外文翻译---纺织材料

Textile materials

S.H. Tong，J.E. Beard

1, definition: The fiber is a filament form material of the natural or artificial synthesis; the dope-dyed fiber refers to using the fiber of the cloth of textile.

2, dope-dyed fiber characteristic: The dope-dyed fiber has good physical performance such as certain length, detailed degree, elasticity, and brute force. Also have better chemical stability, for example: Cotton, wool, silk, hemp those natural fiber are the ideal dope-dyed fiber.

3, the dope-dyed fiber is classified: Natural fiber and chemical fiber.

①Natural fiber includes plant fiber, animal fiber and mineral fiber. A Plant fiber, for instance: Cotton, hemp, and fruit fiber. B Animal fiber, for instance: Wool, rabbit, silk. C Mineral fiber, for instance: Asbestos. ②The chemical fiber includes regeneration fiber, synthetic fiber and inorganic fiber. A Regeneration fiber, for instance: Viscose fiber, acetate fiber. B Synthetic fiber, for instance: Nylon/Polyamide, Polyester, Spandex - /elastic/strec/lycra, Ammonia black silk ribbon, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polypropylene, Fiber, etc.

C Inorganic fiber, for instance: Glass fiber, metallic fibered.

4, the textile performance of the common dope-dyed fiber: ①Wool: Pick up the moisture, elasticity , take performance to be fine , able to bear , damage by worms , not right to combine the dyestuffs with the metal while being acid. ②Silk: Hygroscopic, ventilative, gloss and take of good performance, applicable and acid and direct dyes. ③ Cotton: V entilative and picking up the moisture, take of good performance, be able to bear being damaged by worms, reduced even nitrogen, alkaline media, sulfide, reactive dyestuffs. ④ Viscose fiber: Hygroscopicity, getting ventilative and fine, color bright, raw material sources wide with low costs, properties are close to natural fiber, applicable dyestuffs the same as cotton. ⑤ Dacron: Fabric, very comfortable, protecting shape kind, wear-resisting, size steady, easy to wash and quick-drying, applicable to disperset dyestuffs, heavy nitrogen disperses dyestuffs and solubility reduces dyestuffs. ⑥Polyamide fiber: Wearability

very good, ventilative differences, applicable to acid dyes and distribute dyestuffs. ⑦Fine black silk ribbon: It is good to be fluffly and having fur senses, disperse dyestuffs and cationic dyestuffs applicably.

The milk textile fiber use the protein which separates by the milk as the basic raw material, results in the regenerated protein fiber after chemistry processing and the machine-finishing system. The protein in the milk the reason that can become the fiber, because it has the fiber high polymer basic condition: (1) the macromolecule is linear. The protein macromolecule has two kinds: One is the chain shape, namely linear, calls fibrin; another is spherical, calls globulin. The protein in the milk is the casein, which is a striation, it can become the fiber; but the hemoglobin is a globulin, and then cannot become the fiber. (2) Has the certain flexibility and the intermolecular force. The protein mainly composed by the carbon, the oxygen, the hydrogen, the nitrogen, the sulfur, in some protein also contains phosphorus, iron and so on, such as the casein includes phosphorus element. After ultimate analysis, in dry protein the element content for (%): H6.0~7.0, C50~55, O20~30, N15~17, S0.3~2.5.

From 19 century's ends, at the beginning of 20th century the foreign courtiers namely have started to research the regenerated protein fiber. In 1935 the Italian scientists, in 1938 English ICI Corporation, in 1939 Corn Product Refining Corporation once separately discussed to withdraw the protein from the cow's milk, the peanut protein, the corn, the soybean bean cake, then carried on the spinning. In the early 1940's, America, England have developed the labara; In 1945 America, England have studied the Soya protein textile fiber; In 1948 the US General Motors has withdrawn the Soya protein textile fiber from the bean cake, but mostly because the textile fiber performance is poor, which unable to carry on the textile processing but to sever the research. Recently a Japanese textile company developed the milk protein textile fiber has realized the industrialization production, because 100 kilograms milks only could withdraw two kilograms protein, caused the production cost excessively high, also the textile fiber thermal stability was