外文文献翻译中性化服装设计

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原文

The study on the design of neuter clothing

H ous e W

Abstract

Social and economic development, social thought, opening up and the progress of science and technology, men and women style presented the diversified pattern of neuter the fuzzy gender differences in style, from the beginning of non-mainstream des ign till n ow has develop ed i nt o on e of the mains t ream fas hi on d es ign style. Fashion brands have launched in recent years, the neutral flavor of fashion, neuter clothing market share of more and more, neutral fashion, with its broad group of sex leads the urban street fashion. Neutralization of free and open way of life style, gave people a comfortable and enjoyable.

K ey words: Neut e r; Cl ot hing; Gender roles; Design

1 Introduction

The beginning of the 20th century the rise of the feminist movement, make the neutral clothing as a kind of style into the line of sight of people. In the 90 s, the neutral clothing has used by each big brand clothing as one of the fashionable e lement s, s uc h a s dust coa t w i th a ne ut ral style, s ui ts, t-shirt s and j e ans have bec om e people like everyday clothes. Neuter clothing style is a simple, pure; reject all multifarious mincing, personalized style. As a special kind of clothing style, neuter clothing fashion has been intensified in the social life, so it is necessary for us to study the clothing neutralization phenomenon, to study its causes and the development of sociology. This article mainly from the sociological association as well as the relationship between men and women clothing and gender status in the society, which is based on analyzing the change of the study the social basis of the neutral clothing appear; Again from the social system, economic development, cultural trend and fashion designers to the influence of the neutral clothing style, etc., it is concluded that the neuter clothing phenomenon is the development of social consciousness, the sexual role transformation, the new clothing design trends are affecting the results.

Neuter clothing style has become the mainstream of one of the clothing style, can meet the demand of modern social personalized aesthetic. After more than a century of development, the neuter clothing style has represents a unique charm, is also one of t he fashion t r e nd i n th e fu ture. T hi s a r t ic l e throu gh t o the de pt h of the ne ut ral c lothing style formation and development, through to the neuter clothing design style and design characteristics of interpretation, through to the neuter clothing market development prospect of thinking, for the future research to neuter clothing style, to provide certain theoretical basis.

2Dress a nd gende r consciousne s s

Sex differentiation is one of nature's gifts. Not just the differentiation in humans; only humans, however, to make gender differentiation have cultural significance. Gender or sexual difference. For humans, the difference between men and women. Human gender is conceptually different from animal sex, because sex not only det ermined by the biologi c al characteristics of human, hu m an spi ri t and s oc ial natur e of human gender has a psychological social attribute, therefore, the human gender including biological sex, psychological sex and gender. Human biological sex, men and women is the difference in the structure of the body, this is the most basic difference, is the basis of the psychological gender and gender on. Psychological sex r efers to t he m en a nd women in such a s pec t s as pers ona li t y, te m perament, em ot iona l, and mental difference. Man’s social gender refers to people such as language, communication, symbols and education cultural factors constitute the judgment of the gender social standards. In human culture, clothing is the most directly reflect the culture of the gender consciousness form. Different dress of men and women is not only a feature of modern society, is also a historical phenomenon of very long. Costume history shows that as far back as 2800 BC Sue beauty, clothing on gender differences and gives a different form.

In 2000 published by the American psychological association and the university of Oxford encyclopedia of psychology cited for gender roles defined by Carroll: gender roles is decided by the certain culture is suitable for male and female behavior system, also including those men and women is seen as a form of basic attitude and

emotion. Gender roles (sex role), as by the society with a gender (male or female) consistent patterns of behavior. Men or women in such aspects as behavior, expression, tone of voice, clothing has its own characteristics, they play a different in t he soci e ty. Rol e a nd the division of labor a re o ften seen a s g od's truth. W omen wit h men's or women's men's wear, is one of the female role in sex rebelled, Simon child is called "men against" "she doesn't want to give up the right, but she also don't want to be deprived of the status of women, she chooses to participate in the world of men, even the most of it.”Women’s men's wear, with this "compromise" between active p ersona l ity a nd s ex ro l e, and amou nt ed to "a state of ps yc hologic a l b alance”.Women’s men's wear phenomenon is accepted by society. It embodies the value of men with the male sex of praise, in the interests of the patriarchal society.

The progress of the society makes the history of sexual personality and gender values vary in modern society, gender personality value has been changed, more equal g end e r p e r s onal i ty val u e. S oc ial real i ty i nevitably a f fect s people's dress code a nd aesthetic standards, amphitricha dress to freedom, but both sexes mode still exists. Aesthetic standard mutates, the majesty of male charm is not absolute, but rather masculine in miscellaneous in some women's gentle but reflect in the women's gentle feeling. Contemporary clothing reflects the characteristics that: men from wide fat to f it, in th e male s t yl e into the fibe r characteri s tics of beauty; Fiber the dress al s o stressed that the dynamics/embodies the moderate male style.

3The neuter clothing design style

In the field of clothing, style refers to the uniqueness and difference of clothes or accessories. Neuter clothing style is characterized by: clothing modeling may be, form and refined; No obvious gender tendency, clothing decoration element and simplified properly; Clothing main tone to neutral color or no color; Fabrics are used more comfortable, good plasticity material. Neutral style is not because of gender fuzzy and obliterates the personality characteristics, on the contrary, the appropriate to reflect neutral dress in rich individual character characteristic. This feature is composed of a state of uncertainty intertwined, and sometimes masculine, gently lyrical, and occasionally showed comprehensive lasting appeal. Therefore neutral style has

become popular, clothing lies in the grasp of the gender neutral style, one is the trend of the outside of the gender neutral, namely the excavation of the common elements; It is sex in contrast, namely to find the opposite sex element.

3.1Styl e restoring anci e nt w ays

Restoring ancient ways is to reminisce about the good things and miss, restoring ancient ways is not intact copy of the once popular element and clothing styles, but the designers through the change of The Times, to those who once popular element to a new style and show the world that once again the fashionable tide. Celine is neutral w ith repre s enta t ives of th e fa m ous brand, Paris f as hi on week 2012 spring and summer, Celina shows the spirit of going to go through with restoring ancient ways. Deliberately do big coat sleeves, make women more free and easy handsome taste between walking. Dolce & Gabbana 2012 autumn/w inter collection or elegant handsome or mature sexy Sicily noble men will bring us back in the 1910 s of 20th c entur y. E verywh e re the key s of the g ol d e mbroidery m a ke integral style, de l ic a te a nd costly, adding to the noble sentiment and drama.

3.2Style of deconstruction

In today's modern high-speed development, the social environment and cultural background is becoming more and more inclusive and diverse, the traditional concept o f m en a nd wome n dre ss ha bit s is unde rg o in g gr e at c ha n g e s. Men's wom e n wear, ladies' man, costume design concept and cut constantly innovation _.Deconstruction fashion style advocated jumping, fracture, split, combination of elements and collage, make the clothes appears cloud thickens, secrecy and rich connotation, very accord with neuter clothing aesthetic style.2012 Madison Martin Margie couture show of spring and summer, in a similar wardrobe of clothes as the prototype, her boyfriend will wear again after its deconstruction on women's bodies. Use has a strong sense of a chip cloak, deconstruction of stiff leather clamp, suit jacket with the sleeves cut off, and before the split leather skirt to deduce female neuter features of hale and hearty. 3.3Luxurious style

Future there will be two big trends: fashion is all the way toward simplicity. Another way is too costly. With the improvement of social economic level, more

attention paid to the clothing brand value, high-grade fashion like Dior, Burberry has far exceeded the consumption level of the general public, but because they lead the fashion, and high-end, limited release materials, and got some pursuit of quality of life o f cons um ers. Costly s tyle from class i ca l a rist oc rat i c l uxury, lux ur y and p opular culture and bold, passionate and enthusiastic, which creates a flashing and vulgar, bold and unrestrained, and elegant, gorgeous between infinite charm, luxurious, sex appeal and fashion. Brightly colored bright, bold lines, modeling is fashionable, rich move feeling, is the unique aesthetic art in strong pioneer characterization, is full of i magination and ornate t ha n i n re alit y. M i l an fashion w eek of 2012 aut u mn winte rs, Gucci 2012 will take us back to the 19th century, realize the Diablo, ornate classical lady feel.

4Analysis of characteristics of neutralization costume design

4.1Characteristics

Col or is the key to de cide things style, e a ch c o lor f rom col d to warm, fr om so ft to the strong can show different personality. Color than modeling, fabrics and other factors, said not to occupy a more dominant position, but he is the most direct to sensory stimuli. Clothing aesthetic value is by clothing color, shape and material of the three complement each other, perfectly together and show up. Such as: use more a vant-g arde s tyle bold and bright, high contras t c olor. Classic a l dress s tyle is t o a dopt the elegant, color coordinated color. Postmodern style emphasizes colorful, exotic style of national wind and by combining a variety of elements as the main c haracteristics.

4.2The characteristics

Clothing modeling can be divided into two parts, inside outside modeling and modeling, the equivalent of "style”.Refers to the structure of the clothing modeling design, it include the structure line, collar, sleeves, etc. The structure of the clothing line refers to reflect each splice site in the clothing, constitute a line of garments' integral form, including the provincial highway, pleat, line, decorative thread, etc. No matter and simplified structure line can be summarized as straight line, arc, and three kinds of curve. Light line spell able, curve, straight line and curve coordinate each

other, constitutes a pleasant visual aesthetic feeling. Line structure can sometimes create illusion, the designer can use it as fault rule design, make the wearer's body appear better than true state. Abandon the adornment of heavy and complicated, return t o s i mplicity, neutr a l cl o t hi ng w i t h mod es t a tt i tude i n the ey es of th e wor ld. S ex is no longer a designer to consider the primary factor, the design of the neutral clothing trying to weaken the differences of men and women in the physiological and physical structure, the profiles of the neutral clothing model presents the convergence between men and women style, contracted modeling nonsexual neutral clothing became one of t he fashion design.

4.3The fabric characteristics

Clothing design is not just on the canvas or drawings show the effect of clothing, but through a variety of fabric, through the fabric structure, fabric texture, fabric color feeling, fabric thickness form to reflect design modeling design. Someone put c lothi ng design a s the m ater i al of t he sc ul pture, the ap pe a r a nc e of cl ot hin g is use d to reflect the fabric, can produce heavy lines with thick cloth, frivolous fabrics can reveal the line of light again, pretty hard or soft cloth of contour line and each are not identical. With the gradual improvement of the quality of people's life, modern clothing is more and more pay attention to the principle of comfortable, beautiful, p ra c ti c al, advocat e na tu ra l, and pay atte nt ion to environment a l prote c ti on. T he development of science and technology also have greatly enriched the fabric market, designers can use a variety of texture of fabric, to enrich the design of the neutral clothing, in order to achieve the effect of pursuit. Using different appearance of the fabric to people's psychological feeling is not the same?

文献出处：House W. The study on the design of neuter clothing [ J]. Stellenbosch Papers in Linguistics Plus，2016，4（7）: 65-75.

译文

中性化服装设计研究

House W

摘要

社会经济的发展、社会思想的开放和科学技术的进步,男女着装风格呈现出了多元化的格局,中性化这种模糊男女性别差异的着装风格,从一开始的非主流设计到现在已经发展为主流的服装设计风格之一。近年来时尚品牌都相继推出了中性风味的时装,中性化服装的市场份额也越来越多，中性时装以其广泛的适群性引领着都市街头的流行。中性化风格带来的自由开放的生活方式,带给了人们一种特有的舒适与愉悦。

关键词：中性化；服装；性别角色；设计

1 引言

20 世纪初期女权运动的兴起使中性服饰作为一种着装风格进入了人们的视线。

90 年代,中性服装已成为各大品牌服装争相运用的时尚元素之一,带有中性风格的如风衣、西服、T 恤、牛仔裤等已经成了人们喜好的日常服装。中性化服装风格是一种简约的、纯粹的、摈弃一切繁杂矫饰的、个性化的着装风格。作为一种特殊的服装风格,中性化的服装时尚己经在社会生活中愈演愈烈,所以我们有必要去研究服装中性化现象,去研究它产生和发展的社会学根源。本文主要从服装与性别的社会学关联以及男女关系在社会中地位中的变化入手,探讨中性化服装出现的社会基础; 再从社会制度、经济发展、文化思潮和服装设计师们对中性化服装风格的影响等等,得出了中性化服装现象是社会意识的发展、两性性别角色的转变、新的服装设计潮流等不断影响着的结果。中性化服装风格已经成为主流的服装风格之一,符合现代社会个性化的审美需求。经过一个多世纪的发展,中性化服装风格已经代表着一种独特的魅力,也是未来的时尚潮流之一。本文通过对中性化服装风格形成与发展的深度剖析,通过对中性化服装的设计风格和设计特点的解读,通过对中性化服装市场发展前景的思考,为未来研究中性化服装风格的走向,提供一定的理论依据。

2 服装与性别意识性别分化是大自然的赐予。这种分化不仅仅表现于人类;但是,只有

人类,才使

性别分化具有有文化的意义。性别，即性的差别。对人类来说,即男性与女性的区别。人类的性别在概念上不同于动物的性别,因为人类的性别不仅由生物特征所决定,人类的精神功能与社会性质使人类的性别也有了心理的社会的属性,因此,

人类的性别包括生物性别、心理性别和社会性别三个层面。人的生物性别,就是男女在身体构造上的差别,这是最基本的差别,是心理性别和社会性别赖以存在的基础。人的心理性别是指男女在性格、气质、感情、智力等方面的差别。人的社会性别指人们由于语言、交流、符号和教育等文化因素构成的判断性别的社会标准。在人类文化中,服装是最直接体现性别意识的文化形式。男女两性的不同着装,不仅是现代社会的一个特征,也是久远的一个历史现象。服装史显示,远在公元前2800 年的苏美人,服装就以性别差异而赋予了不同的表现形式。

2000 年美国心理学会和牛津大学出版的心理学百科全书引用了 Ca r roll 为性别角色所下的定义:性别角色是由一定的文化所认定的适合于男性和女性的行为系统,同时还包括那些被看作是构成男性和女性的基本的态度和情感。性别角色(sex role),被社会视为与某个性别(男或女)相符合的行为模式。男子或女子在举止、神态、声调、服饰等方面有各自的特点,他们在社会中扮演着不同的。角色, 而且这种分工往往被看作天经地义的。女着男装,或女装男装化,是女性对性角色的一种反叛,西蒙波娃称作“男性反抗”“她并不希望放弃为人之权利,但她亦不愿被剥夺女性的身份;她选择参与男性之世界,甚至利用它。”女装男装化,就是凭借这种“主动性格与性角色之间的妥协”,而达获“一种心理平衡状态”。女装男装化现象,之所以被社会接受。是因为它体现着男性价值,内含对男性性别的赞颂,符合男权社会的利益。

社会的进步使历史传承的两性人格和两性价值观在现代社会中发生变异,性别人格价值的倾斜已在改变,两性人格价值趋于平等。社会现实的改变必然影响着人们的着装规范与审美标准,两性的着装趋向自由,但两性模式依然存在。审美标准发生变异,男性魅力已不是绝对的威严,而是男子气概中杂着些许女性温柔, 女性魅力也不再是柔婉,而是女性温柔中体现着力感。当代服装体现了这一特征: 男服由宽肥走向合体,在雄性风范中注入了纤美的特征;女服也在纤美中强调着力度/体现着适度的雄性风范。

3 中性化服装的设计风格在服装领域,风格泛指服装或饰品的独特性和差异性。中

性化服装风格的特

点是: 服装造型刚柔并济,形态雅致;服装修饰元素无明显性别倾向,繁简得当;服装主体色调为中性色彩或无彩色;面料也多采用舒适、（完整译文请到百度文库）可

塑性好的材料。中性风格并没有因为性别模糊而抹杀了个性的特点,相反,恰当的

中性着装能体现出着装者丰富的个性特色。这种特色是由一种不确定的状态交织

而成的,时而阳刚,时而柔美,又时而表现出综合韵味。因此中性风格也不断成为流行,中性风格服装的关键在于性别的把握,一是性别外的趋中性,即发掘共性的元素;

一是性别内的反差,即找寻异性元素。

3.1 复古风格

复古是对过去美好事物的追忆和怀念,复古并非原封不动的复制曾经的流行元

素和服装款式,而是设计师们透过时代的变迁,把那些曾经流行的元素以一种全新的

风貌展现给世人,再一次掀起时尚的大潮。Celine 是中性装的代表名牌,2012春

夏巴黎时装周上,Celine 展示了要把复古进行到底的精神。故意做大的外套的袖子,

令女性在行走间更有洒脱帅气的味道。Dolce&Gabbana2012 秋冬男装秀,或优雅

英俊或成熟性感的西西里贵族男士将我们带回 20 世纪初叶的 1910 年代。随处可

见的键金剌绣,使整体风格精致而奢华,更添贵族情调与戏剧色彩。

3.2 解构主义风格在现代化高速发展的今天,社会环境和文化背景也越来越包容与多

元,传统观

念中的男女着装习惯正在发生着极大改变。男装女穿,女装男裁,服装设计理念与

裁剪不断地推陈出新_。解构主义服装风格提倡元素的跳跃、断裂、分割、组合

以及拼贴,使服装显得的沉厚、隐秘而富有内涵,非常符合中性化服装风格的审美。2012 Madison Martin Margie 的春夏女装秀,以类似男友衣柜中的衣物为原型,将其解

构后重新穿在女性的身体上。使用有强烈存在感的一片式披风、解构的硬挺皮革夹、剪掉袖子的西装上衣及前开叉的皮革长裙来演绎女性冷峻、硬朗的中性化面貌。3.3 奢华风格

未来的时装将有两大发展趋势:一路是趋向简约;另一路是趋于奢华。随着社会

经济水平的提高,服装的品牌价值越来越受到重视,像 Dior、Burberry 之类的高档

时装己经远远超出了普通大众的消费水平,但由于它们引导着时尚,且用料高端、

限量发售,因而得到了一些追求品质生活的消费者的追捧。奢华风格汲取古典贵族的豪华、奢侈与流行文化的直露与大胆、激情与热烈,创造出闪烁与粗俗、奔放和高雅、华丽之间的无限魅力,突出奢华、性感与时尚。色彩明艳欢快,线条

大胆,造型摩登,富有动感,是独特的美感极强的先锋艺术的表征,充满了想象力和超乎于现实的华丽。2012 秋冬米兰时装周,古绮(Gucci) 2012 秋冬女装将带我们回到 19 世纪,体会暗黑、华丽的古典贵妇人感觉。

4 中性化服装设计的特征分析

4.1 色彩特征

色彩是决定事物风格的关键,每一种色彩由冷到暖,由柔和到强烈均可以表现不同的个性。色彩比起造型、面料等因素,虽不能说占据着更为主导的地位,但对感官的刺激却是最直接的。服装的美学价值是由服装的色彩、造型和材质三者相辅相成,完美地结合在一起而体现出来的。如:前卫风格多使用大胆鲜明、对比强烈的色彩; 古典主义服饰风格则釆用高雅的,色调统一协调的色彩; 后现代主义风格强调多姿多彩,以异域风格的民族风和多种元素相组合为主要特色。

4.2 造型特征

服装的造型可分为外造型和内造型两部分,相当于“款式”。内造型主要指服装的结构设计,包括结构线、领型、袖型等。服装的结构线指体现在服装各个拼接部位,构成服装整体形态的线,主要包括省道线、褶裥、分割线和装饰线等。结构线不论繁简都可以归纳为直线、弧线和曲线三种。直线干练,曲线轻盈,直线与曲线互相协调,就构成了令人愉悦的视觉美感。结构线有时候能够造成错觉,设计师可以利用它的视错规律进行设计,使得穿着者的身材显得比真实状态要好。摒弃繁复、细琐的装饰,回归简约,中性服装以温和的姿态出现在世人的眼前。性别不再是设计师要考虑的首要因素,中性服装的设计试图减弱男女在生理及身体构造上的差异,中性服装的廓型呈现出男女趋同的风格,造型简约的无性别的中性服装成为设计的时尚之一。

4.3 面料特征

服装设计不只是在画布上或设计图中表现出服装的效果,而是通过各种不同的服装面料,通过织物组织结构、织物的质感、织物的色感、织物厚薄形式来体现款式造型设计的。有人把服装设计喻为衣料的雕塑,服装的外形是用服装面料来体现的,用厚重的布料能产生粗重的线条,轻薄的布料又能流露出轻盈的线条, 挺硬或柔软的布料所表现的轮廓线又各不相同。随着人们生活质量的逐步提高, 现代的服装越来越注重舒适、美观、实用的原则,重崇尚自然,注意环保。科学技

术的发展也极大地丰富了面料市场,设计师可以使用各种质地的面料,来丰富中性化服装的设计,以实现其所追求的效果。采用不同外观的面料给人的心理感觉是不一样的。