专业外语第五章

Chapter 5

Part a

Pattern Making（纸样制作）

Trousers（裤子）[英] [’trauzəz]

Many trousers do not fit because of an inaccurate crotch length.（由于立裆尺寸不准确，所以很多裤子穿起来不太合适。）To take this measurement, sit on a level chair and, with a tape measure, measure from waist, around hip curve, to chair.（采取这种测量方法：坐在一把椅子上，从腰围开始，沿着臀部曲线，用皮尺量到椅子水平面上。）Add 2.5cm (1 in) for ease. （加2.5cm松量。）Make a note of measurement. （记下测量的尺寸。）

You will also need waist, hips, outside leg length and length from waist to knee. （你还需要腰围、臀围、大腿的外侧长度（裤长）和从腰到膝盖的长度。）

Measurements in square brackets after each step are for the basic 91.4cm (36 in) block. （每项后面方括号中的数据，为91.4cm (36 in)的原型板数据。）

Waist: add 2.5 cm (1 in) ease 73.7 (29) cm (inch)

Hips: no ease 99.1 (39)

Crotch length 33.0 (13)

Outside leg 101.6 (40)

Waist to knee 58.4 (23)

Trouser Block (Fig. 5. 1)

pattern [英] [’pætən] 样板、纸样

Trousers [英] [’trauzəz] 裤子

crotch [英] [krɔtʃ] 裤裆、立裆

measure[英] [’meʒə] 测量

tape measure 皮尺（tape 带子）

waist [英] [weist] 腰、腰部、腰围

hip curve 臀部曲线[hip] [kə:v]

ease [英] [i:z] n. 1. 容易; 2. 舒适3.从容4.宽裕5. 放松，缓和

square brackets [英] [skwɛə] n. 正方形adj. 方的[英] [brækit] 括弧

basic block [英] [’beisik] 基本的[英] [blɔk] 纸样、样板

(1) Approximately 25.4 cm (10 in) down from top of paper and 20.3 cm (8 in) in from left draw a horizontal line AB, half the hip measurement [49.5 cm (19.5in)]. （距纸上边约25.4 cm (10 in)，距左边约20.3 cm (8 in)，画一条水平线AB，其长度为臀围的一半[49.5 cm (19.5in)]）approximately [英] [ə’prɔksimitli] adv. 近似地,大约，大概，近乎

horizontal line 水平线[英] [,hɔri’zɔntəl]

(2) Square up to waist level 20.3 cm (8 in). Draw across C to D (Use individual measurement). （（从A、B点）垂直上量20.3 cm (8 in)得C、D点，过C、D点画直线，即腰线。）Square vt. 使成方形

(3) From waist, measure down the crotch level and the outside leg measurement. （向下量出从腰围到立裆水平线的长度和裤长。）

Complete the rectangle, noting waist, hip crotch and hem lines [33 cm (13 in), 101.5cm (40in)]. [1] （完成这个矩形，并标记出腰、臀、立裆和裤边缝线位置（底摆线）。）

rectangle [英] [’rektæŋɡl] 矩形

hem line 底摆线[hem] 布的褶边; 贴边;（衣服等的）褶边;卷边

(4)Mark a central vertical line. （标记中心垂直线。）

vertical line [英] [’və:tikəl] 垂直线

(5) At waist level, mark off 3.8 cm (1.5 in) each side of central line.（离在腰水平中心线左右两边3.8 cm (1.5 in)，各作标记点。）Raise each point 1.3 cm (1/2 in).（然后分别抬高1.3 cm (1/2 in)。）Draw in side-seam curves from raised point down approximately 15.2 cm (6 in). [2] （从此点画出长约15.2 cm (6 in)的侧缝曲线。）

central line [英] [’sentrəl] adj. 中心的

side-seam 侧缝seam [si:m] 缝边、接口处

(6)On right, the front, mark a central point for pleat.（在前片的右边，标记褶裥的中心点。）Mark 2.5 cm (1 in) each side.（每边标记2.5 cm (1 in)）Lower centre front 1.3 cm (1/2 in) at waist, Draw in curved waistline as for skirts.（在腰围的前中心线向下1.3厘米，连接各点画成曲线就是裙子的腰围。）The pleat can be made into a dart and should be shorter than the back dart.（这个褶裥也可以做成一个省道并且应该比后省的省量小。）

Pleat [英] [pli:t] n. (衣服上的)褶、褶裥

centre front 前中心线

dart [da:t] 省

(7) Mark the central point of the back waist.（在后腰线上标记中心点。）The dart size depends on the difference between amount in waist now and amount needed.（省的大小依赖于腰围量和实际需要量的差量。）Measure the front, deducting amount in pleat [18.4 cm (7.25 in)].（测量前片实际腰围尺寸，减去褶量为18.4 cm。）Measure the back [21 cm (8.25 in)].（测量后片实际腰围尺寸为21 cm。）Add together [39.4 cm (15.5 in)].（加起来为39.4 cm。）Deduct half the required waist measure away from this [36.8 cm (14.5 in)]. （用这个尺寸减去腰围规格尺寸的一半。）The difference is approximately 2.5 cm (1 in).（这个差量大约为2.5cm。）This is the necessary dart size.（这就是所要的省量。）

deduct [英] [di’dʌkt] 减去、扣除

amount [英] [ə’maunt] 数量

waist measure 腰围尺寸

(8)Mark a point 15.2 cm (6 in) below waist on central line. （从腰线处，沿中心线向下15.2 cm (6 in)作标记点。）Mark 1.3 cm (1/2in) points each side.（两边各分配1.3 cm (1/2in)）Connect points to form the back waist dart. [3]（连接各点形成后片腰省。）

(9)Cut pattern on a horizontal line from center back to bottom of dart, and from waist down left dart line to same point without cutting through.（从后中线到省的底端剪开一条水平线，同时剪开左省线到省底端点，不要剪断。）To reduce the dart and create a sloping back seam, move left dart line over to central dart line (Fig. 5.2). Tape down. [4] （减少省量并做出一个斜后缝线，移动左省线到中心线。并用胶带纸固定好。）

sloping [英] [ˈsləupiŋ] adj. 倾斜的

(10)Draw in the back curved waistline.（绘制后片腰围曲线。）Following (Fig. 5.2) extend E 10.2 cm (4 in), F7.6cm (3 in), A 2.5 cm (1 in), and B 1.3 cm (1/2 in). （从E、F、A和B点分别向外延长10.2 cm (4 in)、7.6cm (3 in)、2.5 cm (1 in)和1.3 cm (1/2 in。）The crotch curves are drawn through these points.（连接这些点就得到了立裆曲线。）They are average measurements and should be adjusted to the individual.（它们是平均尺寸，应根据个人进行调整。）Corrections can be made to create the same body shape as the individual.（经过调整的尺寸可以用于相同体型人的裤子设计。）