苏格兰格子文化

TheDevelopmentoftheCultureof
Scottish Tartan
And the Influence on Modern Fashion
Written by：Yang Liu
School of Foreign Language,
Zun Yi Medical University
November, 2015
Abstract
From the 3rd century A D to modern time, the Scottish Tartan has a long and rich history. There is following old saying can be best echoed that .The Scottish tartan is equal to the British history. Generally speaking, the culture of the Scottish tartan has the great influence on many aspects including regions, districts, royal, institutions, and so on. Meanwhile, as for the Scottish tartan of present, it is closely linked with modern fashion ideas.
Key words: Scottish tartan; culture; fashion
摘要
从公元3世纪起直到现代时期，苏格兰的格子有着悠久而丰富的历史，有一句俗语恰好印证这一点：苏格兰的格子，犹如一部英国的历史。

总的来说，苏格兰的格子文化对苏格兰人民的许多方面都有巨大的影响，例如，地域地区，皇室和机构组织等。

并且，对于今天的苏格兰的格子来说，它与现代时尚理念有着密切的联系。

关键词：苏格兰格子; 文化；时尚
Content
1.The development of the Scottish tartan.
1.1 Origin
According to the textile historian E.J.W Barber, the earliest evidence of tartan is found for afield from the British Isles. However, most people believe that tartan is mostly associated with Scotland. And the earliest documented tartan in Scotland, Antoni ne Wall, known as the “Falkirk” tartan dates from the 3rd century A. D. 1.2In the early of the development
Tartan was used to be the decoration of the normal dress by Scotland. With the ever-spreading of tartan, there appeared many different types, which are indicated the Clan, districts, regional, institutions. Meanwhile, there are even specific commemorative tartans for various events and certain ethnic groups.
Clan tartan is an important part for Scottish tartan. Clan is the earliest tribe in Scotland. To have a distinction, every Clan has their own specific pattern. For example, David Moriers An incident in the rebellion of 1745.the eight featured highlanders, wear over twenty different tartans
In the 18th century, the idea of groups of men wearing the same tartan is thought to originate from the military units
1.3The 19th century
With the many effective impact of great figures, such as the supporting of Jacobitismthe foremost weaving manufacturer William Wilson and Bannockburn and the Highland romantic revival. One of the most important effects is that the 1822 visit of King George IV to Scotland. Fromthat, the tartan has a pageantry that a sudden demand for tartan cloth and made it the national dress of the whole of Scotland.
1.4The Victorian era
“Authorities‟‟ on tartan have claimed that there is etiquette to wearing tartan, especially tartan or families. This concept of the entitlement to some certain tartans have made the term of universal tartan or free tartan, which describes tartan that can be worn by anyone.
1.5the 20th century
In this time, there are collected about 3500 different tartans actually in Scotland by some registers, with around 150 new designs being created every year, and with four ways of presenting the hues in tartan-“modern”, “ancient”, “weathered”, and “muted”. The Scottish Register of Tartan (SRT) is Scottish official tartan register. It includes two goals, one is to provider a definitive and accessible resource to promote and preserve tartan. The other is to be the definitive and source of the registration of new tartans.
2 The influence of modern fashion
2.1. Be the necessary element
As we can see that from the beginning to present, with the development of the technology, the tartan has become a kind of fashion, such as the Black watch and the Royal Stewart. It succeeds the features of the Scottish tartan, which are simple, steady and classical. And it becomes the indispensable element for designer to make the unparalleled dress.
2.2. Wide spread
Tartan is no longer limited to textiles, but is used on non-woven mediums suchas, paper, plastics packaging and wall covering. So all kinds of materials can apply to the use of tartan and high production, which made the fashion of tartan, can be speared around world for all people.
2.3. New tartan objects
T he tartan not only be created to dress ,but also the new tartan objects called tartanware,such as snuffboxes, jewellerycases, and desk items.When tourists visit the Scottish Highlands, they will go home with it, and Scottish –based businesses sent tartanware out as gifts to customers.
2.4. And the tartan fashion has the other following influences:
2.4.1. Tartan made a recover in its use in Punk tartan.
In the later 1970s, Punk music was a way for the young generation in the British Isle to impress their discontent with the royal, they dressed tartan, which had a long period been related to authority and gentility. In this way tartan, worn untraditionally, becomes an anti-establishment symbol.
2.4.2. In the 1980s, the Vivienne Westwood
It has an essential effect on improving the tartan fashion. No matter what is women dress of Victorian or restrictive clothing, all of these had added the elements of tartan, so that the contract of the simple and pure of the tartan and the thought of deviation from the norm can prove the inspiration to the designer such as Ralphlauren and CommedeCarcoms.
2.4.
3. In modern time
Today, it is generally stated that the most popular tartans are Black Watch, which is known as the “government set”, or the grant hunting tartan, the tartan was used is in current use, by several military units throughout the Commonwealth.We choose the tartan almost follow ourselves needs. We can choose the different colors and patterns just as we like. We think
Conclusion
The tartan…s origin and development has a long history, it has been a byword for British and a symbol of gentleman, and tradition. It combined with the fashion by designers and speared to the world. The recent years, tartan has become one of the
most popular elements of the faddish brand notionally and it also plays a vital role continually in the cycle of the fashion.
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