中国古代服装(中英文)

中国古代服装Ancient Chinese Articles of Clothing姓名：×××班级：2010级14班学号：***************中国古代服装中国古代服装包括中国古代的各种衣裳、冠帽、鞋袜等服装，在世界上自成一系，其结构与款式随着生产与生活方式的发展而逐渐变化。

通过对古代服装的研究，可以认识历代人物的风貌。

在鉴定有关文物时，服装也是断代的重要尺度。

古代服装存世不多，在研究中除依据实物外，古代雕塑、绘画中的人物形象，也往往是重要的参考资料。

一、旧石器时代晚期周口店山顶洞人的文化遗存中曾发掘出骨针。

到了新石器时代晚期，在不同地区和族别的人们中间，服饰款式已各不相同。

以发型为例，大地湾文化中有剪短的披发，马家窑文化中有后垂的编发，大汶口文化中有用猪獠牙制成的发箍，龙山文化中则用骨笄（音gǔjī；指兽骨制的簪子）束发，陕西龙山文化之神木石峁（音mǎo）遗址出土的玉人头像，头顶有髻，可能就是用笄束发的反映。

因此得知束发为髻在远古时已是华夏族服装的特征。

二、夏商与西周夏商与西周时的衣着无实物存世。

据安阳侯家庄墓及妇好墓所出玉、石人像，可知商代贵族上身穿交领衣，腰束绅带，下身着裳，腹前系市(蔽膝)。

西周时遗留下来的人像材料更少。

从洛阳出土的玉人及铜制人形车辖来看，衣、裳、带、市仍是贵族男装的基本组成部分。

其衣用正色，裳用间色，并特别重视裳前之市。

三、秦与汉秦始皇陵兵马俑坑中大批陶俑的出土，为秦汉武士的服装提供了较充分的例证。

他们穿的半长衣所交掩之曲裾（音jū；指衣服的大襟或衣服的前后部分）虽较浅，但仍为深衣（古代上衣、下裳相连缀的一种服装。

为古代诸侯、大夫、士家居常穿的衣服，也是庶人的常礼服）之属，其下身着长裤，腰系施钩之革带。

这种装束在西汉时仍广泛流行，裤也逐渐向全社会普及。

冠制的确立是在汉代实现的。

上古时，华夏族之冠主要从属于礼制，男子成年时皆行冠礼。

汉代的冠则主要从属于服制，是身份、官职以至官阶的表征。

身份低微的人，只能戴帻（音zé；指古代的头巾）而不能戴冠。

冠本为加于发髻上的一个发罩，并不覆盖整个头顶, 帻则像一顶便帽。

冠和帻不能随便配合，文官戴的进贤冠要配屋顶状的介帻，武官戴武弁（音biàn；指古代的一种帽子，古代贵族子弟行加冠礼时用弁束住头发，礼成后把弁去掉不用）。

进贤冠前部高耸，后部倾斜，冠前有“梁”，可根据梁数的多寡来区别戴冠者的身份。

皇帝戴的通天冠和诸侯王戴的远游冠也都是在进贤冠的基础上增益华饰而成。

在区别尊卑方面,进贤冠上的梁虽然起一定作用,但梁数多不过三。

所以汉代又用绶（音shòu；指一种丝质带子，古代常用来拴在印纽上，后用来拴勋章）作为官阶的标志，不同等级的官员之绶的颜色、织法、密度和长度都不相同。

汉代妇女一般将头发向后梳成下垂的圆髻，名椎髻。

常着深衣，它的曲裾不但在下身缠绕好些层，且在其斜幅上缀以三角形物及长飘带。

以下是汉代妇女曲裾及男式服装：四、魏、西晋与南北朝魏、西晋时的服装，大体沿袭汉制。

唯流行褶装，且多戴当时称之为小冠的平巾帻。

南北朝时，由于北朝处在鲜卑或已鲜卑化的当政者统治之下，故流行鲜卑装，少数鲜卑族男子多穿圆领或交领的褊衣，着长裤、长靴，腰系装带扣的革带，头戴后垂披幅的鲜卑帽。

各民族长期杂处之后，这种装束也在汉族平民中普及开来。

另一方面，北魏的某些统治者出于政治需要，提倡汉化，于是皇帝和臣僚的祭服、朝服中又出现了峨冠博带的汉魏“威仪”。

五、唐唐代男子上自皇帝下至厮役,在日常生活中都穿常服,包括圆领缺袍、幞（音fú；指古代男子用的一种头巾turban）头、革带及长靴。

缺袍即开衩的长袍。

幞头则是由鲜卑帽演变出来的,它本是一幅头巾,系裹时两个巾角向前抱住发髻,其余两个巾角在脑后结扎,多余的部分自然垂下。

幞头的质料起初用黑色的缯或罗，以后又在巾角中用铜、铁丝作骨, 将它撑起来。

唐代的革带上起初装有供系物用的窄皮条，上面并固着若干方形饰牌、名。

依官阶之不同,分别用玉、金、犀、银、瑜石、蓝铁等材料制作，从而使革带也成为区别官阶的标志。

另外，北周时出现的“品色衣”，在唐代已形成制度，成为此后中国官服的一大特色。

唐代官员自一品至九品，服色以紫、绯、绿、青为等差。

唐代女装主要由裙、衫、帔（音pèi；指古代披在肩背上的服饰）组成。

这时常将衫掩于裙内，所以显得裙子很长。

帔又名帔帛，像一条长而薄的披巾，是受了西亚佛教的影响才在中原流行的。

唐代前期女装中还流行卷檐虚帽、翻领外衣等胡服，安史之乱后，此风渐歇。

唐代服饰：六、宋宋代服装大体沿袭唐制。

这时的幞头内衬木骨、外罩漆纱，可随意脱戴。

这时，皇帝和高官戴的展脚幞头，两脚向两侧平直伸出，可达数尺。

身份低的公差、仆役等，则多戴无脚幞头。

宋代妇女也穿裙和衫，这时的衫子多为对襟，盖在裙外。

裙较窄,多施细摺,福州黄墓中除出罗裙外，还有开裆裤与合裆裤，可见宋代妇女在裙内着裤。

起于五代时的缠足，至北宋晚期已逐渐流行。

宋代女式服饰：七、元元代蒙古男子所戴之帽圆形的名钹笠，方形或多角形的名瓦楞帽，俗称均为鞑帽。

元人之袍常在腰间施辫线，下身有褶，名辫线袄子，高官贵胄多以纳石失(织金锦)制作。

冬季常穿翻毛皮衣，名答忽。

贵妇戴顾姑冠，以木为骨，高三尺许，外包红绢，上缀珠玉，顶插木枝、翎毛，式样极特殊。

元代汉族，尤其是居住在江南的汉族即所谓“南人”的服饰大体与宋代无别。

元代服饰：八、明明初要求衣冠恢复唐制，其法服的式样与唐代相近，只是将进贤冠改为梁冠，又增加了忠靖冠等冠式。

明代的公服亦用幞头和圆领袍，但这时的幞头外涂黑漆,脚短而阔,名乌纱帽，无官职的平民不得穿戴。

公服除依品级规定服色外，还在胸、背缀补子。

文官补子中饰鸟，武官饰兽。

为褒奖官员的功勋，另特赐蟒袍、飞鱼服、斗牛服等服饰。

蟒是四爪之龙,飞鱼为鱼尾有鳍之蟒,斗牛则在蟒头上加弯曲的牛角。

官至极品则用玉带。

所以“蟒袍玉带”就成为这时大官僚之最显赫的装束。

以下是明代服装，从左至右分别是忠靖冠服、常服及皇后冠服：九、清清代改着满装。

清王朝以暴力手段推行剃发易服，按满族习俗统一男子服饰。

顺治九年（1652），钦定《服色肩舆条例》颁行，从此废除了浓厚汉民族色彩的冠冕衣裳。

明代男子一律蓄发挽髻，着宽松衣，穿长统袜、浅面鞋；清时则剃发留辫，辫垂脑后，穿瘦削的马蹄袖箭衣、紧袜、深统靴。

但官民服饰依律泾渭分明。

官员在袍外所着之朝褂多为石青色，故不用品色之服。

清代官服区别等级时，除继续用补子外，还特别重视缨帽的顶子。

一品官装红宝石帽顶，二品装珊瑚顶，三品蓝宝石顶，四品青金石顶，以下各有等差。

武官中之亲贵及有军功者，还赏戴花翎，有单眼、双眼、三眼之分。

因此清代官服遂以“顶戴花翎”为最显赫的标志。

明、清两代汉族女装变化不大，仍着衫、裙，清代后期始以裤代裙。

清中期以后女装层层镶边，称为“滚镶”。

清代满族妇女着旗装，她们不缠足，不束裙，皆穿旗袍，有时外加坎肩。

乾隆以后，满族女装中出现高底的“花盆底”鞋。

咸丰以后，又出现高大的“两把头”、“大拉翅”等发型，成为满族女装之突出的特征。

下面是清朝男装和女子旗袍：Ancient Chinese Articles of ClothingAncient Chinese articles of clothing including Chinese various ancient times’ kind s of clothes and crowns, hats, shoes and socks and other clothing develop into a unique system in the world. Its structure and design changed gradually along with the development of social production ability and people’s life style. Through the research to the historical costumes, we could know previous dynasties character's style. When the appraisal related to cultural relic, clothing is also the important criterion to distinguish dynasties. The historical costumes preserved till today aren’t many; in research, besides material objects, personas in ancient times’ sculpture s and drawings are often important references as well.ter period of Paleolithic periodPeople once excavated the bone needle from Choukoution upper cave man's remained culture. To the Neolithic Age later period, the clothing design has had something different among people at different districts and nationalities. Take the hairstyle as the example, in the Dadi Bay culture there is the clipped falling hair, in the Ma family Kiln culture there is the knitted hair that hangs behind the head, in the Dawenkou culture there is the hairband which is made from pig bucktooth, in the Dragon Mountain culture there is the bone hair clasp which is used to braid hair, and the jade sculpture of human’s head which is found in ShenMuShiMao relic in Shanxi Dragon Mountain culture with the hair bun on the top of the head is possibly the reflection of braiding hair by using bone hair clasp. Therefore we can know that in the ancient times tying hair to a bun has been the characteristic of China race clothing.2. Xia and Western Zhou DynastyThere are no material objects of attires in Xia Shang and Western Zhou Dynasty saved till today. According to the jade and stone sculptures of people excavated from Anyang Hou-family Village grave and Fuhao grave, we could know the Shang Dynasty aristocrats put the cross collarsclothes on upper body, tie the big belt round waist, wear skirt below, and before the abdomen is the SHI (a piece of clothing to cover knees). But the number of materials reflecting figures in Western Zhou Dynasty is less. From the jade sculpture of people and the human shaped bronze peg from Luoyang, we could know the upper garment, under skirt, belt, and shi are still the basic components of aristocrat men's clothes. The upper garment is dyed in orthodox colors, the under skirts the secondary colors, and the shi is paid lots of attention.3. Qin and Han DynastyPottery figurines excavated from the pit of Terra-Cotta Warriors and Horses in The First Emperor of Qin’s Grave provides full illustrations for the Qin and Han Dynasty warrior's clothes. Though the lapel of their half long dress is shallow, it still belongs to shen-clothes. They wear long trousers below and leather belts with hooks round waist. This type of dress is still very popular in Western Zhou and trousers popularize among the whole society gradually. And Han Dynasty’s crown mainly belongs to clothing system and was the attribute of status, government position, and official rank. Low rank persons could only wear the kerchief instead of the crown. The crown is originally a hood added to the hair bun and doesn’t cover the entire top of the head while the kerchief looks more like a casual hat. They couldn’t be collocated casually, the civil officers have to wear a jinxian crown with a roof shaped kerchief and the military officers have to wear the military bian. The front section of the jinxian crown rises high and the posterior tilts. There are several liangs in front of the crown and we could identify the status of wearers according to the number of liang. What’s more, both the Up to the Heaven crown worn by the emperor and the Travel Far crown worn by marquises are developed from the jinxian crown through being decorated with arnaments. In the matter of distinguishing superior and inferior, jinxian crown works to some extent but the number of it would not exceed three. So in Han Dynasty people use shou—a kind of ribbon as the symbol of their official rank. The color, ways of weave, density and length of shou varies according to different ranks of officers. Women in Han Dynasty often comb their hair to back and roll it up to be a round bun hanging down which is called zhui bun. The shen clothes that they often wear not only twine whose lapels several times below but also are decorated with triangle stuffs and long ribbons on its surface. These are the curving lapel dress for women in Han Dynasty and clothes for men:4. Wei, Western Jin, and Northern and Southern DynastyClothes in Wei and Western Jin inherit from Han system in a large degree. Dress with wrinkles is the unique fashion and people often wear pingjin kerchief which is called small crown at that times. During the period of Northern and Southern Dynasty, because the Northern Dynasty is under the occupation of Xianbei or the governors who have been Xianbei-lized, the Xianbeidress is in. A small number of Xianbei nationality men usually wear bian clothes with the circle or cross collar , long pants, boots , feather belts round waist and Xianbei hats with ribbons falling behind.After various nationalities live together with different nationalities for a long time, this kind of attire also popularizes in the Han nationality common people. On the other hand, certain rulers of Northern Wei Dynasty stemming from the political need, advocate sinicizing, therefore the emperors and civil and military officials' sacrifice clothing and court dress presente high officials Han Wei “impressive and dignified manner”.5. Tang DynastyOn the Tang Dynasty man from the emperor under to the male servant service, wears the casual cloth in the daily life,including Que gown with round collar, headwrap named Putou, leather strap and boots. Que gown is a vented long gown. Headwrap evolves from the Xianbei hat. It is a kerchief originally. When they wear the headwrap they put two angles front to wrap their hair bun and other two angles are tied up after the brain, while surplus angles fall down naturally. Headwrap's material uses black Zeng or Luo at first; later people make the bone with the copper and iron wire in the angle to support it. On Tang Dynasty's leather strap a narrow leather string is loaded at first to tie other things. And there are several square plate on the strap. According to the difference of official ranks, people use the jade, gold, rhinocero, silver, fine jade stone, blue iron and other material to manufacture leather strap separately, thus causes the leather strap also to become the symbol of difference official ranks.Moreover, “color clothes”which appears in Northern Zhou Dynasty has formed a system in Tang Dynasty and becomes hereafter a Chinese official's costume's big characteristic. The Tang Dynasty official from one to nine chief ministers of state takes the color purple, red and green, Qing as the grade of their official dress. The Tang Dynasty female attire mainly is composed of the skirt, shirt and ancient cappa called Pei. At this time they often hide shirt under skirt, therefore the skirt looks very long. P ei’s aother name is Peibo, like a long and thin trotcozy, and it is due to the influence of West Asia Buddhism that it becomes popular in the central plains. In early Tang Dynasty curl brim hat, turndown collar coat and other Hu Dress are also popular among female attire. But after Anshi Rebellion, this fad gradually rests.This is the clothes in Tang Dynasty:6. Song DynastyThe Song clothing follows Tang system roughly. At this time headwrap inside is supported by wooden bone, outside is covered with painted gauze can be put on and off freely. At this time, unfolded foot headwrap that emperor and senior officials wear stretches out its two feet to the both sides straight and can amount to several feet. Common difference at low status, servant and others then wear the non-foot headwrap. The Song woman also wears the skirt and shirt. At this timeshort shirts mostly are in the symmetrical-lapel style, covering the skirt. The skirt is narrow, multi wrinkles. In the Fuzhou yellow grave apart from the silk skirt, there are the split-crotch pants and the joint-crotch pants. Thus we can see the Song woman wears pants under skirts. What’s more, the foot-binding which originates in Five Dynasties has been gradually popular to the Northern Song Dynasty later period.This is the female clothes in Song Dynasty:7. Yuan DynastyThe round hat the Yuan Dynasty Mongolia men wear is called Boli, the square shape or the polygonal named corrugated hat whose popular name is Da hat. The gown of Yuan person is often added litzendraht lines on waist, below has the pleat and called the litzendraht lined jacket. Luxury clothes of senior official nobles is mainly made from NaShiShi (brocade weaved with golden strings). In the winter they often put on leather clothing with the turndown fur collar which is called Dahu. The Gugu crown which woman of quality wears takes the wood as the bone and measures three feet in height, with red silk wrapping and pearls and jade decorating outside the surface and branches and feather inserted on the top, causing the model is extremely special. The Han nationality in Yuan Dynasty, particularly those so-called “southerner”in south of Yangzi River’s clothing roughly is similar to that of Song.This is the clothes in Yuan Dynasty:8. Ming DynastyAt the beginning of Ming dynasty the emperor requests the clothes to restore Tang system. The style of their official costumes is close to that of Tang Dynasty, but the Jinxian crown is replaced by Liang crown, and with loyal crown and other crown styles added. Ming Dynasty's official's costume also adopt circle collar gown and the headwrap. But at this time headwrap is painted black on the surface with short and wide feet, and famous as the black gauze cap. The non-government position common people aren’t allowed to wear. Official's costume are also decorated with gayer patch in chest and back besides the clothes’colors decided according toofficial ranks. In the civil official patch there are birds while the military officers there are beasts. In order to award official's meritorious service, emperor bestows phthon robe , flying fish clothing, bullfight clothing and other clothings in addition. The python is the dragon with four claws, the flying fish is the python with fins and a fish tail, and the bullfight is the python added the curving cow horns on the head. And they use the jade belt when the official ranks to the upperest. Therefore the style of “boa robe jade belt” bec omes the most prominent attire of big bureaucrats at that time. These are loyal clothes, ordinary clothes and the queen clothes:9. Qing DynastyQing Dynasty is changed to Man dress. The Qing governors carrys out the custom of tonsure and exchanging dress by violent means and unify men’s clothing according to M an nationality’s custom. In 1652, emperor Shunzhi published "Clothing Color Palanquin Rule" issues and ordered to execute it, abolishing the Han nationality’s style in aspect of crowns and clothes since then. In the Ming Dynasty man all grow long hairs and pull them to a bun, wear the loose clothes, wear the stockings and shallow surface shoes; in the Qing Dynasty people do tonsure, keep the pigtail which hangs behind the brain, and wears the thin horse's hoof sleeve archery clothes, the tight sock and deep series boots. But the officials and people clothing distinguishes right from wrong according to law. The official Chinese-style unlined garments which officials wear outside the gown are often in stone green color, therefore the color clothing is not used. When people in Qing Dynasty distinguish difference ranks of official's costume, they continues to use patch but also pay great attention to tasseled cap's roof ornament. The first official rank installs the ruby on the top of the crown, the second rank installs the coral on the top of the crown, the third rank installs bluegems on the top of the crown, the fourth rank installs golden lapis lazuli on the top of the crown, and the following has their differences respectively. Among the military officers the close relatives, trusted subordinate of the emperor and those militaries who has great exploits are also bestowed to wear the peacock feathers which have differences of the single eye, double eyes and treble eyes. Therefore the Qing Dynasty official's costume then takes “bow peacock feathers” as the symbol of the most prominent official. Han nationality female attire in Ming, Qing Dynasty doesn’t change too much. Women still wear shirt and skirt, and begin to replace skirt with trousers in Qing Dynasty later period. During the intermediate stage of Qing Dynasty, the female attire is decorated with borders layer upon layer and is called the “rolls inlays”. Man nationality women in Qing Dynasty wear the Qi attire and they do not bind the feet, do not tie the skirt, all wears the Qi skirts, and sometimes wear sleeveless jacket outside the skirts. After Qianlong period, among the Man nationality female attire there appear a kind of “pot bottom” shoes with high bottom . And After Xianfeng period, there appear big “two heads” and “to pull wing greatly” and other hairstyles, becoming the prominent characteristic of Man nationality female attire. Here are some male clothes and Qi dress:。