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I went to London for ages.It is a cosmopolitan mixture of the Third and First worlds, of chauffeurs and beggars, of the establishment, the avowedly working class and the avant-garde. Unlike comparable European cities, much of London looks unplanned and grubby, but that is part of its appeal. Visiting London is like being let loose on a giant-sized Monopoly board clogged with traffic. Even though you probably won't know where the hell you are, at least the names will look reassuringly familiar. The city is so enormous, visitors will need to make maximum use of the underground train system: unfortunately, this dislocates the city's geography and makes it hard to get your bearings.

Westminster Abbey

The Westminster Abbey.A resting place of the royals, Westminster Abbey, is one of the most visited churches in the Christian world. It's a beautiful building, full of morose tombs and monuments, with an acoustic field that will send shivers down your spine when the choirboys clear their throats. The roll call of the dead and honored is guaranteed to humble the greatest egoist, despite the weighty and ornate memorabilia.

St Paul's Cathedral

The St Paul's Cathedral.Half the world saw the inside of St Paul's Cathedral when Charles tied the knot here in 1981. The venerable building was constructed by Christopher Wren between 1675 and 1710, but stands on the site of two previous cathedrals dating back to 604. Its famous dome, the biggest in the world after St Peter's in Rome, no longer dominates London as it did for centuries - a fact which irritates the bonnie prince's sense of architectural harmony. Visitors should talk low and sweetly near the whispering gallery, which reputedly carries words spoken close to its walls to the other side of the dome.

Westminster Cathedral is the headquarters of Britain's Catholic Church, and the only prime example of neo-Byzantine architecture in the city. The interior is part splendid marble and part bare brick - the money ran out. The 14 Stations of the Cross sculptures by Eric Gill and the marvelously somber atmosphere make this a great escape from coach tourists and traffic alike.

Green Bits

The Green Bits.Huge Hyde Park used to be a royal hunting ground, was once

a venue for duels, executions and horse racing, and even became a giant potato field during WWII. It is now a place of fresh air, spring color, lazy sunbathers and boaters on Serpentine Lake. Features of the park include sculptures by Jaco

b Epstein and Henry Moore, the contemporary Serpentine Gallery and Speaker's Corner. Regents Park is the home of London Zoo, a mosque, and an open-air theatre. The Queen Mary Rose Gardens in the center of the park are particularly spectacular. Nearby Primrose Hill has a great view of London.

Kew Gardens, in Richmond, Surrey, is both a beautiful park and an important botanical research center. There's a vast expanse of lawn and formal gardens and two soaring Victorian conservatories - the Palm House and the Temperate House - which are home to exotic plant life. Hampstead Heath is one of the few places in London where you can actually forget that you're in the middle of an 800-sq-mile (1300 sq km) city. There are woods, meadows, hills and bathing ponds and, most importantly of all, lots of space.

Plant your feet in two different time meridians at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich Park. Nearby is the world's biggest, emptiest and most expensive bouncy castle, the Millennium Dome, which is now closed as a tourist attraction.

Markets

The Markets.The huge Camden Markets could be the closest England gets to free-form chaos outside the terraces of football stadium. They stretch between Camden and Chalk Farm tube stations, incorporating Camden Lock on the Grand Union Canal, and get so crowded on the weekends that you'll think you're in the Third World. The markets include the Camden Canal Market (bric-a-brac, furniture and designer clothes), Camden Market (leather goods and army surplus gear) and the Electric Market (records and 1960s clothing).

The colourful Portobello Market is London's most famous street market, best seen on a Saturday morning before the gridlock sets in. It's full of antiques, jewelery, ethnic knick-knacks, second-hand clothes and fruit and vegetable stalls. Petticoat Lane is East London's celebrated Sunday morning market, but it's overrated, overpriced, and appeals only to those so bleary-eyed from the night before that they think they need broken chocolate bars, ugly trinkets and cut-price cans of Ajax. Brixton Market is a cosmopolitan treat made up of a rainbow coalition of reggae music, slick Muslim preachers, halal meat and fruit and vegetables. Its

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