唐宋元明清服饰英语

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唐代文化是一种开放的类型,但宋代文化则 是一种相对收敛的类型,两者有很大的差异, 宋代在政治上虽然开放民主, 但由于“程 朱理学”的思想禁锢,和对外政策的妥协退 让,服饰文化不再艳丽奢华,而是简洁质朴。 宋代强调“存天理,灭人欲”的观念,使人 的个体对立性全部仰制了,对妇女的约束也 推到了极点,所以宋代女装拘谨、保守,色 彩淡雅恬静,宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚,还 是一般的百姓,都爱穿着直领, 对襟的褙子, 因为既舒适得体,又显得典雅大方。
But it was a fashion for women to wear men’s dress in tang dynasty. 《中华古今注》记,“至天宝年中,士 人之妻,著丈夫靴衫鞭帽,内外一体也”
张萱(女)“虢guó 国夫人游春图”
一、 Tang Dynasty
《新唐书· 五行志》中即记有“天宝初,贵族 及士民好为胡服胡帽"的史实
一、 Song Dynasty
褙子:是宋代女装中最具时代性的服装。宋 代男子从皇帝,官吏、士人、商贾、仪 卫等都穿。妇女从后、妃、公主到一般 妇女都穿。
宋代的褙子为长袖、长衣身,腋下开胯, 即衣服前后襟不缝合,而在腋下和背后缀 有带子的样式,但是并不系结,而是垂挂 着作装饰用,意义是模仿古代中单(内衣)
明代着补服的官员清代着补服的官员一品文官补子为仙鹤和水浪构成浪寓潮意潮谐朝字音取意为一品当朝七品文官鸂鶒补子三品武官豹补子五品武官熊罴pi补相似宋元之后渐流行至明代则成为妇女居家之常服清代的马甲也是由此发展而来
The Ancient Costume Culture of China
Before Qin Dynasty---Wangbo Qin~Tang Dynasty----Shi Yonghao Tang~Qing Dynasty---Qiao Jianmei Modern times---Shi XiaoLong
由隋入唐,中国古代服装发展到全盛时期, 政治的稳定,经济的发达,生产和纺织技术的 进步,对外交往的频繁等促使服饰空前繁荣。
一、 Tang Dynasty
The dress style in Tang Dynasty is open. Women's dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China's history. The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid.
一、 Tang Dynasty
胡服搭配: 浑脱帽或帷帽,窄袖紧 身翻领长袍,足登高聈 yǒu靴,蝶躞xiè带。
一、 Tang Dynasty
Women’s make-up:
Face powder(扑粉)、Pencil the eyebrow(画眉) huadian(花钿)、 Lipstick(描唇)
一、 Tang Dynasty
Huadian is also called meihuazhuang or Shouyangzhuang.
It is very popular in Tang and Song Dynasty.
一、 song Dynasty
Costume of Song Dynasty (960-1279) was simple and natural, reflecting the development tendency of the era. The style of costume in Song Dynasty tended to conservative, impressing people with the feeling of simple, pure and elegant. Narrow, long, thin are the main characteristics of women’s clothing.
some differences in sizes
of shirt and skirt.
一、 Ming Dynasty
•Official dress has a outstanding feature in Ming’s costume culture
•由于朱元璋文化低,无能力另创新的服制, 于是下诏:衣冠悉如唐代形制。 •于是明代官服上采周汉,下取唐宋,出现 了历代官服之集大成现象,成为封建社会末 期官服的典范。
唐朝服饰风格比较开放,服装款式、色彩、图案等都呈现出前所未有的崭新局面, 可谓中国服装中最为精彩的篇章,其冠服之丰美华丽,妆饰之奇异纷繁,都令人目 不暇接。
一、 Tang Dynasty
Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty, they were influenced by cultures and arts of the Western regions. The trades and cultural exchanges with Korea, Vietnam, Japan, Persia and other countries gradually became frequent. In this way, a special open and romantic style of dress and personal adornments was formed.
搭配:
上著:短襦或衫
佩披帛,加半臂
下著:长裙
一、 Tang Dynasty
大袖纱罗 半透明→代替襦袄 衫 袖 丝帛单衣,质地轻软 盛唐后:日趋加宽
高千《赠美人》: “粉胸半掩疑暗玉”
周濆“惯束罗衫半露胸
一、 Tang Dynasty
It is extremely rare that women dress the man’s garments during the long period of Chinese feudal society. 《礼记内则》曾规定,“男女不通衣 服。”
The costumes of Yuan Dynasty has no fixed style, the main style is robe. The robe has little difference between men and women.
However, due to the Characteristic of nation, the garments in Yuan Dynasty are divided into Mongolian style and Han style.
中国,被称为“服饰帝国”的地方,在
服装文化发展上有着悠久的历史。 不同时期的衣服在一定程度上反映 了政治、 经济、 军事、 宗教和特定 的历史阶段的民间习俗的情况。
一、 Tang Dynasty
From the Sui to the Tang (618-907), the ancient Chinese clothing developed to its peak, the political stability and economic development, manufacturing and textile technology, the frequent foreign relations, contributing to the development of clothing .
上衣下裳,上紧下短,并在腰间加襞 (bì)积,肩背挂大珠
一、 yuan Dynasty
一、 yuan Dynasty
元代蒙古族男子,戴一种用藤篾做的 “瓦楞帽”,有方圆两种样式,顶中装 饰有珠宝。
一、Ming Dynasty
There were many new changes in costume of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). The outstanding feature was that the buttons on the forepart replaced the band knots in use for several thousand years. The costume in Ming Dynasty basically followed the style of Tang and Song Dynasties, but there were
Bold 大胆 Colorful 绚丽多彩 Sexy 性感 Many styles 款式多样
一、 Tang Dynasty
The main costume of women:ruqun、men’s dress、hufu
襦裙 、男装、胡服
一、 Tang Dynasty
The most popular dress is ruqun. 即短上衣加长裙,裙腰以绸带高系,几乎及 腋下。
COSTUME CULTURE OF CHINA
China, known as a“ land of dresses”, has a long history in the development of its clothing culture. Dresses in different periods reflect, to a certain extent, the situation of the politics, economy, military affairs, religions, and the civil customs of the specific historical stages.
The Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) was the amalgamation age of ethnic groups in China’s history, and the dresses and personal adornments of the time also fully represented this feature.
唐朝服饰形成了独特的开放浪漫风格。
一、 Tastume is a major attraction of tang Dynasty’s costume. The most typical form of tang costume is bare chest and arms、gossamer、wide sleeve、long skirt. (袒胸、裸臂、披纱、大袖、长裙)
交带的形式,表示"好古存旧"。
一、 song Dynasty
It was already began footbinding in the song dynasty which "suancunjinlian" has came into being.
三寸金莲
一、 yuan Dynasty
一、 yuan Dynasty
蒙古族女子,时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟 冠”,高约70-100厘米,其顶端扩大成平顶 帽形;外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。
一、 yuan Dynasty
Zhisunfu:质孙服
Zhisunfu was just formulated in 1321 during the reign of Yuan Emperor Yingzong by referring to ancient systems: upper and lower short garments were pieced together; folds were added to the waistline, and big beads were hung on shoulders and the back. Emperors and officials in all ranks wore such garments, and the Han people called them as theYiseyi.(一色衣).
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