western-europe-8-belgium_v1_m56577569830517922
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Cycle yourself silly around must-see medieval Bruges (p129).
Get away from tourist crowds at Ghent (p125), one of the country’s best-kept secrets.
Be silenced by Ypres (p132), a little town with a big place in wartime history.
BELGIUM
BELGIUM
110 BELGIUM •• H ighlights
BELGIUM
ቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱ
0
50 km
0
30 miles
To Rosyth
(Scotland); Hull
NORTH
NETHERLANDS
Eindhoven
SEA
Zeebrugge
ZHweitWn esterschelde
HISTORY
Bruges, Ghent and Ypres were Belgium’s first major cities, booming in the 13th and 14th centuries due to the cloth trade. Their craftspeople established powerful guilds (organisations to stringently control arts and crafts), whose elaborate guildhalls you’ll see in many cities – the most famous are those on Brussels’ Grand Place (p115).
Spa
Rocherath
Malmédy
Ὀ FRANCE
Sambre
Charleroi Godinne
N4
Durbuy
Stavelot E25
Dinant
Marloie La Roche-
Houyet
Rochefort Lesse
en-Ardenne Jemelle N N
E
Han-sur-Lesse E Champlon
BELGIUM
Meuse
BELGIUM •• H istory 111
days are grey and wet with occasional light snow.
In need of a splurge at discount rates? Brussels is the place to do it – on weekends. Many top-end hotels in the capital cut prices on Friday and Saturday nights to make up for the absence of Eurocrats. We’ve noted weekend rates in the relevant reviews.
Tienen Tongeren
Beersel Waterloo
E40
Lille
Ath
Tournai
E411
Liège
E19 Mons Binche
Charleroi Airport
E42 Namur
Meuse
Maas
GERMANY
Maastricht
Aachen
E40 Ayeneux
Eupen
Verviers E42 Botrange
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
Belgium’s weather is fickle. To avoid major dampness, visit between May and September. ‘Wretched’ best describes the winter months from November to March – the
When Protestantism swept Europe in the 16th century, the Low Countries (presentday Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg, often referred to as the Benelux) embraced it, much to the chagrin of their ruler, the fanatically Catholic Philip II of Spain. He ordered the Inquisition to enforce Catholicism, a move that led to the Iconoclastic Fury, in which Protestants ran riot ransacking churches, including Antwerp’s Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal (p121), Belgium’s finest Gothic cathedral. Inevitably, in 1568, war broke out. It lasted 80 years and, in the end, roughly laid the region’s present-day borders. Holland and its allied provinces victoriously expelled the Spaniards, while Belgium and Luxembourg stayed under their rule.
FAST FACTS Area 30,000 sq km Capital Brussels Currency euro (€); A$1 = €0.60; ¥100 = €0.67;
NZ$1 = €0.50; UK£1 = €1.48; US$1 = €0.78 Famous for chocolate, beer, WWI battlefields,
tennis greats, Tintin Official Languages Flemish, French, German Population 10.4 million Phrases goeiendag/bonjour (hello; Flemish/
French); tot ziens/au revoir (goodbye; Flemish/ French); bedankt/merci (thanks; Flemish/French) Telephone Codes country code %32; international access code %00; reverse-charge code %1224
BELGIUM
© Lonely Planet Publications 108
109
Belgium
Now really! How did Belgium ever get labelled ‘boring’? In a country where fine food is mandatory, beer and chocolates unbeatable and café culture common, how could anyone find it dull? And that’s without even mentioning Belgium’s history, arts, fashion or clubbing.
For the next 200 years Belgium remained a battlefield for successive foreign powers. After the Spaniards came the Austrians, and, in turn, the French. Napoleon was trounced in 1815 at Waterloo (p120), near Brussels. In 1830 the Catholic Belgians won independence from Holland and finally formed their own kingdom.
E313
National Park Hoge Kempen
Vleteren
Roeselare
Scheldt
Leie
Ypres A19 Poperingel
Ὀ Menen
E17
Kortrijk Mouscron
Oudenaarde
Aalst
E314 Leuven
Hasselt
Tervuren
BRUSSELS
to Bruges and within an hour you’ll be wandering along canals. Follow Flanders’ flat landscape to Antwerp – you’ll see the spire of the fabulous Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal well before arrival. One week Use the three-day itinerary, but add an extra night in both Brussels and Bruges. A day trip to Ypres is also a must. Put your French to practice in the Ardennes towns of Rochefort or La Roche-enArdennes – both good chill-out zones.
ITINERARIES
Three days Time enough to taste Belgium’s Big Three – Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp. Start with the capital’s Grand Place, followed by the Musée Horta. Train it
Kalmthoutse Heide
E19 Turnhout
Ostend Westhoek
Nature Reserve E40
Veurne Diksmuide
Damme Bruges N49
E40 Ghent
St-Niklaas E17 Scheldt A12
E14 ANTWERP
Lier Mechelen
België to Flemish speakers and La Belgique to the nation’s French speakers is an eccentric little country that takes time to know. Don’t make the mistake of judging it on day one or, worse still, in the first hour. Granted, you won’t be texting about the landscape or all of those little red-brick houses. But hang around awhile (it usually takes only two days) and you’ll soon reschedule your travel plans.
Chimay
D
Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve
St Vith
S
A Ourthe
R
Bastogne
ὈE411 Libramont
FLANDERS BRUSSELS
Bouillon
Semois
LUXEMBOURG
Arlon
Language Division
Flemish
French
German
WALLONIA
FRANCE
LUXEMBOURG CITY
HIGHLIGHTS
Surrender yourself to sublime chocolate shops and sensual Art Nouveau architecture in the capital, Brussels (p114).
Get away from tourist crowds at Ghent (p125), one of the country’s best-kept secrets.
Be silenced by Ypres (p132), a little town with a big place in wartime history.
BELGIUM
BELGIUM
110 BELGIUM •• H ighlights
BELGIUM
ቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱ
0
50 km
0
30 miles
To Rosyth
(Scotland); Hull
NORTH
NETHERLANDS
Eindhoven
SEA
Zeebrugge
ZHweitWn esterschelde
HISTORY
Bruges, Ghent and Ypres were Belgium’s first major cities, booming in the 13th and 14th centuries due to the cloth trade. Their craftspeople established powerful guilds (organisations to stringently control arts and crafts), whose elaborate guildhalls you’ll see in many cities – the most famous are those on Brussels’ Grand Place (p115).
Spa
Rocherath
Malmédy
Ὀ FRANCE
Sambre
Charleroi Godinne
N4
Durbuy
Stavelot E25
Dinant
Marloie La Roche-
Houyet
Rochefort Lesse
en-Ardenne Jemelle N N
E
Han-sur-Lesse E Champlon
BELGIUM
Meuse
BELGIUM •• H istory 111
days are grey and wet with occasional light snow.
In need of a splurge at discount rates? Brussels is the place to do it – on weekends. Many top-end hotels in the capital cut prices on Friday and Saturday nights to make up for the absence of Eurocrats. We’ve noted weekend rates in the relevant reviews.
Tienen Tongeren
Beersel Waterloo
E40
Lille
Ath
Tournai
E411
Liège
E19 Mons Binche
Charleroi Airport
E42 Namur
Meuse
Maas
GERMANY
Maastricht
Aachen
E40 Ayeneux
Eupen
Verviers E42 Botrange
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
Belgium’s weather is fickle. To avoid major dampness, visit between May and September. ‘Wretched’ best describes the winter months from November to March – the
When Protestantism swept Europe in the 16th century, the Low Countries (presentday Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg, often referred to as the Benelux) embraced it, much to the chagrin of their ruler, the fanatically Catholic Philip II of Spain. He ordered the Inquisition to enforce Catholicism, a move that led to the Iconoclastic Fury, in which Protestants ran riot ransacking churches, including Antwerp’s Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal (p121), Belgium’s finest Gothic cathedral. Inevitably, in 1568, war broke out. It lasted 80 years and, in the end, roughly laid the region’s present-day borders. Holland and its allied provinces victoriously expelled the Spaniards, while Belgium and Luxembourg stayed under their rule.
FAST FACTS Area 30,000 sq km Capital Brussels Currency euro (€); A$1 = €0.60; ¥100 = €0.67;
NZ$1 = €0.50; UK£1 = €1.48; US$1 = €0.78 Famous for chocolate, beer, WWI battlefields,
tennis greats, Tintin Official Languages Flemish, French, German Population 10.4 million Phrases goeiendag/bonjour (hello; Flemish/
French); tot ziens/au revoir (goodbye; Flemish/ French); bedankt/merci (thanks; Flemish/French) Telephone Codes country code %32; international access code %00; reverse-charge code %1224
BELGIUM
© Lonely Planet Publications 108
109
Belgium
Now really! How did Belgium ever get labelled ‘boring’? In a country where fine food is mandatory, beer and chocolates unbeatable and café culture common, how could anyone find it dull? And that’s without even mentioning Belgium’s history, arts, fashion or clubbing.
For the next 200 years Belgium remained a battlefield for successive foreign powers. After the Spaniards came the Austrians, and, in turn, the French. Napoleon was trounced in 1815 at Waterloo (p120), near Brussels. In 1830 the Catholic Belgians won independence from Holland and finally formed their own kingdom.
E313
National Park Hoge Kempen
Vleteren
Roeselare
Scheldt
Leie
Ypres A19 Poperingel
Ὀ Menen
E17
Kortrijk Mouscron
Oudenaarde
Aalst
E314 Leuven
Hasselt
Tervuren
BRUSSELS
to Bruges and within an hour you’ll be wandering along canals. Follow Flanders’ flat landscape to Antwerp – you’ll see the spire of the fabulous Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal well before arrival. One week Use the three-day itinerary, but add an extra night in both Brussels and Bruges. A day trip to Ypres is also a must. Put your French to practice in the Ardennes towns of Rochefort or La Roche-enArdennes – both good chill-out zones.
ITINERARIES
Three days Time enough to taste Belgium’s Big Three – Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp. Start with the capital’s Grand Place, followed by the Musée Horta. Train it
Kalmthoutse Heide
E19 Turnhout
Ostend Westhoek
Nature Reserve E40
Veurne Diksmuide
Damme Bruges N49
E40 Ghent
St-Niklaas E17 Scheldt A12
E14 ANTWERP
Lier Mechelen
België to Flemish speakers and La Belgique to the nation’s French speakers is an eccentric little country that takes time to know. Don’t make the mistake of judging it on day one or, worse still, in the first hour. Granted, you won’t be texting about the landscape or all of those little red-brick houses. But hang around awhile (it usually takes only two days) and you’ll soon reschedule your travel plans.
Chimay
D
Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve
St Vith
S
A Ourthe
R
Bastogne
ὈE411 Libramont
FLANDERS BRUSSELS
Bouillon
Semois
LUXEMBOURG
Arlon
Language Division
Flemish
French
German
WALLONIA
FRANCE
LUXEMBOURG CITY
HIGHLIGHTS
Surrender yourself to sublime chocolate shops and sensual Art Nouveau architecture in the capital, Brussels (p114).