服装英语和品质术语

Ⅲ. 制衣專有名詞:




Jersey wear 針

Woven 梭織

Knitwear/Sweater 毛衫

Accessory 配件


Solid 凈色

Print 印花

Embroidery 繡花

Beading 釘珠

M/C Embroidery 机繡

Hand crochet 手鉤

Embellishment 裝飾類


Princess line 公主線

Outseam, inseam. 外骨, 里骨.

Grain line 布紋

Straight grain 直紋

Cross grain 橫紋

Bias cutting 斜紋裁


Shiny 反光

Twist 扭曲

Hiking 吊起

Tight 緊的

Loose 鬆的

Stretched 拉鬆

Puckering 容邹

Unbalance 不平衡

Check match 對格

Stripe match 對條


Vertical buttonhole 直鈕門

Horizontal buttonhole 橫鈕門

Seam allowance 子口

Interlining 朴

Elastic 丈巾

Main label 主嘜

Content label 成分嘜

Care label 洗水麥

Thread 線

Zipper 拉鏈

Spare button 士啤鈕

Interface 內貼

Lining 里布

Shoulder pad 肩墊


Tissue paper 拷貝紙

Price ticket 價錢牌

Hangtag 挂牌

Poly bag 膠袋

Hanger 衣架

Inner box 內箱

Carton 紙箱


Dye to match=D.T.M配色

Double turn 還口


Fabric defects 布疵

Rough yarn 粗紗

Color yarn 色紗


Buying/Photo shoot/Fitting/Grades/Gold seals/Mock shop

銷售/影像/尺寸/齊碼尺寸/落貨前/展覽 辦

Pilot/Wearer trial 頭版/試穿辦

CAD System


Four points system

Pre-shrinkage m/c

Fabric hanger

Color continuity card

Fusing m/c

Thermal paper


Workshop

Pre-production meeting

Straight-line production

Lockstitch-Single/Twin needle

Overlock-----3/4/5 thread

Twin ndl seam cover----flat bed/ Cylinder arm

4 ndl flat lock 哈鬚

Bar Tack

Button sew----lockstitch /Chainstitch

Botton hole-----lockstitch/Key hole

Zig zag

Blind hem

M/c maintenance/service---------mechanic

Hand steam iron with vacuum

Spot cleaning

Metal detector





Ⅳ. 各部份疵點總匯

Collar 領

常見領形

Crew neck 圓領 Notch collar 國民領

V-neck v領 Shawl collar 菜瓜領

Boat Neck 船形領 Turtle neck 高翻領

U-neck u領 Sailor Collar 水手領

Square neck 方領 Peter-Pan collar 小飛俠領

Draped cowl 挂帽領 Chinese Collar 旗袍領

Wing collar 翼 領 Shirt collar 襯衫領

Italian Roll 意大利卷型領 V-with collar v翻領

領位評語

Unbalance collar 領不平衡

Asymmetric collar 領位不對稱

Uneven collar width 左右領闊不一致

Uneven neckline 左右領圈不一致

Uneven collar point 領尖不對稱

Uneven lapel shapes 左右前領咀形狀不一樣

Too much easing at C.F. neckline 前領口溶位太多(有太多溶位於前中領窩)

Collar too tight at CB 後領中太緊

Collar band is twisting 領座扭曲不平順

Fullness at front collar and lapel 領及前領咀不平順

Neckline is not smooth 領圈不圓順

Neck setting not smooth 領子裝得不平順

High & low back neck 後領圈有高

低

Edge of front opening is crooked 前門領邊不直

Front opening not straight 前門領邊不直

Front facing is exposed at bottom hem 前門領貼在下擺處外露

Front opening facing is shorter than body 前門領貼短於大身

Neck was stretched 領圈拉松

Too much tie on front collar 前領處有豁口


Sleeve & Armhole 袖&夾

Puckering at left/right armhole 左右夾圈有溶位不平伏.

Too loose at right armhole, uneven for left/right armhole 右夾圈有拉松, 左右夾圈不相稱.

Sleeve running to back(衣袖走後) / Sleeve running to front(衣袖走前) 操兵袖

Too loose at front sleeve seam 前袖骨拉松

Too tight at back sleeve seam 後袖骨過緊.

Poor cuff setting 卡夫裝得不好

Sleeve placket is not set well 袖叉裝得不好

Underarm seam was stretched 袖底縫被拉松

Armhole setting not smooth 袖孔不圓順

Ease on sleeve cap is uneven 袖頂縮拱不均勻


Front/back 前後幅

Hiking at front, CF facing too short 吊襟

Hiking at back, lining too short 吊裡

Curve at CF zip(too much fullness at CF zip) 前中拉鏈溶位太多

Curve at CF zipper because of no easing of zipper. 前中拉鏈無溶位(引致紐曲)

Hiking at back / Hiking at front 後幅吊起 / 前幅吊起

Front panel is bigger than under panel(lining) 前幅底幅細面幅松

Lining too big, too short, too small, too long 裡布太大, 太短, 太小, 太長

Grain lines are not match at front & back panel 前後幅布紋不相稱

Front length uneven 左右前長不一致

Too loose at shell, Too loose at back/lining, turn insider out 底松, 面鬆, 向外反


Hem 衫腳

Seam binding stitch tension is too tight, causing bottom not smooth. 下擺絲帶過緊, 使下擺不平順

Bottom hem is not in line / not straight. 下腳不夠不平(直)

Twisting hem, puckering at hem 下腳紐紋起豆角.

Uneven hem 左右下擺高低不一

Vent length uneven 左右開叉長短不一

Uneven leg length 長短腳

Uneven hem line 衫腳不平均 / 不對稱

Pocket 袋

High-low pocket 高低袋

Both pocket set uneven 左右口袋裝得高低不一

Pocket not smooth / squared 袋不平服/不夠正方

Pocket flap not centered over pocket 袋蓋不正中

Both pocket shapes are uneven 左右口袋形狀不一致

Bottom part of pocket is sagging 口袋下部下垂

Pocket flap is misplaced 袋邊位置不對

Pocket is misplaced 口袋位置不對

Pocket is smiling 袋口開得不吻合

Pocket opening is fray 袋口有毛口

Pocket shape distorted 口袋變形

Pocket size and shape is not follow sample exactly 口袋的尺寸及形狀未按照實樣做

Pocket welt is uneven 上下袋唇不均勻

Poor pocket setting 口袋裝得不好

Binding 拉捆

Piping is uneven 捆邊不均勻

Piping is twisting and not smooth 捆邊扭曲不平順

Pleats 縮褶

Uneven shirring at back waist seam

後腰縮碎褶不均勻。

Shirring 碎褶

Elastic shirring is uneven 橡筋縮拱不均勻

Both side pleats not balance 左右褶位不一致

Darts placement is not follow sample exactly 褶位未按照實樣做

Pleats is misplaced 褶位不對

Shirring / Gathering 縮褶

Pleated 生褶

Darts 死褶

Beading & embroidery 釘珠&繡花

Beads stitching are not secure 珠子未釘牢

Embroidery stitching is too tight 繡花線太緊

Embroidery stitching too loose 繡花線太松

SHADING DEFECTS 色差問題

1) Color shading 色差

2) Color shading within one garment. 同一件衣服內有色差。

3) Color shading between trims and body. 配件與衫身之間有色差。

4) Shade differs from approved standard. 顏色與批核色版不同。

5) Shading caused by poor color interlining matching. 紙朴顏色不配合, 引致色差。



ACCESSORIES 輔料問題



1) Missing button / label / badge 漏鈕 / 漏嘜頭 / 漏章

2) Button position not well match buttonhole. 鈕與鈕門位置欠配合

3) Button inside out 鈕的底面倒置

4) Button marking not removed. 點鈕筆痕沒有清除

5) Damaged button/buttonhole 鈕爛/爛鈕門

6) Rusted stud 工字鈕生銹

7) Paint peel off on stud 工字鈕顏色脫落

8) Button and buttonhole not aligned cause bulge. 鈕及鈕門位置不配合, 引致谷起

9) Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through. 鈕門太細, 鈕不能順利通過

10) Uncut buttonhole / partially cut buttonhole 鈕門未幵 / 鈕門未開盡

11) Ragged edges at buttonhole 鈕門紗線不清

12) Broken buttonhole stitches 鈕門斷線

13) Button thread easily pulled out. 釘鈕線容易拉脫

14) Snap / rivet easily pulled off.吸鈕、撞鈕容易拉脫

15) Buttonhole is not match button size 鈕洞尺寸與鈕扣大小不相配

16) Button misplaced 鈕扣位置不對

17) Buttonhole misplaced 鈕洞位置不對

18) Button is not sewing security 鈕扣未釘牢

19) Button is sewn too tight 鈕扣釘得太緊

20) Buttonhole is fray 鈕洞有毛口

21) Key buttonhole density is too loose 鳳眼鈕洞的車縫線步太疏

22) Key buttonhole is misplaced 鳳眼鈕洞位置不對

23) Snap misplaced 揿鈕位置不對

24) Snap tape is misplaced 撳鈕扁帶位置不對

25) Snap tape setting not well 撳鈕扁帶裝得不好

26) There is bubble on buttonhole area 鈕洞周圍有氣泡

27) Hood and bar is misplaced 裙扣位置不對

28) Hole at zip top / end 拉鏈頂 / 尾有洞

29) Zipper setting is twisting 拉鏈裝得扭曲

30) Shoulder pad not attach to garment security 肩棉未釘牢

31) Shoulder pad not cover well 肩棉未包好

32) Velcro is misplaced 么朮貼位置不對

33) Waistband belt is not set straight 腰耳裝得不直

34) Waistband belt length and width are uneven 腰耳的長、寬不一致

35) Incomplete adhesive on interlining. 黏朴

未完全黏好

36) Strike through of adhesive on interlining. 黏朴膠露面

37) Strike back of adhesive on interlining. 黏朴脫落

38) Blistering occurred on interlining. 黏朴起泡

39) Insecure shoulder pad attached. 肩棉釘縫不穩

40) Label placement incorrect. 嘜頭位置不正確

41) Care label content not as specified. 成份嘜內容不符合要求

42) Main label and size/content label are set too closed 主嘜與尺碼成份嘜裝得太靠近

43) Main label setting is misplace 釘主嘜不井齊

44) Wrong care label sewn on garment. 成份嘜車錯位置

45) Label not properly secured. 嘜頭車縫不穩

46) Label sewn beyond label edge. 嘜頭車縫太入

47) Label sewing seam uneven / puckered. 嘜頭車縫不平均或起皺

48) Wrong accessories used. 用錯輔料

Button out of line. 鈕位不成直線


STITCHING AND SEAMS 線步和骨位

1) Raw edge 散口

2) Raw edges 爆口

3) Untrimmed thread ends 線頭未剪

4) Skipped stitches 跳線

5) Exposed stitching 露線

6) Broken stitches 斷線

7) Run-off stitches 間線落坑

8) Crooked stitches 線步彎曲

9) Poor join stitching 駁線欠佳

10) Unsightly over-lapping stitches 駁線不良

11) Stitches too loose 線步太松

12) Stitches too tight 線步太緊

13) Distorted stitches 車線不直

14) Broken seams 縫線爆幵

15) Expose stitch 落坑線外露

16) Inconsistent stitching 線步不一致

17) Uneven width on double stitching 雙線闊窄不均

18) Uneven stitching density / tension 線步密度 / 鬆緊度不平均

19) 1/4 top stitch not even 1/4面線有寬窄

20) Expose safety stitch 保險線外露

21) Inseam is uneven 內縫線不井齊

22) Merrow stitch density is too big 撥邊線步太疏

23) Overlap stitch is not well 反縫的接線不好

24) Top & under stitch tension not match 底面線力不相符

25) Uneven merrow seam 內撥邊線彎曲不直

26) Missing reinforcement stitches 漏車加固線步

27) Row of stitching missing – top stitch 漏車一行線——平車線

28) Stitch count less than standard 線步較標準少

29) All top stitch is uneven 所有的面線都不均勻

30) Blind stitch is broken 筒針有斷線現象

31) Blind stitch is wavy 筒線彎曲不直

32) Shoulder seam not smooth 小肩縫彎曲不直

33) Uneven folded width at bottom sweep 1/2〞hemming. 折車1/2〞腳圍闊窄

34) Blind stitching visible 挑腳線露面

35) Incomplete seam stitching 線步不到尾

36) Uneven for hem closure stitching, uneven stitch at hem 下腳車線不直

37) Exposed waistband running stitches 裙頭/褲頭見坑線

38) Not straight at front fly 褲鈕牌車線不順直

39) Not straight at back yoke 後擔干車線不直, 紐曲

40) Skipping stitches, looping stitches 跳線, 車線太鬆起耳仔

41) Seam allowance, sewing thread too tight 子口補間線, 線太緊起豆

角

42) Pleated seam 骨位打褶

43) Puckered seam 骨位起皺

44) Open seam 爆骨

45) Burst seam 爆骨

46) Under seam visible 底骨露面

47) Waviness on seams 骨位起波浪

48) Twisted seams / Seam rolling 扭骨

49) Twisting at side seam, Wavy at side seam 側骨紐, 不順直.

50) Seam closures uneven 骨位結尾不平均

51) Missing bar-tack 漏打棗

52) Seam not properly secured 骨位不牢固

53) Fullness on seams 骨位太谷, 不平伏

54) Seam not fully opened before stitching. 骨位未完全撥開間線

55) Cracked seam 骨位拉時有響聲(引致斷線)

56) Too loose at princess seam 前公主骨拉松起泡

57) Puckering at back princess seam 後公主骨溶位太多, 起皺/起豆角

58) Too tight or too loose at side seam. 側骨車線太緊或太鬆

59) Too loose at CF / CB seam 前中/後中骨太松

60) Too loose at shoulder seam, unbalance of front & back panel at shoulder seam 肩骨拉松(要落定位)

61) Too flat at shoulder seam, too slant of shoulder seam 肩骨太平/太斜



JEANS 牛 仔 褲



1) Waistband is wavy and twisting 腰頭有彎曲

2) High-low waistband ends 高低褲頭

3) Waistband corners not folded in right shape 褲頭角位形狀沒有翻好

4) Too loose at front rise / back rise 褲浪過松

5) Twist hem 褲筒紐紋

6) Twist leg 左右褲筒不對稱

7) Uneven leg length 長短腳

8) Twisted legs / twisted seam at legs 扭脾 / 脾位扭骨

9) Missing bar-tack 漏打棗

10) Inclined belt loops 歪耳仔

11) Mismatched belt loop color 耳仔顏色不對

12) Pocket bag caught in tack 袋布被打棗車死

13) Bulged fly 鈕牌谷起

14) Zip exposed when buttoned 扣鈕後拉鏈外露

15) Rusted studs / rivets 工字鈕 / 撞釘生銹

16) Fabric easily torn at snap position 吸鈕位布料容易撕爛

17) Snap easily pulled off 吸鈕容易鬆睥

18) Holes at hem after washing 洗水後腳位有洞

19) Uneven washing effect 洗水效果不均勻

20) Different lots of shade 缸色




SHIRT / BLOUSE 恤衫 / 衬衣



1) Mismatched stripe check / print over 1/8〞 不對條 / 不對格 / 不對印花超過1/8〞

2) Pattern matching is not well 衣服上的間條或格子未對好

3) Asymmetric collar 領位不對稱 / 不平均

4) Uneven collar point 領尖不對稱

5) Under collar exposed on outside of top collar 領反光

6) Open seam at collar points 領尖爆口

7) Uneven sleeve length 長短袖

8) Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar / yoke / cuff 外來物藏於後領 / 擔干 / 介英

9) Broken collar / cuff and hem after washed 洗水後爛領 / 爛介英 / 爛腳

10) Puckering at armhole 夾圈起皺

11) High-low pockets 高低袋

12) Pocket not smooth / squared 袋不平服/不夠正方

13) Pocket flap not centered over pocket 袋蓋不正中

14) Flap points not fully turned out 袋蓋尖未完全翻

出

15) Dart ends not stitched to a fine point 腰褶車線頭尾未有翻針

16) Uneven hem line 衫腳不平均 / 不對稱

17) Button out of line 鈕位不成直線

18) Yellowish interlining being see through 發黃朴布外透


WOVEN JACKET 梭 織 外 衣



1) Bubbles on collar 領面起泡

2) Uneven length of collar point 領尖長短不一

3) Collar point too blunt/not smooth 領尖太鈍, 不平滑.

4) Collar spread too wide/narrow 領尖距太闊/太窄

5) Tie space too big. 呔位太大

6) Lopsided collar/overlapping collar 歪領/疊領

7) Hi-low collar point(button down) 高低領尖(領咀鈕)

8) Crooked/twisted collar 領扭曲

9) Fullness of top collar 領面布浮

10) Yellowish collar surface 領面布黃

11) Some residues inside collar 領內藏雜物.

12) Uneven placket width 筒闊欠平均

13) Twisted / crooked placket 筒扭曲

14) Bubbles at placket 筒面起泡

15) Front placket not down to hem. 前筒不能到尾

16) Uneven fullness at armhole 夾圈底的布太多(不平均)

17) Wrong way insertion of zip 拉鏈插位方向錯誤

18) Snap easily pulled off 吸鈕容易鬆脫

19) Non-functional of buckle / snap / zipper 壞扣 / 鈕 / 拉鏈

20) Fabric easily torn at snap position 吸鈕位布料容易撕爛

21) Button backing lining(single layer) 鈕托底朴(單塊布)

22) Uneven or loose elastication on ribs 羅紋彈力鬆緊不均

23) Loosened quilting stitches 間棉線步太鬆

24) Puckered seam at hood facing. 帽面骨位起皺



Ⅵ. WASHING 洗 水


1) Different lots of shade 缸色 / 色差

2) Uneven washing effect 洗水效果不均勻

3) Streaky mark 洗水(條紋)痕

4) Crease mark 洗水摺(白)痕

5) Pilly / hairy on garment surface 洗水後表面有毛粒或起毛

6) Broken collar / cuff and hem 爛領 / 介英 / 腳

7) Sandy on garment surface 衣服表面有沙的感覺

8) Rock / sand inside pockets 袋內有石 / 沙

9) Different washing effect 洗水效果不同

10) Mildew or heavily odor garment. 霉味或很重的味在衣服上




Ⅶ. PRESSING 熨 衣



1) Poor pressing 燙工差

2) Wrinkle 皺

3) Wet 濕氣

4) GMT press too hard cause shiny mark 衣服燙過頭以致起光跡

5) Elastic is not pre-shrinkage before setting 橡筋未燙縮水

6) Seam not fully pressed open 骨位沒有完全熨幵

7) Crease mark 摺痕印

8) Burn mark 燒焦印

9) Water spot 水斑點

10) Color stain 顏色斑點

11) Melt 熔化

12) Glazing / shinny pressed 起鏡

13) Sheer / glossy 起鏡面

14) Pleated press 熨褶痕

15) Zip / button mark made by improper pressing 熨工欠佳, 引致有拉鏈痕 / 鈕痕

16) Poor pressing / fusing of interlining 燙朴/ 壓朴效果不佳




Ⅷ. CLEANLINESS 清 洁



Found oil stain 有油污漬

Dirty mark 污漬

There is dirty mark on garment 衣服上有髒跡

Cleaning mar

k 槍水漬 / 打槍痕跡




Ⅸ. PACKAGING / PRESENTATION 包 裝



1) Missing price ticket / hangtag / label 欠價錢牌 / 挂牌 / 嘜頭

2) Wrong placement of price ticket / hangtag / label 價錢牌 / 挂牌 / 嘜頭位置錯誤

3) Wrong size / color in assortment 尺碼 / 顏色分配錯誤

4) Improper folding 摺法不正確

5) Dirty poly bag 膠袋污漬

6) Broken export carton 外箱爛

7) Carton over weight 外箱過重

8) Incorrect carton size 外箱尺寸不合規格