20 世纪上半叶中国服装造型结构变化的文化探析

高等学校教师硕士学位论文

（2009届）

20世纪上半叶中国服装造型结构变化的

文化探析

The Cultural Analysis for the Structure Designing Changes of Chinese Garment in the First Half of

the Twentieth Century

研究生姓名孙志芹

指导教师姓名诸葛铠（教授）

专业学位名称设计艺术学

研究方向服装设计理论研究

论文提交日期2009年9月

20世纪上半叶中国服装造型结构变化的文化探析

中 文 摘 要

20世纪上半叶是中华民族多灾多难、战乱频然、内忧外患的时期。

从服饰的造型结构观之，其中发生了深刻的、根本区别于传统服饰的变化。一方面，这种变化来源于时代大势，服饰文化不得不在西方现代文明的冲击下作出被迫的改变，同时，客观上造就了我国服饰近代化发展的历程；另外，服饰造型结构的变化又在强大的传统势力的牵制下，也不得不在新旧、中外的冲突中进行艰难的折衷和妥协，中国化的元素还是得以少量的保留。其表现在：服装造型由长而宽向短而合体发展，逐渐体现人体轮廓，彰显曲线美；服装结构线条由平直的直线裁逐渐向曲线裁剪过度，裁剪方式也由整片裁剪发展到分片裁剪；服装加工工艺由手工缝制逐渐过渡为机器缝制，传统镶、嵌、滚、绣等手工装饰工艺的运用逐渐趋于简洁。

从文化角度加以审视，这种服饰结构上的变化与时代风云密切对映：20世纪上半叶我国政治制度的频繁更迭、社会思潮的风起云涌、民风民俗的改容换貌等因素，都是服装结构变化的深层次动因。论文从制度上——政权多次更替，传统“衣冠之治”解体；思想上——民权思想新生，服饰样式西化；民风上——改容换貌日盛，服装文化多元三个方面进行了解析。

关键词：20世纪；服装；造型结构；文化因素

作者：孙志芹

指导教师：诸葛铠

The Cultural Analysis for the Structure Designing Changes of Chinese Garment in the First Half of the

Twentieth Century

Abstract

The first half of the twentieth century is a period that Chinese nation experienced much disaster. From the structure designing of the garment, the profound and basic changes that different from the traditional can be seen clearly. On the one hand, these changes come from the trend of era. Western modern civilization forced it to change. Objectively, the modernization development of our country is brought up at the same time. On the other hand, because of the traditional constraint that made the structure designing of the garment compromise with new and old, Chinese and foreign, but a little Chinese characteristics elements also be preserved. These reflects are as follows: garment shape’s development is form long and wide to short and fit, human outline can be seen more and more clearly and that made the curve beauty expression; garment structure lines’ variation is from straight to curve and cutting pattern’s variation is from full wafer to slicing; garment process’s sewing is from hand to machine, traditional manual sewing technology such as beset, embedded, rolling, embroidery and so on are more and more concise.

From the cultural perspective of the garment, it can be seen that the variation of the structure designing is corresponding to the age situation closely. The elements of the regime change of politics in the first half of the twentieth century, the social thoughts’ emergence, folk customs’ change, etc are the reason for it. This paper’s analysis focus on three aspects: First, in the perspective of system, the disintegration of the traditional garment model is discussed; Second, in the perspective of ideological, the westernization of garment style is discussed; Last, in the perspective of folk customs, the diversification of garment culture is also discussed.

Key words: Twentieth century; Garment: Structure designing; Cultural elements

Written by Sunzhiqin

Supervised by zhugekai