美白及抗衰老护肤技术

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Cause of Skin Aging
Extrinsic/Intrinsic Stress
UV light •Compression Air Pollution •Expression Smoking •Wounding Lack of sleeping Hormone unbalance Diet
Blood vessels
Sweat Sebaceous Gland Gland
Fibroblast
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Holistic pass way on fluid flow in skin
TiBaidu Nhomakorabeasue fluid
Lymphatic fluid
2-4 liter/day 16-18liter/day 18-22 liter/day
• 10-20% moisture in stratum corneum • NMF, Sebum film, Intercellular lipid help keep skin’s moistures
Sectional view of resilient skin
Sebum film
Components of NMF Amino Acids Organic Acids Minerals Others Vitamins Desmosome Involucrin
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Intercellular lipid
NMF
Sebum film
• Prevent moisture from Sectional view of resilient skin evaporating Sebum film • Keeps the skin surface smooth • Maintain pH (slightly acid)
Fitzpatrick Skin Type
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Skin Reaction to Ultra Violet (UV) Exposure
Example of Eastern Asian Skin:
Inflammation
Accelerate melanin production
Intercellular lipid
Desmosome Involucrin
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NMF
Skin Turn Over Cycle
14 days
14 days 14 days
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Skin pH
• Indication of hydrogen ion concentration and the level of acidity / alkalinity • pH 0 = strongest acid • pH 14 = strongest alkaline • pH 7 = neutral male : 4.5~6.0 • Skin pH female : 5.0~6.5
Basic Science of Skin
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Cross section of the skin
• Epidermis • Dermis • Subcutaneous tissue
Epidermis
Basement Membrane
Dermis
Subcutaneous tissue
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Blood
Blood vessel
(Vein)
2400 litter/day
Blood vessel
(Artery)
Lymphatic vessel
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Subcutaneous tissue
• Act like a cushion • Prevent body heat from diffusing • Protect the organs from outside coldness
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Facial Skin Thickness
• Epidermis = 0.07~0.17 mm • Epidermis + Dermis = 1.4mm
Epidermis
Dermis Subcutaneous tissue
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Epidermis
• Horny Layer
0 7 14
acid
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neutral
Skin pH
alkaline
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Dermis
• • • • Fibroblast Collagen Elastin GAGｓ
Collagen GAGｓ Elastin
Papillary layer
Reticular layer
Desquamation
Enzymes
Differentiation
Protein synthesis
Proliferation
Cell cycle
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Skin Turn Over
Desquamation
Enzymes
Differentiation
Protein synthesis
SK-II Skin Care: Whitening and Anti-Aging
第九届可持续个人护理品技术高峰论坛
June 25th 2012 Xianghong Yan
P&G SK-II Global Technical Marketing
Today’s Agenda
1. Basic science of skin pigmentation and aging 2. Longitudinal study on skin aging progression 3. SK-II Whitening Technology 4. SK-II Anti-Aging Technology
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Today’s Agenda
1. Basic science of skin pigmentation and aging 2. Longitudinal study on skin aging progression 3. SK-II Whitening Technology 4. SK-II Anti-Aging Technology
Today’s Agenda
1. Basic science of skin pigmentation and aging 2. Longitudinal study on skin aging progression 3. SK-II Whitening Technology 4. SK-II Anti-Aging Technology
Proliferation
Cell cycle Animation
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Skin Turn Over
Desquamation
Enzymes
Dead Cells
(stratum corneum)
Differentiation
Protein synthesis
Living Cells
(stratum corneum)
• Granular Layer • Prickle Layer
(stratum spinosum)
Horny Layer Granular Layer Prickle Layer Basal Layer
• Basal Layer
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Skin Turn Over
Skin Aging: Components Deterioration
Skin Components change: Stratum Corneum: Turns to be disorder, thickened Epidermis: Turn thinner in irregular DE Junction: Loose tightness and turn flat. Dermis: Matrix quality and quantity downgrade
ヒトの皮膚色は、原住地によって規則的に変異する。いわゆるグロージャーの法則に従って、低緯度で暗く、緯度が高いほど明るく なる傾向を示す。また、この違いが少なくとも５つの遺伝子によって決定されていることも知られている。 東京大学理学系研究科生物科学専攻 青木 健一 / E-mail:kenaoki@biol.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp http://www.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp/ken/news-back/030217b.html
Fat cell
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Basic Science of Skin Pigmentation
Skin colour map (indigenous people). The twin role played by the skin – protection from excessive UV radiation and absorption of enough sunlight to trigger the production of vitamin D – means that people living in the lower latitudes, close to the Equator, with intense UV radiation, have developed darker skin to protect them from the damaging effects of UV radiation. In contrast, those living in the higher latitudes, closer to the Poles, have developed fair skin to maximize vitamin D production. http://maps.grida.no/go/graphic/skin-colour-map-indigenous-people
NMF Water
NMF
NMF Cell membrane Involcurin
NMF NMF Keratin Filaggrin
NMF components: amino acids, mineral, vitamins
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NMF: Natural Moisturizing Factor
Proliferation
Cell cycle
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Skin Turn Over
Horny Layer (stratum corneum)
Granular Layer Prickle Layer (stratum spinosum)
Basal Layer
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Basal Layer
SK-II
Spots Become Darker by UV Exposure
Right after Sunburn 10 days
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Melanin life in skin
Stage 4: Melanin Degradation
Stage 1: Keratinocyte secret melanogenic cytokines
Basal Layer
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Stratum spinosum…
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Stratum corneum…
Tape test demo/trial
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Composition of Stratum Corneum
Inter-cellular Lipid
After 24 hrs
Day 7
Day 10
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SK-II
Where does Melanin Exist?
Normal white skin Tanned skin or spot
Stratum Corneum
Stratum Corneum
Basal Layer
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Keratinocyte
Stage 3: Melanosome transfer to keratinocyte
Melanocyte
Stage 2 Melanin is produced in Melanocyte
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Basic Science of Skin Aging