Luosifen_Became_the_Hippest_Dish_in_China_螺蛳粉成为中国最

Noodles inspired by “industrial thinking” 8 Years before the pandemic began, noodle makers in Liuzhou were brewing an idea to take a different path from those promoting local specialty foods to other parts of China by opening chain restaurants or shops. 9 A city in southwestern China, Liuzhou is a key base for the automotive industry. By 2010, luosifen had already earned a following after being featured in hit culinary documentary “A Bite of China.” Specialized luosifen chains started to pop up in Beijing and Shanghai. But despite some initial fanfare1 and a government push, in-store sales fell flat2.
螺蛳粉的灵魂 14 虽然螺蛳可能是螺蛳粉中 最不一般的食材，但当地的酸 笋才是螺蛳粉的灵魂。 15 螺蛳粉令人绕道而行的臭 味来自发酵过的酸笋。生产商 表示，尽管螺蛳粉的酸笋料包 产自工厂，但每包都是按照柳
英语世界 2024·04
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handmade according to Liuzhou traditions, say manufacturers. 16 Bamboo shoots are highly prized in China, their crunchy and tender texture making them a supporting ingredient in many gourmet recipes. But as bamboo grows fast, the taste window for its shoots is extremely short, which poses challenges for preparation and preservation. 17 To retain the utmost freshness, farmers in Liuzhou’s suburbs get up before dawn for the hunt. Aiming for the tip of the plant, as it’s just surfacing from the ground, they carefully cut off the shoots above the rhizome. Before 9 a.m., the plants are harvested and handed to the processing factories. The bamboo shoots will then be unsheathed, peeled and slivered. The slices will sit in the pickling liquid for at least two months. 18 The secret sauce of pickling, according to Ni, is the mix of local Liuzhou spring water and aged pickle juice. Every new batch contains 30% to 40% of the old juice. 19 The ensuing fermentation isn’t just a waiting game. It also needs to be mindfully monitored. Seasoned “pickle sommeliers” are paid to sniff the “sour bamboo shoots” to track the fermentation stages.
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6 In the past, it would have been hard for non-locals to share Ni’s enthusiasm for this strange regional dish—or even to try it. But luosifen’s magic has unexpectedly spilled beyond its birthplace and overtaken the entire country, thanks to a DIY ready-to-eat form. 7 Pre-packaged luosifen—which many describe as the “luxury version of instant noodles”—usually comes with eight or more ingredients in vacuumsealed packets. “I have to say it has an impressive consistency and quality control in flavors,” says Min Shi, product manager of Penguin Guide, a leading Chinese food review site.
1 fanfare 大张旗鼓的宣传。 2 fall flat 根本未达到预期效果。
2024·04 英语世界
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10 Then in 2014, Liuzhou entrepreneurs had an idea: Mass produce the noodles and package them. 11 At first, it wasn’t easy. The noodles would only last for 10 days. The setbacks didn’t slow the momentum in a city renowned for its assembly and standardization capabilities. 12 As more luosifen workshops popped up, the Liuzhou government started to regulate production and award licenses to factories that met certain requirements, according to state media. 13 Government efforts have led to more research and upgraded technologies in food prep, processing, sterilization and packaging. Nowadays, most luosifen packages on the market have a shelf life of up to six months, which allows people, near or far, to enjoy the same flavors with minimal preparation. “In inventing the luosifen packages, Liuzhou people borrowed the ‘industrial thinking’ of the city,” Ni says.
气味浓烈的食物很少能成 为 国 民 美 食， 但 螺 蛳 粉 恰恰是个例外，它是中国最热 门的食物之一。 2 这道以螺蛳作汤底的米粉 就像榴莲一样，因其臭名昭著 的气味在中国的社交媒体上引 起了热议。 3 螺蛳粉起源于广西壮族自 治区中北部的柳州市。它是将 细米粉浸泡在辣汤底中，配以 酸笋、酸豆角、萝卜干、花生 和豆皮等当地出产的食材。 4 柳州市螺蛳粉协会会长、 柳州市螺蛳粉饮食文化博物馆 馆 长倪 铫 阳 说：“ 只 要 三 碗 就 能让你上瘾。” 5 对于像倪铫阳这样的柳州 人来说，除了一开始闻到的臭 味，一碗螺蛳粉还调合了丰富 而复杂的味道——酸、辣、咸、 鲜。
10 然后，到了 2014 年，柳州 的企业家们有了一个想法：批 量生产螺蛳粉并做成包装产品。 11 起初，这个想法并不容易 实现。生产出来的螺蛳粉只能 保存十天。在这个以装配技术 和标准化能力闻名的城市，挫 折并没有减缓发展的势头。 12 据官方媒体报道，随着越 来越多的螺蛳粉生产车间涌 现，柳州市政府开始规范生产， 并向符合特定要求的工厂颁发 许可证。 13 在政府的努力下，食品制 备、加工、灭菌和包装方面的 研究有所加强，技术也得到了 升级。如今，市面上大多数袋 装螺蛳粉的保质期长达六个 月，无论远近，人们都可以用 最便捷的方式来享受同样的味 道。 倪 铫 阳 说：“ 在 发 明 袋 装 螺蛳粉时，柳州人借鉴了这座 城市的‘产业思维’。”
受“产业思维”启发的米粉 8 在疫情暴发之前的几年 里，柳州的螺蛳粉生产商就在 酝酿一个想法，想要另辟蹊径 地向国内其他地方推广自己的 地方特色食物，而不是开设连 锁餐厅或连锁商店。 9 柳州位于中国西南部，是 汽 车 工 业 的 一 个 重 要 基 地。 2010 年， 因 在 热 门 美 食 纪 录 片《舌尖上的中国》中出现， 螺蛳粉已经赢得了一批粉丝。 北京和上海开始出现专门做螺 蛳粉的连锁店。但是，尽管最 初大力宣传过，政府也助力推 广，店内销量却未能达到预期。
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Luosifen Became the Hippest Dish in China 扫码听读
螺蛳粉成为中国最火美食
文 / 塞雷妮蒂·王 译 / 秦书未
By Serenitie Wang
It’s rare for an odorous dish to become a national favorite, which is exactly what’s happened with luosifen, one of the hottest food trends in China. 2 Just like the notorious durian fruit, this snail-based rice noodle soup dish has created a buzz on Chinese social media thanks to its infamous smell. 3 Luosifen originated in Liuzhou, a city in north-central Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. It features rice vermicelli soaked in a spicy broth, topped with locally grown ingredients including bamboo shoots, string beans, turnips, peanuts and tofu skin. 4 “It only takes three bowls to get you hooked,” says Ni Yaoyang, head of the Liuzhou Luosifen Association and director of the Luosifen Museum in the city. 5 For a Liuzhou local like Ni, beyond the initial stench, a bowl of luosifen is a delicious concoction with rich and complicated flavors—sour, spicy, savory and succulent.
Soul of the soup 14 While the snail may stand out as the most unusual ingredient in luosifen, local bamboo shoots are what give soul to the noodle soup. 15 Luosifen’s arguably off-putting scent comes from fermented “suan sun”—sour bamboo shoots. Despite being produced in a factory, every bamboo shoot packet sold with luosifen is
6 过去，非本地人很难像倪 铫阳一样对这道奇特的地方吃 食如此钟情，甚至连尝一尝都 不太愿意。但是，螺蛳粉的魔 力如今出人意料地冲出了它的 发源地，风靡了整个中国，这 得益于自助即食版螺蛳粉。 7 预包装螺蛳粉被许多人称 为“奢侈版方便面”，一般采 用真空包装，内含八种或八种 以 上 配 料。“ 企 鹅 吃 喝 指 南 ” 是中国一家业内领先的食品评 论网站，其产品经理石闽表示： “不得不说，袋装螺蛳粉在口 味和品质控制方面很出色。”