Sage_Blouse_Pattern_second_edit

Sage Blouse

by Connie Peng

This is a pattern I created with yarn the color of sage. It reminded me of the sage bushes Cody and I used to walk by on our daily walks. He would brushed up against them and smelled like lovely sage for the rest of the day, that and dirt of course.

I really miss the walks, the lingering sage smell on his forehead, and on his tail.

And I really miss him.

I am sharing this pattern with you, and I ask that you in return please be kind to animals. Help an animal in need if you have the opportunity. Take time to pet dog or a cat.

***Please see edits at the last page of the pattern***

Notes:

•The sweater is knitted in rounds from top down. First the yoke section, then separating sleeves from body. The body then continued to work in rounds towards the bottom. The sleeve stitches

are later picked up and worked in rounds towards cuffs.

•Front and back are identical, you can work only St sts if you want the back to be plain and omit the subsequent purl rows or the gathering.

•Inc 1 st before and after marked st is worked by YO (yarn over) once before and once after marked st.

Yarn: Rowan Cashcottoon DK - 7, (7, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls, color: sage.

Measurements (widest at the chest): 35.5”, (38”, 40.5”, 43”, 46”, 49.5”) Sweater shown is 41” with 2.5” positive ease.

Gauge: 20 st x 26 rows = 4”x 4”

Needles: US # 5 or needles necessary to obtain gauge. I am a very loose knitter, unless you’re like me, #4 may be a better bet. Since the sweater, including the sleeves, is worked in the rounds, you will need circular needles (or dpns for sleeves.) I used 24” circular for casting on and the first few rows, then switched to 32”. For sleeves I used two circular needles method so both 24” and 32” were used again. Other Material: Waste Yarn, Stitch Markers, Crochet hook.

Abbreviations:

K = Knit

P = Purl

St st = Stockinett stitches, knit in every round. YO = Yarn Over

Inc = Increase CO = Cast On

K 3 sts into 1 st = Knit 3 stitches into 1 sts, (2 sts increased.)

PM = Place Marker.

Instruction:

CO 116 (120, 132,132,140,148) sts. Join in round, careful not to twist it.

Knit 1 round.

Purl 1 round.

Knit 1 round and evenly increase 0 (4, 0, 16, 32, 32) sts. Ending with 116 (124, 132, 148, 172, 180) sts. Purl 1 round.

Next round: Mark the 1st st (mark st by placing markers both before and after the st,) K 14 (14, 16, 18, 22, 24 ) sts - these sts will become the right sleeve, mark next st, K 42 (46, 48, 54, 62, 64) sts – these sts will become the front, mark next st, K14 (14, 16, 18, 22, 24) sts – these sts will be the left sleeve, mark next st, K 42 (46, 48, 54, 62, 64) sts - these sts will become the back.

Next round:

Inc 1 st by YO after marked st.

(for right sleeve) K3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8) sts, (K 2 sts into 1 st) once, (K 3 sts into 1

st) 6X, (K2 sts into 1 st) once, K3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8) sts. Note: the numbers in bold are edited

and correct 6/25/09.

Inc 1 st (YO) both before and after the next marked st and k the marked st. (that is, YO, Slip marker, k1, slip marker, YO.) Note: edited direction to be more specific 6/25/09.

(front) begin row 1 of Moorish Lattice pattern. (See edits at the last page for centering pattern.)

Inc 1st (YO) both before and after the next marked st. and k the marked st.

(for left sleeve) K3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8) sts, (K 2 sts into 1 st) once, (K 3 sts into 1

st) 6X, (K2 sts into 1 st) once, K3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8) sts. Note: the numbers in bold are

edited and correct 6/25/09.

Inc 1 st (YO) both before and after the next marked st. and k the marked st.

(back) begin row 1 of Moorish Lattice pattern. (See notes if a plain back is desired.)

Inc 1 st (YO) before marked st. and k the marked st.

Continue to work evenly on the sleeves in St st, work front and back in Moorish Lattice pattern. Inc 1 st both before and after marked sts every other row. Incorporate increased sts on the front and back into Moorish Lattice Pattern as you go (note: always knit the first st created by YO until the next YO row.)

Work until 37, (39, 43, 43, 43, 49) rows of Moorish have completed. That is, 1 patt + 17 rows of the second repeat (1 patt + 19 rows, 2 patt + 3 rows, 2 patt + 3 rows, 2 patt + 3 rows, 2 patt + 9 rows.)

From this point on, no further increase before or after marked sts along raglan line. Incorporate the marked st into sleeves and place marker between back and right sleeve, right sleeve and front, front and left sleeve, left sleeve and back.

Next round: Purl the front and back sts, Knit the sleeves sts.

Next round: Knit all sts.

Next round: Purl the front and back sts, Knit the sleeves sts.

Next round: K to the center 8 sts of front, *(k3 sts into 1 st) twice, k1, rep from * one more time, (k3 sts into 1 st) twice. Do the same for the back. Sleeves continue to knit in St sts.

Knit in St sts evenly in rounds until pieces measures 7.5” (8”, 8.5”, 8.75”, 9”, 9.5”) from CO.

Now it’s a good time to try the sweater on to see if the the length is right for separating sleeves from body. Take back a few rows if it feels long, add few rows if it feels still too short.

Separating Body and Sleeves

Put sleeve sts of both left and right on waste yarn, 68 (70, 76, 78, 82, 90) sts for each sleeve.

Join front and back together in round with 3 sts added on each side. (Use backloop method and CO 3 sts in between front and back at both sides when join the front and back together.)