The Unforgettable Hong Kong

The Unforgettable Hong KongThe plane arcs softly into its final descent at Hong Kong International Airport. Below, Victoria Harbour, and the silent rhythms of countless ships. Beyond, sloping mountains fence in a breathtaking city view that seems to stretch forever.This is no ordinary airport. This is no ordinary city.An elderly man passes by wearing pyjamas, bearing a brightly feathered bird singing merrily in its cage.Professionals gather at a roadside kitchen for noodles, congee and shrimp.Incense from a tiny Taoist temple drifts into the pounding beat of rock music pouring out of a discotheque.A ferry travels on the nearby water regularly, taking passengers to an isolated island 40 minutes away, where Buddhist temples and tiny fishing villages dot the landscape.Hong Kong. Here, 161 km. south of the Tropic of Cancer, beats the pulse of Southeast Asia’s heart. Where East greets West, and past colours present.Where does one start?The streets are exciting with the sheer force of so many lives, and so many contrasts, moving in so many different directions.Even transportation proves an experience. A double-decker tram provides a bird’s-eye view of neon signs twisted into huge Chinese characters, dwarfing the human parade below.Another tram, in operation since 1888, stumbles 396 m. straight up Victoria Peak. You see the city stretches out mute at your feet. The islands of the South China Sea are beyond, and further, the mountains of China.The Star Ferry makes its way across the harbour, leaving nothing but wonder in its wake. So much to see. So much to do.A Buddhist temple stands proud in the middle of the city. Inside, all is dark and quiet. The glow of the joss sticks beckons from across the cavernous room, grains of dust whirling upward in the reflected light.Within Walled Villages, hidden societies observe an age-old lifestyle. Steps away from the roar of the Hong Kong metropolis, they remain centuries removed.Further back in time, Sung Dynasty Village recreates the Chinese era from A.D. 960 to 1279. Beautifully constructed shops and houses, intricate costumes, typical wares and skilled craftsmen bring a past to life.The beaches of Repulse Bay, Stanley and Shek O, where sun worshippers and water sports reign. The Botanical Gardens, with exotic plants and animals. Golf, tennis, dancing, shopping or a harbour cruise.This is Hong Kong. And its only the beginning.Heart and Soul of a PeopleHong Kong may have been established in 1841 by British traders, but its roots extend far deeper.Small farming and fishing communities were scattered throughout the territory in the third century B.C.Today, this heritage remains strong, in a land of extraordinary customs and fascinating beliefs.Of an Eastern culture thriving amid one of the world’s most con temporary cities.Behind you, between briefcases and three-piece suits, an old man with his caged bird makes his way to morning tea.Symbolism exerts a powerful influence. Stone lions are everywhere, protecting banks and businesses from misfortune. Goldfish keep away evil influences.The graceful movements of Tai Chi colour the early morning street. This graceful martial art, practised by young and old, lends a surreal touch to the normal hustle and bustle.Festivals and celebrations dominate the calendar.The Dragon Boat Festival, with paddlers competing in the territory’s harbours; the Festival of Hungry Ghosts, when local people set out trays of food for the spirits believed to be temporarily released from hell; Chinese New Year, celebrating the coming of the new Lunar Year, a time to visit family.The beautiful lantern-lit mid Autumn Moon Festival; the Bun Festival on Cheung Chau Island; and the Ching Ming Festival, a time to visit the graves of dearly departed.One day it’s the Queen’s Birthday, another is the Birthday of Tin Hau, goddess of fishermen.A respect for tradition, a firm faith in all things spiritual, mystical and familial. These are the keys to the mysterious Chinese soul beating at the heart of Hong Kong; to a culture that never ceases to fascinate.Earthly Treasures“If you can’t find it in Hong Kong, it doesn’t exist.”The truth of this saying becomes abundantly clear.The variety of goods, both Western and Oriental, is astounding.Duty-free prices only add to the temptation.Turn left, and a sophisticated department store attracts you with designer labels from around the world.Turn right, and a street market herbalist offers dried root, snakes and tea.Jade, porcelain, pearl and gold weigh down store shelves.Antiques, both Oriental and Occidental, are pre-international market and pre-international priced.Everywhere — watches. Strikingly attractive designs, every maker under the sun. And stereos in every size, colour, shape and sound.Local tailors appraise your form as you pass. Their craft is flawless, their prices peerless.Beyond the tailors wait ready-to-wear clothes from the world’s famous designers.Whatever you’re looking to buy, Hong Kong is looking to sell.The Endless NightThe sun sets. Neon light blinds the night.Time stops, and you're about to experience the magic of a city that works as hard at pleasure as it does at business.The evening begins with a pre-dinner cocktail high up in a hotel overlooking the harbour. You gaze out the window, wondering where in all this wonderful glitter you'd like to go first.Perhaps a dinner on a sampan, or a Chinese theatre-restaurant.Afterwards, Chinese opera can envelop you in the magnificence of another world, another time. The discos and nightclubs are set to toast the rising sun.At the two racetracks, advanced computers monitor the action on the track and in the stands.Hopeful bets are placed, tense decisions made and Hong Kong’s most passionate spectator activity is underway.Movie houses show American, European and, of course, Cantonese films.There are plays, recitals, the Hong Kong Philharmonic, and arts festivals.Simply go for a midnight, moonlight stroll. Take in the colourful street life that never stops.Or ride a romantic ferry and let the world carry on without you.There is endless magic in the Hong Kong night.A Taste of the ExtraordinaryLike a child in a candy shop, the food lover in Hong Kong has little chance of knowing where to begin. You consider Cantonese, but remember that great little Chiu Chau place you passed in the afternoon.You’ve heard Shanghainese is a taste all its own, but maybe a fine Szechuan is in order.Then, there are the Vietnamese, Korean, French, Indian, Indonesian, Italian and other foods too many to mention.The dilemma. The delightful, mouthwatering dilemma.There are about 6,000 restaurants in Hong Kong — one for every craving.You won’t make it to every one, but you’ll have an unforgettable time trying.Dish after dish comes steaming to your table; snake, beggar’s chicken, eel cooked in wi ne, Peking duck, Mongolian hot pot, shark’s fin soup.Or “Dim Sum” —Cantonese for “to touch the heart” — lunchtime tradition dating back to the tenth century.Huge floating restaurants in Aberdeen, tiny dinner sampans floating in Causeway Bay, or dai pai dong open-air street stalls.For gourmets and for those with a no less enthusiastic passion for food in all its glory, dreams do come true. In Hong Kong.。