巴洛克的服装

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巴洛克时期风格服饰分析
Baroque style
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和谓巴洛克?
「巴洛克」是指十六世纪矫饰主义以后到十 八世纪洛可可以前,这期间的欧洲文化。(17 世
纪)
「巴洛克」(Baroque)原指一种形状不圆的 珍珠,后来却成为艺术上的用词,此字源于西班 牙语及葡萄牙语的「有瑕疵的珍珠」。作为形容 词,此字有「俗丽凌乱」之意。其实这也是对这 种华丽风格的讽刺。被用来称呼公元一六○○年 歌剧诞生到一七五○年巴赫去世之间的欧洲艺术。 这一时期,上接文艺复兴(1452年-1600年), 下接古典时期、浪漫时期。
Baroque style
The splendid court at Versailles had a leading role during high Baroque period. The people of the courts had to be dressed in the latest fashion according to the French dic- tate. News of the latest way of dressing was spread by the first fashion magazines, and by fashion dolls, dressed according to the latest ladies fashion and "men's fashion" Fashion was changing faster than ever before. The France fashion of Baroque was very elegant and luxurious. Men's clothing was even extravagant and more feminine. Heavy fabric such as damask, velvet and brocade were preferred and garments were lavishly trimmed and embroidered. The shirt which was embroidered or decorated with lace bulged out the chest and waist. The open seams of sleeves allowed the richly decorated shirt to be seen. The lavish lace cuffs were visible under the broad cuffs of the sleeves. The knee length, tight fitting outer coat came into fashion around 1670. It was made out of brocade and decorated with gold or silver braids and metal buttons. The vest worn underneath was a little shorter and had the same cut. Women's bodice had a comfort- able width when fashion was led from the Netherlands. With the arrival of French fashion,the waist was once more tightly laced. The reinforced stomacher was held together at the front over a tucker. The long trailing outer skirt was made of the same material as the bodice. The skirt was open at the front and the edges were folded over and pulled back and were puffed out over seat padding into French tail. The visible underskirt was made decorated with e. g. braid, cord, lace, ribbons, and embroidery.
文化背景:
17世纪的欧洲极为动荡;以德国为战场,几乎欧洲各国都参加的 举世闻名的三十年战争(1618~1648),正是这个时代的表征。荷 兰、英国步入资本主义社会,法国强化了中央集权的专制政体。在动 荡不安、民不聊生的环境下,皇宫贵族们却过着穷奢极欲的生活,追 求豪华、讲究排场成了表现权势的社会性、政治性需求。大兴土木建 造宫殿和花园,举办大型游园会、宴会。听音乐、现剧、赞助艺术创 作。在这个男性大显身手的时代,必然产生以男性为中心的强有力的 艺术风格,这就是巴罗克风格。巴洛克时期的服饰。
巴洛克风格
巴洛克鼎盛时期富丽堂皇的凡尔赛宫起着引领时尚作用。按照法国当时的法令,
宫廷里的人必须穿着最新款式。有关最新穿着方式的信息通过当时最初的杂志和通过 穿着最新款式的男女时装娃娃广泛传播。由此服装变换比以往任何时期都来得更快。 巴洛克时期的法国服装非常精美奢华。男装有些过分华美甚至过多的女忭化,常采用 花缎、天鹅绒和锦缎等华贵面料,并带有人量镶嵌线和刺绣。带有刺绣或花边修饰的 衬衫从胸部和腰部突出。从开缝的袖子可见装饰华美的衬衫,在宽人袖U的下面可见 层叠花边。1670年前后流行一种及膝长的合体外衣,采用锦缎面料,镶有金银线, 钉有金属纽扣。外衣里面是相同裁剪但稍短‘些的马甲。女装上衣在荷兰风格时期曾 宽松舒适,但到法国风格到来之时再次勒紧。紧身的胸衣前下摆与腰裙相连。拖尾外 裙采用与上衣相同的面料。外裙从前面打开,分别从两侧向后面折,最后在臀垫处蓬 起形成法式裙裾。展露㈩的里裙采用滚边、滚条、花边、缎带及刺绣等方式装饰。
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