞋带后,⽤量版⽐对助带⼝宽度是否正确.
Check if the width of eyelet stay is correct with gauge board.
13.拉腰帮
SIDE LASTING
1.拉腰邦余⽪需平齐中底印刷线.
Side lasting must follow the printing line on the insole .
2.结帮后内﹐内外腰须紧贴楦头﹐余⽪平顺且均匀。

After the allowance must be smooth & upper must fit the last on the medial & lateral portion .
Applied Tooling:
鸟嘴钳 Pincer 腰帮机 Side lasting machine
1,设定后帮机器正确参数,压⼒35公⽄,时间:5秒,扫⼑温度:室内⾃然温度.
Set the proper parameter of heel lasting machine with pressure 35 kilo, time 5 sec and temperature as the indoor’s .
2. 依订单楦头及后跟定型模更换扫⼑(圆⾓楦头⽤圆扫⼑). Change to the proper wiper of heel lasting machine as per the correct last & heel molding mold. (For round angle last, use the round shape wiper.
3.压完后帮后须对⽐后跟⾼度:相同号码之后跟⾼度要⼀致. Need check the heel height to make sure it’s consistence for one pair after pressing .
4.配双放⼊流⽔带,进⼊下⼀流程.
Pair and put it on the conveyer belt to process the next procedure.
Applied Tooling:
后帮机 Heel lasting machine 14.压后帮
PRESS HEEL LASTING
鸟嘴钳Pincers
压后帮对⽐后跟⾼度
15.磨景
ROUGHING
1,在磨景机上装上正确的砂带﹐⼀般⽤40#-60#的,将余⽪折绉磨平。

Set the proper emery tape on the grinding machine, commonly 40#-60#. Rough the toe lasting allowance flat on the wrinkle portion.
2,磨平后余留的粉屑﹐须运⽤吹风枪吹⼲净.
Blow the chipping clean with blower after roughing. 3.磨景不可磨破鞋⾯﹐不可有烧焦的现象﹐砂带须定时更换. Don’t break the upper & burnt the upper during roughing. The emery tape need be changed on time. Applied Tooling:
磨景机 Grinding machine 砂轮⽯ Emery wheel stone
16.余⽪压平
PRESS THE LASTING ALLOWANCE FLAT
1,选择正确的铁板烧.
Choose the proper iron plate as the last construction.
2,设定机器参数,对反⽑⽪版鞋⾯,铁板烧温度⽤室内温度,⽪料版温度80度;压⼒均为35公⽄,时间10秒.
Set the proper parameter of machine. For the suede version, the temperature of the iron plate is indoor; For the leather version, it need 80.For the both version, set the pressure 35 kilo, time 10sec. 3,操作时将套楦鞋⾯放正放稳,不可歪斜摇晃. 压平后放⼊流⽔线,送进烘箱.
Make the lasted upper match the center line & stay stably ,not allow to twist& roll. Put it on the conveyer belt through oven. 4,烘箱温度设为100度,时间4分钟.
Set the oven temperature 100 & time 4 minutes .
5,过此烘箱的⽬的,使鞋⾯定型.
Keep the upper shape fit the last through the oven.
Applied Tooling:
压平机Pressing machine 铁板烧Iron plate
17.CHECK 前后⾼度,⼤底配双 CHECK TOE & HEEL HEIGHT THEN PAIR 1,经过加硫之套楦鞋⾯,放于平台上,CHECK 其⾼度是否正确,并放⼊下⼀流程.
Check the height of lasted upper and pair then put it to the next procedure.
2.套楦鞋⾯及⼤底配双标上流⽔号,放⼊流⽔在线.
The lasted upper & unit sole pair and write down the pair number then put to conveyer belt.
查⾼度是否正确
: ⽔解笔
hydrolyze pen
Applied Tooling:
标流⽔号
18.画线
GUIDE MARK
Applied Tooling:
1.设定压⼒为4KG,调整放画线模的⽔平度.
Set the pressure to 4KG& adjust the guide marking level.
2.画线时先须标出鞋头和后跟中⼼点以利于⼤底鞋⾯贴合时对正.
At first make the toe & heel center on the upper to avoid the center comes off last.
3. 确保画线要⼀致.
Make sure the marking consistent.
⽔解笔
hydrolyze pen 画线模 Guiding marking mold 画线机 Guiding marking machine。